Entries tagged with “Rust en Vrede”.
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Mon 7 Dec 2009
One of South Africa’s Top 10 restaurants, Rust en Vrede, did a special dad’s 94th birthday celebration proud on a weekday night 2 weeks ago, just four days after it was announced as 3rd place winner on the Top 10 list, as winner of the Service Excellence Award in the Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, and a week after it was named the best Restaurant in the winelands in the world, by the Great Wine Capitals Network.
A terrible drive due to after-hours roadworks near the airport made the journey from Cape Town doubly long. The arrival at the wine estate wiped away the frustration, it being dark already, and the lighting romantically showing off ancient oak trees and a beautiful garden.
A staff member stood outside the door to welcome us, and we were taken to the rest of the party, having a drink on the terrace outside. Our table for 6 was set apart from the rest of the restaurant, in its own alcove, two sides filled with wines on glass shelves. This gave a feeling of privacy, yet one felt to be part of the restaurant.
The menu and winelist covers were one of the few aspects to criticise, looking like plastic “mock-croc”. The menu is informative, with a foreword by Jean Engelbrecht, the owner of the wine estate, David Higgs the chef, and Neil Grant, the sommelier. The menu is simple - one has two choices - 4 courses at R 400, or 6 courses at R 550 without paired wine, or R 800 with wine paired per course. The only catch is that all persons in the party must have either the 4- or 6-course meal.
As the 4-course meal allows one an option of three choices per course, our party chose this option. A first course choice offered was a scallop “gazpacho” that was not a soup at all, foie gras and cherries, and sweet onion soup. The second course choice consisted of a salmon trout, organic chicken, and fennel and creme fraiche risotto. The third course offered tuna, loin of lamb and springbok. The 4 th course choice was between goat’s cheese and melon, strawberry and nut parfait with marzipan, and baked apple and pastry with cream cheese ice cream.
The 6-course meal starts with tuna, followed by scallop, rabbit, Chalmar beef, Tetede Moine and ends with Chocolate Marquis. No options are provided within each of the 6 courses.
The menu also contains the supplier information, looking a little like an add-on to the otherwise slick menu. Beef and venison come from the estate’s Kalahari farm, herbs come from the estate’s herb garden, Magic Steve supplies the vegetables, The Wild Peacock supplies ingredients, duck and rabbit, Neil Jewel the chacuteries, and Wayne Rademeyer from Wellington the Buffalo Mozzarella. Reubens is the only other known restaurant which states its suppliers in its menus.
The meal was preceded by an amuse bouche of scallop. As each dish is brought to the table per course, the waitress reminds one of the choice one ordered, pointing out what is on the plate. She explained everything so well and efficiently, that everything seemed to taste even better.
The winelist reflects about 270 wines on 28 pages, and a neat index at the start of the winelist categorises the wines on offer, and an easy reference to the page. An oddity is the fact that only Champagne is served, and that South African Cap Classiques are not available. This is justified in the menu on the grounds of David and Neil being fanatical about the Champagne region in France! The winelist has 24 Champagnes, ranging from R 500 for a Mailly to R 1 800 for a Laurent Perrier. Wines by the glass are available, at R 30 for a Cederberg Chenin Blanc to R 50 for a Fryer’s Cove.
Similar to The Big Easy, a Portfolio of Wines is referred to in the winelist, and all wines from Rust en Vrede, Cirrus, Guardian Peak, Ernie Els, and Engelbrecht Els are listed separately in the winelist. The Rust en Vrede wine offering is extensive, and a separate price is quoted for each vintage. So, for example, the Rust en Vrede Merlot ranges from R 200 for a 2008 to R 900 for a 1989, the shiraz from R 230 for a 2006 to R 750 for the 1992, and R 95 for a Cab blend. Other wine brands are offered as well, and the Meerlust Rubicon costs R 350, and the Schalk Burger costs R 700. A Pol Roger bubbly was followed by the Rust en Vrede Shiraz, and was decanted by Neil. So professional is the wine team that when a second bottle of the same Rust en Vrede Shiraz was opened, a new round of Riedel glasses was brought to the table.
The spacing of the serving of the four courses was just right - not too slow nor too fast, and one lost track of time, not necessarily a good thing on a weekday evening! Service is unobtrusive, polite, reserved, and no proactive conversation is made - all communication relates purely to the meal and the drinks. An interesting but professional looking touch is the pouring of the bottled water with a cloth, to prevent the bubbles from wetting the guest or the tablecloth. This has not been seen anywhere else ever.
Unusual too is the multi-gender bathrooms - one does not expect to see a gentlemen coming through the door! Molton Brown bathroom products are available, being of a very good quality.
What was missed relative to a visit a year ago was David Higg’s regular visits to the table, after each course, to check on the guests’ satisfaction with and feedback about each course. David appeared more hands-on in the open-plan kitchen than a year ago, and would not have had the time to do so. He did come to chat after the meal, and impresses with his modesty, charm and gentleness. Even more commendable is the pride and dedication to his restaurant - if he should be ill, or is travelling, he closes the restaurant, he said. He will not allow it to operate without him being present. This places a huge burden on him in the five nights a week that the restaurant is open, but ensures consistent service - David Higgs probably is the only chef in the country to take his craft and reputation so seriously.
A small irritation, which Rust en Vrede shares with almost every restaurant in the country, is a bad habit of staff stretching past one from the left to place a knife or spoon on one’s right. This was the only aspect of the service that can be faulted. The music is nondescript and irritating, and sounds too canned - it is not well-matched to the decor, and quality of the food and wine, and does not add to the ambiance. Smoking is strictly forbidden on the estate, but an exception is made for cigar smoking when one is outside with no one else present, the cigars are for sale on the menu!
The 4-course meal for 6, a bottle of Pol Roger champagne, 2 bottles of Rust en Vrede Shiraz, some pre-dinner drinks, cigars as well as the mandatory 10 % service charge for a table of 6 came to R 4 700. The birthday boy received a tiny chocolate cake to take home, and each guest receives a roll wrapped up as a “gift”, an oddity, as rolls are not served with the meal, when one leaves.
Rust en Vrede is open from Tuesday to Saturday evenings. During the day one can enjoy only one dish - steak and chips - for lunch. Bookings are not taken for lunch. Tel 021 881 3881, www.rustenvrede.com.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Buffalo Mozarello, Champagne, chef, Cirus, David Higgs, Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, Engelbrecht Els, Ernie Els, Gat Wine Capitals of the World, Guardian Peak, Jean Engelbrecht, kalahari. Wayne Rademeyer, Laurent Perrier, Magic Steve, Meerlust Rubicon, Morton Brown, Neil Grant, Neil Jewel, Pol Roger, restaurant, Reubens, Rust en Vrede, Schalk Burger, sommelier, The Big Easy, The Wild Peacock, wine estate
Mon 30 Nov 2009
The 2010 Eat Out magazine lists five pages of “10 of the best….” restaurants, many of these not being on the top 10 restaurant list.
The best restaurant sommelier list includes The Atlantic Grill, Azure, Catharina’s, Delaire Graff (interesting that the restaurant is included, only being 6 months old), Hartford House, Jardine, Ritrovo, Roots, Rust en Vrede and Signal.
The 10 best cheese platters are to be found, amongst others, at Caveau, Cotage Fromage, Hartford House, Mosaic, The Saxony and Zacharay’s.
The 10 best bathroom list includes Catharina’s, Grand Provence, maze, and Roots. Missing from this list, it is believed, is the bathrooms of Delaire Graff, the cleanest and best smelling cloakrooms ever experienced.
Best value for money restaurants include Bellini’s, Sinn’s, Societi Bistro, and Pronto.
Some of the best bread boards are to be found at Cape Atlantic at the Table Bay Hotel, The Food Barn, Ile de Pain, Jardine, Manna, maze, Reuben’s, and The Saxon.
The top desserts are the Grand Marnier souffle at The Green House, the ginger and pistachio cake at La Petite Ferme, the chocolate mousse at Overture, and the strawberry vacherin at Terroir.
The best service comes from Rust en Vrede, Auberge Michel, Aubergine, Grande Provence, Cape Colony, Fyndraai, Mosaic, and Roots, amongst others.
The best tea and cake are served at the Mount Nelson, Cape Grace, Myatt, The Cellars Hohenhort, The Saxon, The Westcliff, The Twelve Apostles and the Vista Bar.
The restaurants with the best view include Buitenverwachting, Delaire Graff, Dieu Donne, Harbour House, La Vierge, Overture, Salt, and Tokara.
The best coffees are served at Doppio Zero, Miss K, and Ritrovo. The best winelists and cellars include the following restaurants: Buitenverwachting, The Greenhouse, Linger Longer, maze, Mosaic, Ritrovo, Roots, Sands at The Plettenberg, and Zachary’s.
The “restaurants that buzz” include Caveau, Olympia Cafe’ and Pronto.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Auberge Michel, Aubergine, Azure, Bellini's, Buitenverwachting, Cape Atlantic, Cape Colony, Cape Grace, Catharina's, Caveau, Chris von Ulmenstein, Cotage Fromage, Delaire Graff, Eat Out 2010, Fyndraai, Grande Provence, Hartford House, Ile de Pain, Jardine, La Petite Ferme, Linger Longer, Manna, Maze, Mosaic, Mount Nelson, Myatt, Olympia Cafe, Overture, Plettenberg Bay, Pronto, Reubens, Ritrovo, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Sands, Signal, Sinns, Societi Bistro, sommeliers, Table Bay Hotel, terroir, The Atlantic Grill, The Cellards Hohenhort, the Green House, The Saxon, The Westcliff, Twelve Apostles, Vista Bar, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Zachary's
Mon 23 Nov 2009
The Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list can make, or break, restaurants, and so the tension in the ballroom of the Westin Grand Hotel in Cape Town was high when the top restaurant awards were announced last night.
Eat Out editor Abigail Donnelly indicated that the choice for this year’s Top 10 was very tough, and clarified that a chef owning more than one restaurant (e.g. Reuben Riffel) could be eligible for an award, as could a chef who will spend more time away from his namesake restaurant (George Jardine), at his new Country Restaurant at Jordan winery in Stellenbosch. In recent years a Top 20 list is announced a few months prior to the November highlight, and this year the new players on this list were The Round House in Camps Bay (who bravely stated at their inception that they want to be the best restaurant in Africa, and who are very Big Brother as far as observing their patrons is concerned), the Green House in the Cellars Hohenhort hotel, and Carne.
The scoring for the restaurants was 70 % for the food, 20 % for the service and 10 % for the ambiance. Restaurants had to have operated for a minimum of a year to be considered, the owner and the chef had to show a passion for their business, they had to show a dedication to uplift the industry, they had to show that quality sourcing of their supplies is important, and consistency and excellence had to be their foundation.
The winners of the 2010 Prudential Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards are as follows, in order of rank:
1. La Colombe in Constantia
2. Restaurant Mosaic in Pretoria
3. Rust en Vrede Restaurant in Stellenbosch
4. Terroir in Stellenbosch
5. The Roundhouse in Camps Bay
6. The Restaurant at Grande Provence in Franschhoek
7. The Green House at the Cellars in Constantia
8. Roots in Johannesburg
9. 9th Avenue Bistro in Durban
10. Overture in Stellenbosch and the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek.
The tension, excitement and shock was felt by all when the winners were announced. The first surprise of the evening was that Abigail Donnelly, the editor of Eat Out magazine, had created two new Award categories, in which only she had a say in the winners. The Best Country Kitchen Award went to a perennial favourite - Marianna’s in Stanford - while, very surprisingly, the other new category was Best Bistro, which was won by Bizerca Bistro in Cape Town, a top 20 Award finalist. This made it clear that Bizerca would not make the Top 10 Eat Out Awards list for 2010. Many heads were shaking, and it sounded as if Bizerca had won a consolation prize.
The next shock was that the 10th place winner was a jointly placed Overture and the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, once again sounding as if the judges could not decide which of the two restaurants to drop into 11th position, making both these restaurants joint 10th winners, and thus creating an Eat Out Top 11 Restaurants Awards this year! The list also created a stir in that Jardine fell out of the top list completely (from number 2 last year), as did Hartford House. La Colombe, 9th Avenue Bistro, Mosaic, Terroir, The Tasting Room, Roots and Overture were all on the Top 10 restaurant list last year. Restaurants that were on the Top 20 list, but which did not make the Top 10 list, are Reubens, Carne, Aubergine, Bread and Wine, The Food Barn, Hartford House, Zachary’s, Bizerca Bistro and Jardine.
Chantel Dartnall of Mosaic won the Chef of the Year award. Rust en Vrede won the Service Excellence award.
Cape Town and the Winelands retain their reputation as the gourmet centre of South Africa, three awards going to Cape Town and Stellenbosch restaurants each, and two to Franschhoek restaurants.
The 5-star Westin Grand Hotel disappointed hugely as the venue hosting an awards evening recognising the best of gourmet cooking and service in South Africa. Its standards have dropped significantly compared to the slick function a year ago. Luke warm waters and white wines were served, the service staff were initially unable to cope, and the airconditioning did not operate at an acceptable level.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio : www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 9th Avenue, Abigail Donnelly, Aubergine, Best Bistro, Best Country Kitchen, Bizerca Bistro, Bread and Wine, Cape Town, Carne, Cellars-Hohenhort Hotel, Chantel Dartnall, Chef of the Year, Chris von Ulmenstein, Country Restaurant at Jordan winery, Franschhoek, George Jardine, Gourmet, Hartford House, La Colombe, Mariana's, Overture, Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant awards, Restaurant Mosiac, restaurants, Reuben Riffel, Reubens, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Service Excellence Award, Stellenbosch, terroir, The Food Barn, the Green House, The Restaurant at Grande Provence, The Roundhouse, The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, Westin Grand Hotel, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Winelands, Zachary's
Tue 10 Nov 2009
The 2010 edition of Rossouw’s Restaurants, an independent restaurant guide that judges restaurants informally from 1 - 3 stars, has just been launched. It includes a few surprises in its inclusions, and more importantly exclusions, in its 3-star top restaurant list, coming just 13 days before the announcement of the 2010 Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards.
The biggest shock is the exclusion of Le Quartier Francais’ Tasting Room in the 3-star restaurant category, but is designated as “bubbling under” by the author JP Rossouw. Other “bubbling under” restaurants include Terroir, a long-standing Eat Out Top 10 restaurant, new restaurant The Roundhouse (on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist), Belthazar in the V&A Waterfront, The Greenhouse at the Cellars Hohenhort (on the top 20 shortlist for the Eat Out Top 10), and Mosaic (on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist).
In total 14 restaurants have been awarded 3-stars by Rossouw, of which 8 are in the Cape Town and Winelands areas: Aubergine, Bizerca, Jardine, Joostenberg Bistro (a surprise!), La Colombe, Overture, Reuben’s, and Rust en Vrede. (All of these restaurants, with the exception of the Joostenberg Bistro, are on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist). The remaining 3-star winners are Ile de Pain and Zachary’s in Knysna (the latter is Eat Out Top 10 shortlisted), Mariana’s in Stanford, Ritrovo in Pretoria and The Butcher Shop & Grill and Thomas Maxwell Bistro in Johannesburg.
Rossouw defines a 3-star restaurant as one that “shines in its price point and offers a truly special food experience…. it’s the all-round feeling of pleasure that’s created by a lovely space, warm hospitality, good service, and crackerjack food. Track record is also important : three star restaurants should consistently deliver on their promise”.
Rossouw has dropped the controversial 2009 3-star Magica Roma from the 3-star list in his latest guide, for which he received much criticism. Comments left on Rossouw’s website are critical of his treatment of Le Quartier Francais, given that it is a Top 50 restaurant in the world, but Rossouw was prepared for the question: “The Tasting Room’s move from three stars in 2009 to two stars in 2010 was not a decision easily made, but it was certainly not influenced by what other reviews/guides/Top 50’s say”. Rossouw adds that he is guided by customer reviews he receives, but the final score is his. See full details here.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portoflio http://www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Aubergine, Belthazar, Bizerca, Cape Town, cellars Hohenhort, Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, Ile de Pain, Jardine, Joostenberg Bistro, JP Rossouw, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Magica Roma, Mariana's, Mosaic, Overture, Reubens, Ritrovo, Rosouw's Restaurants 2010, Rust en Vrede, Tasting Room, terroir, The Butcher Shop & Grill, The Greenhouse, The Roundhouse, Thomas Maxwell Bistro, Top 50 restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Winelands, Zachary's
Thu 29 Oct 2009
This week marks the official launch of two competing but neighbouring restaurants in the new Cape Quarter extension on Somerset Road in De Waterkant. Cru Cafe’ (see review here) has been open since the beginning of the month, but celebrated its launch on Tuesday. Vanilla has also opened, and its launch evening is on Friday. In general, these are the two ’serious’ restaurants in this new lifestyle centre, that is set to take off as Capetonians discover its unique combination of high quality shops. Lazari is a restaurant that disappointed on a first visit, with a shrieking pink interior, and the restaurant staff and the patrons being unsure as to which of their two terraces are for smokers and non-smokers! The visible food preparation area when one enters the restaurant is enough to put one off from entering and sitting down!
This week saw the opening of the long-awaited Crepe et Cidre in Franschhoek, near Huguenot Fine Chocolates. It belongs to Robert Maingard, the largest hospitality owner in the village, also owning Le Franschhoek, and Dieu Donne, and he is also set to open a sports bar in the old station building soon. He is opening two further restaurants in Franschhoek, on opposite sides of the main road, when he completes the malls next year, one being on the current Pick ‘n Pay site and the other on the site where the Huguenot Hotel was located. Crepe et Cidre will be run by Gerhard van Staden, previously chef of the Le Franschhoek. The creperie has “imported” Yann Guyonvarch from Brittany in France to train the staff in crepe-making. His true French accent is a delight, but his stay will be a short 2 weeks. Imported French cider is served.
At La Brasserie in Franschhoek, the Friday jazz evenings will start again tomorrow (30 October), and the opening session will be dedicated to the launch of a CD ‘Tribute to Alex van Heerden’, who played with the Cape Dutch Connection, and passed away tragically.
In Hermanus the new Hermanos restaurant has opened in the building in which Joubert restaurant operated before closing down earlier this year, with a new chef and owner Wayne Spencer. He was originally the Executive Chef at Birkenhead House in Hermanus, and at Phinda Game Reserve, and worked at the Michelin-starred Port Palace in Monaco. He says of his new restaurant that it is fine-dining but that it is not intimidating, and he will not place a lot of emphasis on plating the food. He intends to come out of the kitchen, to chat to his guests, which is commendable - too few chefs do so. The menu is small, with 5 starters (R36 - 48), 7 mains (R68 - R 110), and 4 desserts (ranging betwen R 30 - R 40), and sounds interesting. The winelist is more extensive, and is very proudly-Hermanus. The restaurant is open Mondays to Saturdays for dinner only initially, and can be booked at tel 028 313-1916.
The Seafood at The Marine restaurant in Hermanus was a pleasant surprise earlier this week, when the most delicious kingklip was served. The restaurant offers a choice of two courses at R 180 and 3 courses cost R 215. A number of irritations on arrival - struggling to find the booking on the reservation list and a wobbly table - were sorted out when addressed, and the Relais & Chateaux crested butter arrived rock hard, so much so that it was unspreadable. The restaurant has no ambiance, it being too brightly lit and it not having any attempt at a decor focus. But the food cooks, and the hand of Executive Chef Peter Tempelhoff, a previous Eat Out Top Ten chef whilst at Grande Provence, is evident. The biggest surprise was the presentation of three scoops of ice cream on a block of ice, serving a functional as well as an aesthetic role. The whale-shaped biscuit served with the coffee, whilst not new, remains a cute and clever touch. The service is friendly and willing, and a miscommunication between the waiter and the kitchen was quickly rectified. No senior management was visible all evening. The cloakrooms are most disappointing for a five-star hotel, and the owner Liz McGrath would do well to invest some monies in upgrading these at The Marine.
The speculation in a previous WhaleTales blog post that Ginja is to move to New Church Street (between Buitengracht and Kloofnek Roads), into the previous Relish and Nova restaurant space, has been confirmed by the EatOut website. “Executive Chef Chris Erasmus will continue the Ginja legacy with his playful take on gastronomy, abundant with colour, texture and taste - using the finest local produce”, the website says.
Allee Bleue in Franschhoek is hosting its first Sushi and wine-pairing evening on Friday 6 November, at R 195, with a miso soup and tempura prawn starter, and five main sushi courses, each paired with a different Allee Bleue wine. The dessert is a green tea brulee. Chef Dane Newton, previously at Chamonix, is known in Franschhoek for his sushi. In addition to Allee Bleue’s Bistro, the new Winetasting Courtyard 5-item menu, and the scrumptious picnic baskets, a small beer garden menu is also available to be enjoyed with the Paulaner draught beer served at the lower end of the estate.
Jordan wine estate is opening its The Restaurant at Jordan on 21 November. The e-mail sent to announce the opening looks amateurish, and is an instant turn-off, as one is asked to commit to the food one would like to eat on that day, and the exact time slot in which one would like to eat it in. Payment must also be done by bank transfer prior to arrival. For a weekend treat, a visit to a wine estate is enjoyed in leisurely fashion, without being so prescriptive! George Jardine of Jardine is the new chef of the country restaurant.
Cafe’ Sofia is boldly advertising its seven branches (Green Point, Camps Bay, Sea Point, Rondebosch, Gardens, Greenside and Blouberg) in a striking half-page advertisement: “Come and experience our new 2010 menu, the best breakfast in town or Happy Hour Cocktails. You may be in for a surprise”. The Happy Hour cocktails are priced at R 25 for cocktails and R 15 for beer on tap between 17h00 - 19h00, while breakfasts range from R 19 - R 29.
It was a food book launch week last week, with“Franschhoek Food”, written by Myrna Robbins, featuring the main chefs of Franschhoek’s restaurants, and some of their favourite restaurant menu recipes, as well as wine pairing suggestions. “South Africa On a Plate” was also launched, a book featuring restaurants that deduct R 5 off the patron’s bill to go toward the Streetsmart charity. A three-course dinner suggestion, with the recipes, is featured for each restaurant. Grande Provence, Cafe’ 1999, Jewel of India, Auberge Michel, Ginga, Haiku, Rust en Vrede, Jardine, La Colombe, Ninth Avenue Bistro, Myoga, Mosaic, Bosman’s, Hartford House, Roots, The Saxon, Ile Maurice, and Terroir are some of the restaurants included in the book. The inspiration for the book comes from Jess Meredith-Watts and his fiance’ Louise, who were touched by beggars on the streets, and felt that they could make a difference, by giving all the profits of the book sales to the Streetsmart charity. More details about the book are available here.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 'Franschhoek Food', 'South Africa on a Plate', Alex van Heerden, Allee Bleue, Auberge Michel, Birkenhead House, Bosmans, Cafe' 1999, Cafe' Sofia, Cape Dutch Connection, Cape Quarter, Chamonix, Chris Erasmus, Chris von Ulmenstein, Crepe et Cidre, creperie, Cru Cafe, Dane Newton, Dieu Donne, Franschhoek, George Jardine, Gerhard van Staden, Ginja, Grande Provence, Haiku, Hartford House, Hermanos, Hermanus, Huguenot Fine Chocolates, Ile Maurice, Jardines, Jess Meredith-Watts, Jewel of India, Jordan wine estate, La Brasserie, La Colombe, LAZARI, Le Franschhoek, Mosaic, Myoga, Myrna Robbins, Ninth Avenue Bistro, Nova, openings, Paulaner, Peter Tempelhoff, Phinda, Pick 'n Pay, Relish, restaurants, Robert Maingard, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Seafood at the Marine, Streetsmart, sushi and wine-pairing, terroir, The Restaurant at Jordan, The Saxon, Vanilla, Wayne Spencer, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Tue 3 Feb 2009
Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein under Wine news
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“Forgive me if I’m excited, but I can’t help it. I want to tell you straight out that South Africa, of all places , is one of the greatest sources for moderately priced cabernet sauvignon on the planet today”. So begins Eric Asimov’s story in praise of this country’s Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the 21 January edition of the New York Times.
Asimov’s verdict resulted from a tasting of 25 South African Cabernet Sauvignon wines, which he generalises as “balanced”, “with a sense of structure and shape”, “with flavours of cassis and violets, cedar and minerals”, “they demonstrated power”, “but also showed finesse”.
Asimov and his tasting panel voted the De Trafford 2004 as the top scorer, followed by the 2004 Rust en Vrede, and the 2003 One Stroke One from Graceland. The remaining top ten Cabernet Sauvignons, as ranked by Asimov, a wine critic not easily pleased, were 2004 Bon Cap, 2004 Thelema, 2004 Neil Ellis, 2004 Bilton, 2005 Waterford, 2005 Alto, and 2005 Stark-Conde Jonkershoek Valley Twin Peak. All but the Bon Cap are from Stellenbosch.
Asimov was less kind to Boekenhoutskloof : ” …the 2006 Boekenhoutskloof cabernet from the Franschhoek region was, at $ 47, the most expensive wine in our tasting. While the winemaker is critically acclaimed, we rejected the wine for its generic vanilla-cherry cheesecake flavours, which I often taste in New World red wines that are intended to please an international audience.”
Wines of South Africa (WOSA) are delighted with the article, and say that it should have a strong impact on marketing South Africa’s relatively unknown wines in the USA.
Asimov is somewhat sceptical about the future of South Africa’s wines. “Yet the track record is slim. We don’t know yet how these wines will age. Many of these producers are too new to have shown consistency over time.” Yet, he says that “South Africa has the potential for greatness. In the snapshot offered by these 25 bottles, we found a region offering wonderful values and lovely wines.”
Tags: Alto, Bilton, Boekenhoutskloof, Bon Cap, cabernet sauvignon, De Trafford, Eric Asimov, Franschhoek, Graceland, Neil Ellis, New World, New York Times, One Stroke One, Rust en Vrede, South African wines, Stark Conde Jonkershoek Valley Twin Peak, Stellenbosch, Thelema, Waterford, Wines of South Africa, WOSA
Mon 1 Dec 2008
Three Stellenbosch restaurants have made the 2009 Prudential Eat Out Top Ten restaurant list, being Overture, Rust en Vrede and Terroir. The first two restaurants are new entrants to the top ten list.
The Stellenbosch success is at the expense of Franschhoek, which retains only one restaurant on the top ten list, being the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, slipping from top position last year to 7th place this year. Franschhoek’s Grand Provence and Bread & Wine, on the top ten list last year, fell off the top list, with the former falling off the top twenty list. Reubens did not manage to make the top ten list, but was on the top 20 list.
Competition for the top ten list was tough, with many new restaurants making the top twenty list, from which the top ten restaurants were selected. The winners, in order, are as follows: La Colombe, Jardine, Terroir, Overture, Restaurant Mosaic at The Orient in Pretoria, Rust en Vrede, The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, Roots at Forum Homini, Bizerca and Hartford House. La Colombe was selected as Restaurant of the Year and its chef Luke Dale-Roberts the Chef of the Year. Terroir won the Service Award, while the Lifetime Achievement Award was made posthumously to Frank Swainston, who was at Constantia Uitsig until his death earlier this year.
Notable upsets were the exclusion from the list of The Showroom and Aubergine. Ginja was a top ten winner last year, but did not even make the top twenty list this year.
The judges selected the top restaurants on the basis of operating for a year or more, the chefs demonstrating a passion for their business, showing a dedication to uplifting the industry, where chefs source their ingredients, and consistence and excellence in all aspects of their business. Food quality counted for 70 points, service for 20 and ambience for 10 in judging the top restaurants.
Seven top restaurants are in the Western Cape, of which three in Cape Town, three in Stellenbosch and one in Franschhoek.
Bertus Basson, award-winning chef at Overture, opens Genot on Kleingenot in Franschhoek today.
Tags: Aubergine, Bertus Basson, Bizerca, Bread & Win e, Constantia Uitsig, Franschhoek, Genot, Ginja, Grande Provence, Hartford Hosue, Jardine, Klein Genot, La Colombe, Luke Dale-Roberts, Overture, Prudential Eat Out Awards, Restaurant Mosaic at The Orient, Reubens, Roots at Forum Homini, Rust en Vrede, Stellenbosch, Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, terroir, The Showroom
Sat 11 Oct 2008
Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein under Cape Town, Restaurant news
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The Top 20 restaurant nominees have been selected by Eat Out, and the Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list will be announced on 30 November.
Eight of the top 20 restaurants are new to the top list, and will pose an interesting challenge to the long-established restaurants. New restaurants include the excellent Overture restaurant with chef Bertus Basson on the Hidden Valley wine estate outside Stellenbosch, Rust en Vrede with chef David Higgs just down the road from Overture, and Myoga at the Vineyard Hotel, run by Richard Carstens and sister restaurant to Ginja, which has been on the Top 10 list forever, but has not made the new top 20 list this year.
Franschhoek has three restaurants on the Top 20 list (Reubens, the Le Quartier Francais Tasting Room, and Bread & Wine), as does Stellenbosch (Terroir, Overture, and Rust en Vrede). Cape Town leads the pack with seven restaurants: Aubergine, Bizerca, Food Barn, Jardine, La Colombe, The Showroom, and Myoga. Three Johannesburg restaurants are on the list (Linger Longer, Saxon, and Roots), as are Mosaic in Pretoria and Zachary’s in Knysna. Kwa-Zulu Natal has two finalists, being Hartford House and 9th Avenue Bistro.
Grand Provence in Franschhoek is another existing Top Ten restaurant that has not made it back on to the top restaurant list, possibly because of the tremendous jump in its prices ( its two-course meal cost R 190 last summer, and now costs R 250)! Haiku, and Bosmans at Grande Roche, are notable omissions from the top 20 list.
Le Quartier Francais is said to be losing its chef Chris Erasmus, who is to open his own restaurant in Cape Town.
Eat In has announced its RMB Private Bank South African Produce Award winners, and include Buffalo Ridge’s Mozzarella di Bufala, Trevor Daly’s wood-fired ciabatta, Paddock meats, Earth Apples’ gourmet potatoes, Quality Pickles, Jardine Bakery, Dalewood Fromage Huguenot, Bags of Bites sugar-free choc chip and macadamia biscuits, Fruits of the Karoo Aloe Juices, Kitchen Garden Sprouts, Wegkraakbosch Farm and Dairy, and Main Ingredient.
Tags: Aubergine, Bertus Basson, Bizerca, Bosmans, Bread & Wine, David Higgs, Eat In, Eat Out, Food, Food Barn, Franschhoek, Ginja, Grande Provence, Grande Roche, Haiku, Jardine, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais Tasting Room, Myoga, Overture, restaurants, Reubens, Richard Carstens, Rust en Vrede, Stellenbosch, The Showroom