Entries tagged with “Richard Bosman”.
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Wednesday 26th February 2014 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
I last visited Creation more than two years ago, when I wrote a story about the Hermanus Wine Route, which had been launched in 2011. Since then a number of changes have taken place, new chef Warwick Taylor offering even more heavenly food to match the heavenly Creation wines, living up to promise made in the Tasting Menu heading: ‘Original, distinctive flavours. Exceptional, harmonious matches’!
The road to travel to Creation was never in great condition, having been a gravel road 7 km before the entrance to the wine estate. They were very excited when the Western Cape province announced the tarring of the road to Caledon, and 3 km of the untarred section had been tarred when the construction contractor went bankrupt, a huge frustration for Creation. A number of months have gone by while the province appointed a new contractor, and work has finally commenced again, it taking ten months for the road to be completed, owner JC Martin estimated. The road currently is in a worse condition than it was on our last visit, in terms of its surface, with more accidents on the road, and having a stop/go system in place. Co-owner Carolyn Martin said she is placing pressure on the Western Cape Minister of Transport and Public Works Robin Carlisle to get things moving. Creation will have to possibly change its entrance once the tarring is complete. Despite the poor condition of the road, it was a surprise to see the car park at Creation completely full, Carolyn’s marketing of their wines and the Tasting Room being so excellent that tourists as well as Johannesburg and Pretoria locals come anyway.
I thought I had arrived without being recognised, but Carolyn had seen me (I was sitting with my back to the desk) and she called JC to come and say hello. JC was busy in the cellar with the preparation for the start of the harvest the following day, but made time to chat, reflecting how good they are in connecting with their customers (we stock their Whale Pod range) and visitors. JC said that the harvest is only 3 – 4 days later than last year after the wet winter, and that they have some botrytis, which his staff is picking out. He expected the harvest to take a little longer this year, being 3 – 4 weeks, depending on the weather. He shook his head, almost in disbelief, (more…)
Saturday 20th July 2013 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
We had heard good things about the Four & Twenty Café & Pantry, which opened in Wynberg’s trendy Wolfe Street two months ago, and popped in for a cappuccino and pastries three weeks ago. From outside, the Café & Pantry looks impressive, a large space which has the Café in the front section, and the Pantry as well as coffee shop seating in the back section. It is a cute Café and Pantry with character and energy.
The origin of the Café & Pantry is an interesting story. Tracy-Leigh Genricks studied at Silwood School of Cookery, and stayed on as a lecturer when she had completed her course. One of her students was Marijke Duminy (right), who had previously studied law at UCT. They became firm friends, which they could not reveal whilst in the student/lecturer relationship, but decided to open a restaurant, Marijke having done her internship at La Colombe as part of her studies. To prepare for this, the two 24 years old Cordon Bleu trained chefs went on a one month ‘eating fest’ in France. When getting to the Eiffel Tower, with a handful of macaroons, they knew that the restaurant had to have a French theme, as they loved the French obsession with food. They do not only serve French style food, serving Asian and Spanish foods too. Returning to Cape Town they had to wait for the right spot to make their dream come true. The name for the Café & Deli came from their age at the time of making the decision to open the restaurant, from 24 hours in a day, and from a line in their favourite childhood rhyme ‘Sing a Song of Sixpence’: ‘Four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie‘. (more…)
Wednesday 22nd February 2012 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
Capetonians are still reeling from the news that the country’s and our city’s largest restaurant, Paulaner Bräuhaus, closed down on Sunday evening, after ten years of operating in the V & A Waterfront. Our blogpost about this closure has received more than 1000 unique views in the past 48 hours, an unheard of high readership demonstrating the interest in this story. Kloof Street appears to be experiencing a particularly bad series of restaurant closures, the street having the most restaurants in Cape Town. Our list of latest restaurant openings and closures will be updated continuously, as we receive information.
* Clarke’s Bar and Dining Room has opened on Bree Street, as an American-style diner, owned by Lyndall Maunder, ex-Superette
* Chez Chez Espresso and Cheesecake Bar has closed down off Kloof Street, Tamboerskloof.
* The Black Pearl (ex-Seven Sins) on Kloof Street has closed down
* Andy Fenner (JamieWho?) and friends have opened Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants in Metal Lane, 8 Kloof Street, opposite McDonald’s. They are stocking Farmer Angus McIntosh’s beef, Richard Bosman’s pork, and eggs and chicken from Simply Wholesome. A barista will make coffee, and Jason will bake special chorizo muffins and bacon brioche for them.
* Neil Grant, ex-sommelier of Rust en Vrede, has opened Burrata, a new restaurant in the Old Biscuit Mill
* Societi Brasserie has opened in Constantia
* Luke Dale-Roberts, Eat Out Top Chef, has opened the Pot Luck Club, a Tapas Bar next to The Test Kitchen (photograph above). He will also open a real Test Kitchen, a private experimental place to develop new recipes
* The Bungalow has opened as a 400-seater restaurant where La Med used to be, part of the Kovensky Group, also owning Pepenero, Paranga, The Kove and Zenzero.
* La Belle Café & Bakery has opened in the Alphen Boutique Hotel.
* 5 Rooms Restaurant has opened at the Alphen Boutique Hotel
* Gypsy Café has opened in Observatory
* Kuzina in the Cape Quarter has been sold, and is now called Rocca.
* Sabrina’s, which opened about two months ago where Depasco was, at the corner of Kloof and Long Street, has closed down
* Arts Café has opened at Artscape.
* Chef Craig Paterson has started as Executive Chef at Dash (Queen Victoria Hotel), the V&A Hotel, and Dock House
* Caveau at the Josephine Mill has closed down
* Café Sofia in Green Point has become Slainte
* Knead has opened a large outlet in Lifestyle on Kloof, Gardens
* Mitico has opened a pizzeria and ’spaghetteria’ on Kloof Street, where St Elmo’s used to be
* Mamma Mia in Steenberg has closed down
* Don Pedro’s in Woodstock has re-opened, under Madame Zingara management
* Madame Zingara is said to be re-opening in its original building on Loop Street
* Tong Lok on Kloof Street has closed down.
* Mason on Kloof Street has closed down (to become a Slug & Lettuce)
* Buzz on Kloof Street has closed down
* Myög has opened as a frozen yoghurt outlet, at 103 Kloof Street
* Thai Café has opened in the old Cape Quarter
* Paulaner Bräuhaus in the V&A Waterfront has closed down!
* The Fez is closing down.
* Giorgio Nava’s Down South Food Bar has closed down
* Fat Back Soul has been renamed South China Dim Sum Bar
* On a Roll has opened in Mowbray as a gourmet hot dog restaurant
* The Dog’s Bollocks has opened as a burger pop-up restaurant
* Saints Burger Joint has opened on Kloof Street
* Cape Bubble Tea, which recently opened in Camps Bay, has closed down
* Dear Me has opened its Pantry
* Chef Jannie Melis has left French Toast
* Jackal & Hide has opened on Kloof Street
* Eat on Breda Street has closed down
* Graham Beck’s Gorgeous bubbly bar has opened at Catharina’s at Steenberg, with Jenna Adams as the Manager.
* Operator Pamela Trevelyan and Chef Lana Doyle have left Sunbird Bistro in Camps Bay.
* Col’Cacchio is opening new outlets in Claremont and Westlake
* Chef Daniel Botha, who started at Salt restaurant at the Ambassador Hotel in November, has left. Dale Thebus is the new head chef.
* Vaudeville has closed down
* Shin Tai Asian Kitchen is opening on Regent Road in Sea Point
* Bistro 1682 Manager Juergen Welp has left, and has been replaced by Marc Cowen. Assistant Manager Jenna Adams has moved over to Catharina’s to run Gorgeous by Graham Beck. New assistant managers are Cable Ermstrom and Hilton Klassen.
* A new Vida é Caffe is opening on Prestwich Street in April, and a cupcake shop is said to be opening around the corner, on Ebenezer Street, next to T & Co/Table 13, in Green Point
* GM Nigel Pace has left the Cape Grace Hotel
* Il Cappero will moving from Barrack Street to Fairway Street in Camps Bay, opening in May.
* Saints on 84 Kloof has opened on Kloof Street
* Sushibox has opened at Newlands Village
* Richard’s Supper Stage & Bistro has opened on Main/Glengariff Roads in Sea Point, as a dinner theatre (from May), and restaurant, owned by Richard Loring and Roland Seidel
* ‘I ♥ my Laundry‘ laundry restaurant has opened on Buitengracht Street
* West Street Café has opened in the new Woodstock Foundry, owned by Chef Alan West
* Orphanage has opened as a cocktail and tapas emporium on Bree Street
* Valora on Loop Street has closed down
* ACT Restaurant and Play Bar at the Baxter Theatre closed down overnight on the last March weekend, without paying its rent for the past three months.
* Philip Arno Botes is the new Chef at Pure Restaurant at Hout Bay Manor.
* Take & Bake German Bakery has closed down on Main Road Sea Point
* Maz Sushi has closed down on Main Road Sea Point
* Planet Green Salad Bar has opened on Kloof Street
* Burrata will introduce a new 3-course food and wine pairing menu before the end of April.
* Vanilla in the Cape Quarter has closed down.
* Chef Bruce Robertson has opened Bruce’s Beach House for lunches, in Scarborough
* Cake designer Martin Senekal has closed Cafeteria in De Waterkant, now only selling on order and at the Old Biscuit Mill market
* Madame’s on Napier has opened in De Waterkant
* Moyo is to open where the Paulaner Braühaus was in the V & A Waterfront.
* Sinn has closed down its Deli at Wembley Square
* Table Thirteen is closing down in Green Point and moving to Paarden Eiland at the end of May
* Leopard’s Leap has opened its Tasting room and Liam Tomlin Food Studio and Store outside Franschhoek
* Reuben’s is opening a Franschhoek branch in his self-owned building off the main road, when his Huguenot Road branch lease expires this year
* Dieu Donné in Franschhoek has leased its restaurant to Martin and Marco from Durban, and they have renamed it Roca.
* The sushi restaurant has closed down
* MCC Franschhoek has opened in the Village Square, opposite the church, stocking 34 MCC’s from Franschhoek and serving food as well
* Babel Tea House has opened at Babylonstoren, serving sandwiches, cake and teas.
* Donovan Dreyer from Grande Provence has resigned, and started as Restaurant Manager of Indochine at Delaire Graff. Aldo du Plessis has taken over as Restaurant Manager at Grande Provence.
* The Franschhoek Food Emporium has closed down.
* Bijoux Chocolates has closed down its chocolate manufacture, will continue selling chocolates.
* Chef Bjorn Dingemans has left The Franschhoek Kitchen at Holden Manz, to open up a new restaurant on Lourensford wine estate in spring. Cheyne Morrisby is the new chef at the Franschhoek Kitchen.
* Chef Vanie Padayachee has joined Le Quartier Français
* Chef Darren Roberts is leaving Grande Provence for a new appointment in the Seychelles at the end of April.
* Alton van Biljon has been appointed as Restaurant Manager at Haute Cabriere.
* Cavallo restaurant is said to open on the stud farm on R44, between Stellenbosch and Somerset West, this year or next
* Cupcake on Dorp Street has closed down, and Dorpstraat Deli will open
* De Oude Bank Bakkerij has opened a bar, serving Bartinney wines, and craft beers.
* Bruce von Pressentin has been appointed as Executive Chef at The Restaurant @ Longridge
* David Higgs has resigned as Executive Chef from Radisson Blu Gautrain in Johannesburg (previously with Rust en Vrede), and was said to be headed for his home country Namibia. He starts at The Saxon in Johannesburg in May.
* Slug & Lettuce will open where Beads is on Church Street
* De Huguenot, with its Harry Q Bar and wedding reception facilities, will be auctioned on 14 March.
* Stables at Vergelegen Bistro has opened as a lunch restaurant in Somerset West. Its Lady Phillips Restaurant is being given a make-over by Christo Barnard, and will open in June, with a new name called The Vergelegen Restaurant.
* Warwick wine estate’s new chef is Dane Newton (ex-Chamonix, Cascade Manor).
* Tokara closes for a winter break from 22 April, re-opens on 4 May
* Chef Matthew Gordon has opened Harvest, a new restaurant at Laborie
* The Spice Route Restaurant has opened on the ex-Seidelberg, now belonging to Fairview.
* Simone’s Restaurant has opened in Napier
* Tipples Bar and Grill has opened in Hermanus
* Rivendell Estate and Bistro has opened as a restaurant and winetasting venue on the road between Hermanus and the N2, near the Kleinmond turn-off.
* Grilleri has closed down
* Katarina’s has opened at the Kurland Hotel.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.comTwitter:@WhaleCottage
Monday 12th September 2011 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
I had the most heavenly experience, visiting the little-known and relatively new Hermanus Wine Route with outstanding wine estates located in the beautiful Hemel en Aarde Valley outside Hermanus recently, on a perfect warm winter’s day.
As a guest house owner in Hermanus, I stopped at the Hermanus Tourism Bureau and at the Village Wine Shop, in search of a map of the wine estates in the area. I was most surprised that both stops could only offer me the ’2011 Overberg Wine: Cape South Coast’ booklet, which lists wine estates in the broader Overberg district, including Hermanus. Our experience is that a wine map, such as that of Franschhoek, is a handy way to explore a wine route. I drove to the furthest wine estate on the Hemel en Aarde Road, to start my winetasting journey at Creation, of which I have heard such good things, and then made my way back towards Hermanus. It was at Creation that I received a number of A4 copies of the brand new Hermanus Wine Route map. I did not manage to visit all 17 wine estates, as my stay in Hermanus was cut short due to an emergency which necessitated my return to Cape Town. I have provided contact details, and impressions of the estates which I visited:
* Creation: Dynamic husband-and-wife team Swiss-born JC and Carolyn Martin (daughter of Walter Finlayson) are producing excellent artisanal, terroir-driven wines at the foot of the Babylons Toren mountain range, on 22 ha, 350 meters above sea level, 7 km from the Atlantic Ocean, in conjunction with Swiss winemaker Christoph Kaser. The last 7 km is on gravel road, and the province has promised to prioritise the tarring of this road connecting Caledon and Hermanus. The tasting room staff is headed by Joanne Kuhn, who used to be the Manager of the Hermanus Tourism Bureau. She is a friendly, chatty and informative hostess, supported by Pamela. The tasting room is also the restaurant, with an interesting collection of tables (made from wine crates, and some from floorboards) and Biedermeier chairs, in different colours. I loved the chandelier made from sparkling wine glasses. Works of art (e.g. by Jaco Sieberhagen, Jeanette Unite, Leon Müller) are an interesting part of the tasting room, and are for sale. The view onto the mountain range is amazing, and Joanne told me that it is 80 meters higher than Table Mountain. The wine estate uses Social Media actively, being on Twitter, Facebook, and having a Blog. Its range of wines includes Creation (Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot, Syrah, and Syrah/Grenache), Whale Pod (which we stock in our Honesty Bar), and Shark Alley (created in conjunction with White Shark Projects). Creation is part of the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative, and its A3 information sheet printed on recycled paper says the wine estate stands for ‘Original, distinctive flavours. Exceptional, harmonious matches’. Creation has teamed up with chefs Anli and Andre van Vuuren of Season restaurant in Hermanus, to offer a small menu. A wine pairing menu is offered at R90, consisting of Asian salmon dumpling with aubergine and goat’s milk cheese canneloni, paired with Creation Sauvignon Blanc; spicy chicken and apricot satay is paired with Creation Viognier; cauliflower soup is paired with Creation Merlot; springbok rillete with cherry jelly is paired with Creation Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot blend; chorizo espanadita with duck and sour cherry pie is paired with Creation Syrah; and bobotie spring roll, beef carpaccio, and prune chutney is paired with Creation Syrah/Grenache blend. Should one just wish to taste wines, there is no charge. One can order Creation wines with a meal, at R 20,50 – R 40 per glass, or R79,50 – R159 per bottle. The information sheet details the food suppliers used, including Nouvelle Mushrooms, Chocolates by Tomes, Richard Bosman’s cured meats, Adamskloof olive oil from the same property, and Camphill Bakery. Monday – Saturday 10h00 – 17h00, Sunday 10h00 – 16h00. Tel (028) 212-1107. www.creationwines.com
* Jakob’s Vineyards – Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux blend. ‘Passion, excellence and simplicity’ form the foundation of this wine estate. Located next door to Creation, tastings by appointment only. Tel (028) 371-5686. www.jakobsvineyards.co.za
* Domaine des Dieux – located next door to Creation, tasting by appointment and at La Vierge restaurant. Tel (028) 313-2126. www.domainedesdieux.co.za
* Mount Babylon – SMV (Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier blend). Located next door to Creation, tastings by appointment. Tel 084 511 8180. www.mountbabylon.co.za
* Ataraxia – Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Serenity. Located just before Creation. Wine tasting Monday – Friday 9h00 – 16h00, Saturday 10h00 – 15h30. Tel (028) 212-2007. www.ataraxiawines.co.za
* La Vierge Collection – private cellar, with tasting and sales at La Vierge restaurant, not on same property. La Vierge Noir, Original Sin Sauvignon Blanc, The Last Temptation Riesling, Satyricon Italian blend, Nymphomane Bordeaux blend, Shiraz, and Chardonnay. Tel (028) 313-0130. www.lavierge.co.za
* Spookfontein – Merlot, Phantom Bordeaux blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Wines made using ‘Old-World techniques with New-Age attitude’. Organic and single vineyard wines. Tasting by appointment. Tel 082 265 1071. No website.
* Newton Johnson Vineyards – the only wine estate of those that I visited that was seemingly disinterested in providing information and doing a tasting. I arrived at 15h20, forty minutes before closing time, and I got the feeling that everything was packed away already. There was no wine in the counter, and the tasting room was extremely bare, with only one couch. Lisa, the tasting room lady, told me that due to cash flow problems, that is the only furniture that the winery can afford! First wines were made by Dave Newton Johnson, with sons Bevan and Gordon, in 1997. Natural methods are used in the winemaking, including hand-picking grapes, yeast is not added to the fermentation, using gravity, no chemicals added, with soft extraction, creating wines with a ‘purity of flavour and natural expression’. Newton Johnson Domaine Range (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir), Newton Johnson range (Resonance, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah Mouvedre), and Felicité Range (No Oak Chardonnay, Dry Rosé, Pinot Noir). New Patron Chef Stefan Louw has taken over Heaven Restaurant, with a heavenly setting. Lunches only currently, but will open for dinner in season. Interesting menu, and all starters and main courses have a Newton Johnson wine recommendation. Monday – Friday 9h00 – 16h00, Saturday 10h00 – 14h00. www.newtonjohnson.com
* Sumaridge – Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Maritimus, Merlot Rosé, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Syrah and Epitome. Monday – Sunday 10h00 – 15h00. www.sumaridge.co.za
* Bouchard Finlayson – Peter Finlayson was the first winemaker in this valley. Blanc de Mer, Walker Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Kaaimansgat Limited Chardonnay, Sans Barrique Chardonnay, Hannibal, Galpin Peak Pinot Noir, and Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir. Monday – Friday 9h30 – 17h00, Saturday 9h30 – 12h30. Tel (028) 312-3515 www.bouchardfinlayson.co.za
* Ashbourne – part of the Hamilton Russell collection. Tasting by appointment. Sales via Southern Right. Tel (028) 312-3595. No website.
* Hamilton Russell Vineyards - one of the best-known wine estates in this valley, owned by Anthony Hamilton Russell, and synonymous with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Monday – Friday 9h00 – 17h00, Saturday 9h00 – 13h00. Tel (028) 312-3595. No website.
* Southern Right – also part of Hamilton Russell collection, and co-owned by Mark Wilcox. Stocked by Whale Cottage Honesty Bar. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage. 33000 olive trees on farm. Paintings by Olive Hamilton Russell, with earthy textures created by mixing paint and soil from the farm. Big quartz from farm in the tasting room, representing the quartz in the sandstone soils. Tasting room has brown earthy decor. Very friendly and informative manager Elmarie Pretorius. Sell Southern Right Eucalyptus honey too. Meat and cheese platters available in summer. Monday – Friday 9h00 – 17h00, Saturday 9h00 – 13h00. No website. Tel (028) 312-1318. Independently operated Deli on property, Tuesday – Sunday 9h00 – 15h00.
* Whalehaven – Whalehaven Pinot Noir, Merlot, Old Harbour; The Idiom Collection Idiom Cape, Viognier, Sangiovese, Zinfandel. Monday – Friday 9h00 – 17h00, Saturday and Sunday 10h30 – 16h30. Tel (028) 316-1633. www.whalehaven.co.za
* Hermanuspietersfontein : Located in the Hemel en Aarde Village, the modern wine cellar building is visible as one comes into Hermanus. Well-known venue for its Saturday morning Food & Wine Market with interesting products and Hermanuspietersfontein wines, and for the excellent and creative Afrikaans -dominated marketing of its wines. Probably has the longest wine brand name in the country, being the original name of Hermanus, but frequently abbreviated to HPF. Winemaker Bartho Eksteen is highly regarded for Sauvignon Blanc, and won the 2010 Diners’ Club Winemaker of the Year Award. He only makes wines that he likes, the brochure says! They commit to “produce terroir-driven wines of the highest quality, focusing on Sauvignon Blancs and Rhône and Bordeaux-style blends. We are intent on adding value to the Walker Bay reputation as South Africa’s premium cool climate wine-producing region”. Wine range includes Bloos (‘blush wine’), Sonner Nommer (Sauvignon Blanc), Swartskaap (Cabernet Franc), 1855 Posmeester (Bordeaux-style blend), Kleinboet (Bordeaux-style blend), Nr 3 Sauvignon Blanc, Die Bartho (Sauvignon Blanc blend), Nr. 5 Sauvignon Blanc, Die Arnoldus (Bordeaux-style blend), Nr 7 Sauvignon Blanc, and Die Martha (Rhône-style Shiraz dominant blend). Open Monday – Friday 9h00 – 17h00, Saturday 9h00 – 16h00. Tel (028) 316-1875. www.hpf1855.co.za
* Benguela Cove: Open Monday – Friday 9h30 – 17h00, Saturday 10h00 – 14h00. Tel 087 754 8650. www.benguelacove.co.za
Guest houses in Hermanus would love their guests to spend more than one night in Hermanus, and to come to Hermanus, even when there are no whales (December – April). The Hermanus Wine Route is an ideal way to enhance the tourist experience of Hermanus, in experiencing its excellent quality wines and friendly wine estates. One would like to see far more marketing of the Hermanus Wine Route, helping the tourism industry of Hermanus as well as the wine estates themselves. The Hermanus Wine Route map has an empty back, which could contain valuable information about the wines made by each wine estate, to help one select which wine estates to visit. Information about the restaurants on the estates should also be listed. The opening hours of some of the wine estates should also be extended, to be as uniform as possible on the Wine Route, and to be open as late as possible (some close as early as 2 pm!). The Hermanus Wine Route map should be made available at the Hermanus Tourism Bureau, the Wine Village wine shop, and at guest houses in the area. In the Hermanus Info booklet it is surprising that the first reference to the Hermanus Wine Route (they call it the ‘Wine Wander‘) is two-thirds into the booklet!
Hermanus Wine Route, Hemel en Aarde Valley, Hermanus. Tel (028) 316-2761. www.hermanuswine.com Twitter: @HermanusWine
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com Twitter: @WhaleCottage
Monday 27th June 2011 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
We have written about six issues of Crush! since it was launched a year ago, and the initial excitement of opening a new copy of the digital food and wine magazine edited by Michael Olivier has faded, to such an extent that three issues of Crush! were sitting unopened in the Inbox. The magazine appears to have developed a rythym, and regular features can be expected in each magazine, with few new surprises in it. After reading Crush! 7, Crush! 8, and Crush! 9, and looking back at the pevious Crush! issues, our evaluation is that Crush! has settled down, that it knows where it is going, and that it has mastered most of its technical and design problems highlighted initially. But its quality remains inconsistent:
1. The design flashes have been largely removed, having been irritating in initial issues. Yet they remain in the focus on a personality (Squashed Tomato’s Linda Harding in Crush! 7; I’m no Jamie Oliver’s Matt Allisson – nice that the five point overview is about his lifestyle of food writer, stay-at-home father, and avid vegetable gardener – in Crush! 8; and Norman McFarlane in Crush! 9), distracting one in reading the content.
2. The covers don’t need to sell a magazine as the print equivalent have to, but it was disappointing to note how the cover photograph choice in the last three issues was far more unattractive than those of some earlier issues. The cover pic is usually one of four recipes developed by Sophia Lindop and beautifully photographed by Russel Wasserfall. The problem lies in the choice of photograph for the cover, and the placement of text on the pics, often making the text unreadable. Most front-cover flashes have been removed. The Crush! design and publishing team has no print magazine experience, and it still shows!
3. It is easier to navigate the magazine now, with clearer instructions of how to continue reading a story, but one does make the odd mistake in jumping to a next page, and not finishing a story.
4. A problem that continues is that pack shots in the ‘Essentials’, ‘High Five’ and ‘Quaff Now’ features are too small to allow pack recognition, bad news for the marketers of these products, no doubt paying a placement fee. It was odd to see a sunhat in an ‘Essentials for the kitchen’ collection, in Crush! 9!
5. Advertising support remains poor, and the state of the economy must be making itself felt at Crush! too, with the last two issues reduced to 42 pages, and carrying very few advertisements – only Old Mutual and Fairview having been regular advertisers. Insurer 1st for Women started advertising, and Le Creuset and Tokara olive oils have had once-off ads.
6. The contribution by ‘The Foodie’ blogger David Cope has changed dramatically – from initally having messy looking red-and-white check pages reflecting his blog design, the design linkage has been dropped in the past two issues. This has been replaced by far smarter looking features, but they have no credibility, as the pot and the knife features have the Chef’s Warehouse branding on them, almost hidden in a corner, and Cope does not declare that he does the Public Relations for the Chef’s Warehouse and Cookery School! The photography however is excellent, probably the best ever seen in any issue of Crush!
7. The main features vary in their quality, and there has never been consistency in their design and quality - the Hermanuspietersfontein feature looks fantastic, with many beautiful photographs. The Glen Carlou and Hidden Valley features look less attractive due to black and white photographs on the first page of the features. It seems as if Oliver has run out of material to write about, in featuring Hidden Valley, and Overture’s Bertus Basson, twice in the first year.
8. Re-opened Massimo’s Pizza Club in Hout Bay is featured in Crush! 9, but does not have enough pizza photographs to create appetite appeal. The oddest restaurant feature, a six page story by David Cope on Le Quartier Français’ The Tasting Room, does not contain a single photograph, and it takes Cope three pages to start writing about the Tasting Room, via a profile on Spanish chef Ferran Adria! Cope did not make notes of his nine-course meal, and therefore he is quite vague about what he ate there!
9. Recipe features do not interest me generally, but the most stunning feature ever is that of soups paired with Monis products in Crush! 9, including the lesser known Monis Muscadel and Port. The photographs are outstanding, and one wonders why all the photography used for and design of Crush! cannot be of this quality.
10. The features on winemakers Morné Vrey of Delaire Graff and Russell Retief of Van Loveren, on charcuterier Richard Bosman, and on the Steenberg Hotel are ineffective, in being broken down into blocks, some profiles having as many as 27 blocks to click, a guarantee that one would lose interest to read it all. Chef Christiaan Campbell of Delaire Graff, the Foodbarn, as well as the Vineyard Hotel are also featured. However, none of the three issues contain a restaurant review anymore.
11. The ‘Fine Print’ book page and ‘Crushifieds’ remain too busy, although the latter has improved greatly – ‘less is more’ should guide design in these features.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com Twitter:@Whale Cottage
Sunday 16th January 2011 - Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein
The Salmon Bar at The Yard in Franschhoek recently re-opened in a new venue in the same centre, but now is visible to the main road. The new venue has an odd shape, but its interior decor is marine-orientated, and it is far better able to communicate that it is all about salmon and trout, but also serves wonderful breakfasts, sells outstanding breads, as well as muffins, croissants and cupcakes, and excellent cappuccinos. The restaurant seems to have got streets better since its re-opening at the beginning of December.
Judy Sendzul is the clever owner of The Salmon Bar at The Yard, which was previously located at a courtyard off the main road when it first opened three years ago, so it was especially popular amongst the Franschhoek locals, who liked the restaurant for its coffee, breakfasts, and salmon meals, to buy wonderful bread, and to sit at a restaurant table without the noise distrubance of trucks driving by on the main road. Initially I was not a salmon fan, and therefore did not consider it for lunches, or even dinners, when these were introduced. But that has changed. The website describes the owner Judy as “chef, restaurateur, retail food product developer and marketer”. She worked at Woolworths, developing new products for two years. The Three Streams Smokehouse, a partner in the venture, also supplies Woolworths with salmon.
When Bouillabaisse closed down, the developers of The Yard moved the Pam Golding offices to the Bouillabaisse space, and The Salmon Bar took the Pam Golding space, but also that of Schwartz jewellers behind it. The result is a long thin extended restaurant, which almost divides itself into two sections: one near the ‘retail section’ of the restaurant and its pay point, and another set further back, towards the courtyard. The space has been used cleverly, with a counter running down the length of most of the restaurant. There are comfortable couches against the other wall, and modern white chairs. I have always admired the modern wave-like glass shelves which The Salmon Bar uses to display its breads, and these were in use in the old location already. Being focused on marine decor ourselves at Whale Cottage, it is a pleasure to see another business’ fish focus, with an engraved outline of a fish in the ceiling, linked to a slogan: “We source our fish responsibly and cook it simply for breakfast, lunch and dinner”. A wooden fish collage has been hung up behind the couches, and fishes have been painted on the wall above the trout and salmon fridges. The table number has a fish on it. On another wall there is another saying: “Produced and passionately hand made in Franschhoek”. The menu says “We source responsibly and cook simply”.
The Salmon Bar describes itself as “Restaurant, Bar, Deli, Bakery” on its menus. There are two menus, one for Breakfast, which is served until midday, and one for the other meals of the day, available throughout the day. The Breakfast menu is a small laminated menu, printed on both sides, and offers a large variety of interesting and unusual choices: croissants cost R15; pain au chocolate R15; muffins R22; toast, grape jam and Huguenot cheese costs R30; a croissant with oak smoked Royale Highlands trout and cream cheese costs R45; scrambled eggs and toast are my favourite, served plain at R30, R35 with tomato relish added, and R40 with bacon; lemon scrambled eggs with trout and crème fraîche cost R55; poached eggs (R30); fried eggs and bacon cost R40; boiled eggs and soldiers (R35); frittata and chorizo R55; bagel and scrambled egg with bacon or trout costs R45; ricotta hotcakes, berries and crème fraîche cost R40; and mushrooms on toast with ham R60. Cappuccino is charged at R15.
Cleverly the winelist is printed on a wine bottle, and is a small selection of mainly Franschhoek wines, heavily weighted to those from Boekenhoutskloof. There are five white wines, starting at R25/R90 for Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, and for the Wolftrap Viognier Chenin Blanc, to R55/R220 for the Boekenhoutskloof Semillon. “Pink wines” offered are Wolftrap (R25/R90) and Haut Espoir (R33/R130). Five red wines start at Wolftrap Syrah Mourvedre Viognier (R25/R90), and The Chocolate Block costs R60/R260. “Fine wines” cost R900 for Bollinger, Krone Borealis Cuvée MCC 2007 costs R35/R170, and Krone Rosé Cuvée R45/R220.
The main menu is A3-sized, and one side sketches the “Journey of the Royale Highlands Trout”: the eggs are hatched in Franschhoek. The fingerlings are transported to the Lesotho Highlands, where the clear and cold water of the Katse Dam is ideal for farming trout. Then the full-grown trout are returned to Franschhoek, where they are cured and smoked. On the other side, the extensive, unusual and unique salmon and trout focused menu is printed. Sashimi is offered, 6 pieces of salmon cost R65 and 6 pieces of tuna R75. “Japanese tapas” offered is salmon and prawn pot stickers – there was far more salmon than prawn in these, and the manager agreed that it is predominantly made from salmon, and explained that the prawn content is finely chopped. I would have expected a 50/50% prawn and salmon content. One could not taste the prawns at all (R35); grilled whitefish (R45); the prawn rice noodle spring roll was crunchy, containing mange tout, with a delicious crispy ‘wrapper’, but containing chilli and therefore had quite an afterbite! (R30); and Oshi Zushi (pressed salmon sushi – R35/R70). “Smoked and cured” offerings are Loch Duart Scottish salmon and toast (R85), and a smoked salmon platter (R125). Trout paté costs R55, prawns Marie Rose R85; Teriyaki salmon bites R85; New Zealand mussels R65; and Richard’s cured meats R75. Salads are unusual too: grilled Yakitori salmon salad, with seaweed and mushrooms (R98); yellow fin tuna (R75); hot smoked trout Niçoise (R85); spicy pear salad (R55); and a 4-cheese platter costs R85. “Grills” available are linefish (R85); fish cakes (R65); Franschhoek trout (R75); Loligo squid (R65); and prawn/salmon Tom Yum” (R55).
The Deli sells Tokara olive oils, as well as jams, honey, cheese, trout, salmon paté, and a wonderful collection of breads – the dough is supplied by Knead Bakery, and baked on the premises: buttermilk rye, light rye, ciabatta with olives, multi-seed health bread, fruited muesli, and barley, potato and rosemary bread, ranging in price from R22 – R28. Baguettes cost R12. One can also buy Black Tiger prawns, tuna, mussels, Norwegian salmon, Rainbow Trout, Richard Bosman’s Quality Cured Meats, and home-made mayonnaise.
I love going to The Salmon Bar, with really friendly staff, and a chef who is willing to bend the rules about which of their lovely breads may be used to make toast. Parking always seems to be available outside on the main road. The prices charged are reasonable, and the restaurant has a niche untouched by any other in Franschhoek or the Western Cape.
The Salmon Bar at The Yard, 38 Huguenot Road, Franschhoek. Tel (021) 876-4591. www.salmonbar.com (The website lists the menus and winelist, and each page has a beautiful salmon shot, but the general food items are not featured due to the lack of an Image Gallery. Some photographs of the interior are of the previous location). Open Monday – Sunday 8h00 – 21h00.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com Twitter: @WhaleCottage