Entries tagged with “Overture”.
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Wed 25 Aug 2010
George Jardine is a highly respected chef, and has been a regular on the Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards list. His move to the Jordan Winery in Stellenbosch, to open the mouthful of a brand name ‘Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine’ in November last year probably cost him the Top 10 listing, but has been a welcome lifestyle change for him and his family. The new restaurant has added substance to the Stellenbosch Restaurant Route, and to Stellenbosch taking over the Gourmet Capital crown of South Africa.
The setting of the Jordan wine estate at the end of the Stellenbosch Kloof Road is special, with lots of birdlife, and no traffic noise. A huge dam in front of the winery and the restaurant attracts even more birds. The parking area reflected the popularity of the restaurant, filled with cars on a Friday afternoon. A compliment to the chef is that Hein Koegelenberg and his wife Hanlie (Rupert) of La Motte had brought some of their staff for a treat (their new Pierneef a la Motte restaurant opens in the next few days), whilst Gary Jordan (Jordan Wines owner) also had a table of eight in the restaurant. I enjoyed chatting to both.
When I reviewed Jardine’s in Cape Town, I noted that George Jardine was not visible in that restaurant, despite marketing information which led one to believe that Jardine would be looking after his Cape Town restaurant a few days per week. This does not seem to be the case, as Jardine is very hands-on in his restaurant at Jordan’s (one has to remain sober to get around the Jordan/Jardine brand names)!
The restaurant brand name is on the building near its entrance door (but not visible from the parking area), in silver lettering, adding a modern touch to a building that is not! It looks functionally designed and built from outside, and this perception does not change when one is inside. The interior is a Jardine’s Cape Town deja vu - the open plan kitchen (much bigger preparation space here though), functional interior, some paintings of pomegranates and figs, very functional kitchen counter from the customer perspective, almost old-fashioned, not particularly attractive lightwooded chairs, and modern stacking glass doors. The lovely overlay over the white tablecloth reminded me of Overture’s new tablecloths. The glassware and cutlery is average, but I noticed David Walters’ ceramic touch in the square side plate. The serviette seemed superwhite, of very good quality. The waiters look neat in white shirts, black pants and black aprons.
The waiter Andrew was perfect - not pushy, not arrogant, helpful, informative, patient in answering all my questions, just disappointing when he did not e-mail the winelist on the same day, as promised (it appears he had delegated this to Jardine’s wife, who did not attend to it until I called for it). He presented the menu on a black leather holder (similar to that of Overture, Majeka House and others I have seen recently).
The first thing I noticed on the menu was the date with a weather description “A misty 23rd July”. One has two choices on the menu - a three-course Menu Du Jour winter special at R 180, and R220 if one has two wines - one does not have any choices on this menu. Alternatively the three-course a la carte menu allows one to choose two dishes for R 200, and 3 courses for R225, and one has up to four choices per course. There is little difference in value between the two options, and therefore I ordered from the a la carte menu.
The winelist is cute and neat, a small square size, bound in a black leather cover, and each page has a quotation relating to wine on it. Corkage is indicated at R50, and only one bottle is allowed. The winelist is introduced as follows: “This is a selection of wines we enjoy. Each bottle is full of love, passion and a story and if you listen carefully with your taste buds some part of that story may show, explaining terroir, slopes, altitude, climate and other interesting details. A wine however is not made by one person alone, much like the food you are about to enjoy. Thousands of people from farms, most of which can be seen from where you are sitting, have had an effort in making your wine – whether that is planting, pruning, squashing or bottling it. Please enjoy our effort in presenting their effort.”
The wine range contains a mix of Jordan and other wines, and the price band is such that it offers an affordable wine for every pocket. Wines-by-the-glass are surprisingly affordable, a glass of Chameleon (a Jordan brand) Rose’ costing R25, and a glass of Jordan Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mellifera does not cost more than R40. White wine bottle prices start at R90 for a Chameleon Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay, peaking at R700 for a Jordan CWG Auction Reserve Chardonnay. De Waal Pinotage costs R85, a Jordan Sophia R963. While the winelist shows vintages, it does not describe any of the wines. I ordered a glass of Jordan Syrah 2006, which was very smooth, smoky and full-bodied, reminding me of a shiraz made the old-fashioned traditional way.
The bread plate was the most creative I have ever seen, refreshingly different, and reflects that Jardine is an ardent bread baker. The square bread plate had a bowl of aoili, a block of farm butter, crisp strips made from sweet potatoes, and a breadstick made from vetkoek dough. It wasn’t just the individual items that looked amazing, but the way in which they were presented made it look like a course in itself.
What I found interesting, having been at Jardine’s in Cape Town where ”organised chaos” seemed to dictate food presentation, is that Jardine is very angular, his food presented in square containers. The starter, for example, was presented on a black slate tile (I remember slate at Jardine’s in Cape Town for the cheese platter) and this was set inside a square glass container, with a serviette neatly placed between the two containers, making its presentation look very smart.
The duck liver parfait starter, with a confit duck bonbon rolled in sesame seeds, served with prune and celeriac chantilly and tiny slices of toasted brioche, was melt in the mouth (the bonbon had been left off the plate by mistake initially). Other starter options were Saldanha Bay mussels, pan fried west coast mackerel, and hand rolled fettuccini. The main course arrived after about a 45 minute wait, which seemed long, in that I had run out of questions to ask, been to the bathroom, and read all my Twitter updates. My main course intrigued me, in that it was not any old pork, but “Penny Verburg’s suckling pig roasted”, which was served with braised cavolo nero (a type of black cabbage), parsnip and gremolata. Penny is the wife of Botriver-based Luddite winemaker Neels Verburg, and she has a good hand with organic pig rearing, Andrew told me. The pork was thinly sliced, and every now and again one had a bite of the thinnest pieces of crackling, giving good mouthfeel as well as taste. Other starter choices were Chalmar ribeye, hake, and gnocchi. I felt that I had hit the jackpot in both choices, they were so outstanding. I didn’t have any dessert, but I could have chosen between chocolate souffle, an interesting sounding baked Pimm’s creme catalan (just saw a very similar dessert on the La Colombe menu), or a cheese board.
The Menu du Jour was Vichyssoise with a warm salad of sauteed tongue, gnocchi and gremolata; braised veal brisket; and chocolate hot pot with vanilla ice cream and praline.
I will go back to Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, on a summery day, so that I can sit outside, and try more of Jardine’s creations. It is a pity that Jardine is so hands-on that he does not allow himself to leave the kitchen at all to greet his customers, a contradiction as he is visible to all diners, but he makes no eye contact, and barely responded when I thanked him for the lovely lunch when I left.
Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Jordan Winery, Stellenbosch Kloof Road, Stellenbosch. Tel (021) 881-3612. www.jordanrestaurant.co.za (The website is not operational. Surprisingly, no information about the restaurant is available on the Jordan Wines’ website www.jordanwines.com ). Open for lunch Wednesdays - Sundays, and on Thursday and Friday evenings for dinner.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 'organised chaos', aoili, bread baker, Chameleon, corkage, David Walters, De Waal, Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, functional, Gary Jordan, Gourmet capital, Hanlie Rupert, Hein Koegelenberg, Jardine's in Cape Town, Jordan CWG Auction Reserve Chardonnay, Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Jordan Sophia, Jordan Syrah, Jordan Winery, Jordan wines, La Colombe, La Motte, lifestyle, Luddite, Majeka House, Menu du Jour, Neels Verburg, organic pig rearing, Overture, Penny Verburg, Pierneef a la Motte, restaurant review, shiraz, Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch Kloof Road, Stellenbosch Restaurant Route, Top 10 listing, website
Sat 14 Aug 2010
We have been tracking recent restaurant opening, closure, and restaurant and chef change information in Cape Town and in the Winelands on our Winter Restaurant Specials blog post, but have decided to do an update for those not looking for specials necessarily.
Restaurant openings
* La Mouette has opened at 78 Regent Road in Sea Point.
* Brio is a new jazz restaurant, in half of the ex-Riboville in town (on the Adderley Street side)
* Liquorice and Lime has taken over the other half of ex-Riboville (on the St George’s Mall side)
* Van Hunks has opened at 1 Union Street, off Kloof Street in Gardens
* Cafe Nood has opened in Wilderness Road, Claremont
* shu has opened next to Doppio Zero on Main Road, Green Point.
* Ryan’s Kitchen has opened at Rusthof guest house in Franschhoek - the chef Ryan Smith is ex-Mont Rochelle.
* Madame Zingara has re-opened at Century City, after a two-year absence.
* The House of Meat has opened in the Pepper Club Hotel, corner Long and Bloem Streets, offering a full braai for R 295
* Spiros has opened in Hout Bay
* La Cantina has opened in the Alliance Francaise.
* The De Leuwen Jagt restaurant on the Seidelberg wine estate outside Paarl has opened The Fabulous Bakery.
* Gesellig has opened on the corner of Church and Regent Roads in Sea Point, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
* Indochine has opened at the Delaire Graff wine estate in Stellenbosch.
* The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe has opened at Haskell Vineyards in Stellenbosch.
* The Wild Peacock Food Emporium has opened in Stellenbosch.
* De Oude Bank Bakkerij has opened in Stellenbosch.
* Knife Restaurant has opened in the Crystal Towers Hotel & Spa, a sister restaurant to Fork.
* Sommelier Restaurant has re-opened, after a two-year closure, at Sante Hotel & Wellness Centre
* Illyria coffee shop has opened in the Eikestad Mall in Stellenbosch
* Pierneef a la Motte will open at La Motte in Franschhoek on Saturday.
* The Artisan Cafe opens inside Table Thirteen in Green Point on 30 August, with a barista
* The Fish Shack opens in The Paddocks, Milnerton
* Reuben’s at One&Only Cape Town opens on 1 October
* The Satay Bar has opened where Zucca used to be on Kloof Street
Restaurant closures
* Josephine’s Patisserie on Loop Street
* Ginja on New Church Street
* maze at the One&Only Cape Town
* Panarotti’s and Shimmi’s Bar in Hermanus
* Bouillabaisse in Franschhoek.
* Yum in Vredehoek.
* Cape Town Fish Market in Camps Bay
* Vista Mare in Camps Bay
* La Table de France in Sea Point
* Miguel’s in Plettenberg Bay
* La Brasserie in Franschhoek
Restaurant name-changes/take-overs/chef changes
* Leaf Restaurant and Bar has opened where The Showroom/Portofino used to be.
* Mason’s Cafe and Grill has opened where Cafe Gainsbourg used to be
* On Broadway has moved to the New Space Theatre building, and is using the ex-Anytime restaurant space as one of the restaurants its patrons can eat at before the show.
* Camil Haas, the co-owner of Camil’s in the Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, has left the restaurant and is doing wine and food pairing evenings with wineries in Franschhoek.
* Tank in the old Cape Quarter is to get a new name.
* Luke Dale-Roberts is no longer the Executive Chef at La Colombe, but will consult to the restaurant.
* Cafe Rouge in Franschhoek has been renamed Chez d’Or.
* Richard Carstens has left Chez d’Or in Franschhoek, and will be the Executive Chef and Wilhelm Kuehn the owner of Tokara Restaurant in Stellenbosch, from October
* Buena Vista Social Club has moved to the top end of Portswood Road in the Waterfront.
* The Restaurant at One&Only Cape Town has taken over from maze, until Reuben’s at One&Only Cape Town opens on 1 October.
* Cafe Le Chocolatier has taken over from Cafe Vendome in Place Vendome in Franschhoek.
* Dutch East has taken over from Burgundy in Franschhoek
* Cafe des Arts has taken over Topsi’s in Franschhoek.
* Amazink, ex-Roots, in Khayamandi in Stellenbosch, has opened, with Bertus Basson from Overture an advisor.
* Chef School owner Kevin Warwick has taken over Kate’s Village in Hermanus, now called The Class Room
* Luigi’s from Hout Bay is said to be opening where Vista Mare was in The Promenade in Camps Bay
* Satay Bar has opened where Zucca was in Kloof Street
Restaurant winter break closures
* Camil’s in Green Point re-opens on 1 September.
* The Mount Nelson’s Cape Colony re-opens with a new interior and new menu on 1 November.
* Reubens in Franschhoek is closing on certain dates: 3, 4, 10, 17, 18, 25, 26, 31 August and 1 September
* Vaudeville is closed between August and October, and is set to re-open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
* Massimo’s Pizza Club in Hout Bay is likely to reopen in November, in a new yet-to-be-announced venue in Hout Bay.
* The Salmon Bar in Franschhoek is moving to a main road outlet in The Yard (part ex-Bouillabaisse and Pam Golding), and is closed for renovations, re-opening on 1 November
* Bistro 1682 is closed until 5 September
* The Grand in Camps Bay has closed for renovations, and re-opens on 31 August
* Cafe Max in Green Point is closed for renovations from 23 - 31 August
* Rust en Vrede closes between 5 - 28 September
* Madame Zingara leaves Cape Town shortly, for Johannesburg.
* The Sandbar in Camps Bay has closed until 16 September
NOTE: This information will be updated regularly, as we receive new information.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Alliance Francaise, Amazink, Anytime, Bertus Basson, Bistro 1682, Bouillabaisse, Brio, Buena Vista Social Club, Burgundy, Cafe des Arts, Cafe Gainsbourg, Cafe Le Chocolatier, Cafe Nood, Cafe Rouge, Cafe Vendome, Camil Haas, Camil's, Camps Bay, Cape Colony, Cape Quarter, Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, Cape Town, Cape Town Fish Market, Century City, Charly's Bakery, Chef changes, Chef School Kevin Warwick, Chez d'Or, Chris von Ulmenstein, Crystal Towers Hotel & Spa, De Leuwen Jagt, De Oude Bank Bakkerij, Delaire Graff, Doppio Zero, Dutch East, Fork, Franschhoek, Gesellig, Ginja, Haskell Vineyards, Hermanus, House of Meat, Hout Bay, Indochine, Jardine, Josephine's Patisserie, Kate's Village, Knife Restraurant, La Brasserie, La Cantina, La Colombe, La Motte, La Mouette, La Petite Tarte, Leaf Sushi and Chinese Restaurant, Liquorice and Lime, Long Table Restaurant and Cafe, Luigi's, Luke Dale-Roberts, Madame Zingara, Marika's, Mason's Cafe and Grill, Massimo's Pizza Club, Maze, Miguels, Mont Rochelle, Mount Nelson, New Space Theatre, On Broadway, One&Only Cape Town, Overture, Pannaroti's, Pepper Club Hotel, Pierneef a la Motte, Place Vendome, Plettenberg Bay, Portofino, Restaurant closures, restaurant name changes, Restaurant news, Restaurant openings, Reuben's at One&Only Cape Town, Reubens, Riboville, Richard Carstens, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Rusthof, Ryan Smith, Ryan's Kitchen, Sante Hotel & Wellness Centre, Satay Bar, Sea Point, Seidelberg, Shimmi's Bar, shu, Somerset West, Sommelier Restautant, Spiros, Stellenbosch, Table Thirteen, Tank, terroir, The Artisan Cafe, The Class Room, The Fabulous Bakery, The Fish Shack, The Grand, The Promenade, The Restaurant at the One&Only Cape Town, The Salmon Bar, The Sandbar, The Showroom, Tokara, Van Hunks, Vaudeville, Vista Mare, Waterkloof Winery, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Wild Peacock Food Emporium, Wilhelm Kuehn, Winelands, Winter Break, winter restaurant specials, winter specials, Yum, Zucca
Thu 12 Aug 2010
Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein under Cape Town
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Yesterday we set the scene for the Sante Hotel and Wellness Centre, which re-opened just over two months ago. In our review of the Hotel and Spa, we painted a picture of mis-management, and our tale continues with our review of the Hotel’s restaurant Sommelier, a disappointment, in not having a sommelier, for being expensive in what it offers, and for its below-average service. The restaurant Sommelier was in place when the Hotel originally opened. I am not aware that a sommelier was ever in operation. The new owner of the hotel has maintained the restaurant name.
The restaurant is large, and not well filled with furniture, seating about 50 persons on four completely different styles of chairs, which makes it look more empty. There was no music, no candles, nothing to create some mood - even if I was the only person eating there on the first night. The menu was neatly typed on a sheet of paper, presented on a brown leather holder which I have seen often recently (Restaurant at Majeka House, Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Overture), but nothing like the “gourmet menu” nor offering a “choice of South African and international cuisine”, as claimed by the Hotel website. Three choices are offered per course.
The ”Wine Collection” (nice name) is an impressive looking document, bound in brown leather, and commendably has the Platter star-rating of every wine listed. Each of the more than 70 wines is described in detail. It is however the most difficult winelist from which I have ever chosen a wine. Instead of going the predictable wine variety route in classifying the wines, the “authors” of the winelist (the GM Kristien de Kinder and two wine consultants) went the wacky route of trying to be “clever” in classifying the wines stocked in terms of sometimes funny, sometimes weird headings they have given, which means that one does not understand what the headings refer to, and therefore one must go through each of the 17 pages to find a wine one knows or would like to try, which could easily take half an hour. The Wine Collection must be so new that one feels that one is touching its pages for the first time.
Only one Wine Collection category is understandable (”French Champagnes”), but most are not. So, for example, “Taste the Stars” lists sparkling wines (e.g. Miss Molly from Moreson, Krone Rose Cuvee Brut); “Great Whites” (all Sauvignon Blancs); “White Collar Whites” (e.g. Groote Post Unwooded Chardonnay, Bosman Old Bush Vines, Veenwouden Vivat Bacchus, Warwick Professor Black); “The Crowd Pleaser” (e.g. Altyd Gedacht Gewurztraminer, Glen Carlou Chardonnay); “Rich Whites” (Constantia Uitsig Semillon); “Scented Garden Wines (all Rose’s); ”The Outsiders” (De Krans Tinta Berocca (sic), Idiom Sangiovese); ”Cheerleaders” (Seidelberg Cabernet Sauvignon); “Sensual Reds” (Seidelberg Un Deux Trois); and “Incredible Reds” (De Toren Fusion V). Wines-by-the-glass cost between R40 - R50, and the vintages of the two reds (Seidelberg Cabernet Sauvignon and Bell Post Merlot) are both 2006. I enjoyed a bottle of Rijks Shiraz 2004, which I spread over my two dinners whilst at the hotel. Commendably, they have a special closure to pump out the oxygen once the bottle has been opened, to keep for the next day.
I was interested in finding out about the chef, and Terence told me his name is Neil. He went to find out his background, and told me that he came from the restaurant at Rickety Bridge outside Franschhoek. I asked if I could meet him - when he came to the table, his name had changed to Neville, Chef Neil Rogers having been one of the 20 staff to have been fired the week prior. Sous Chef Neville Appollis came to the table wearing the chef’s outfit of Proviant Hospitality, a catering company he worked at more than two years ago. He had been at the “old” Sante, and his last job was at Rickety Bridge. There is no Executive Chef at Sante, I was told. (Guests Larry and Heather Katz I met in the restaurant on the second night were told that a chef from Grootbos is to start in September).
I was not offered any bread, and when I questioned the waiter Terence about it, he said they don’t serve it. The chef Neville was more honest in admitting that they had forgotten to bring it to the table! Starters are a choice of butternut and orange soup, expensive at R50, a smoked “salmon gravadlax” salad, and a chicken salad, both at R55.
The main course (Pan-grilled lamb noisette rolled in marjoram, coriander and paprika) was served within 5 minutes of giving the go-ahead, after the difficult wine choice. This meant that the food had been pre-prepared, even though I had asked for it not to be prepared until I had been through the Wine Collection, which explained why the food was not served hot. The lamb was very fatty, served on mash (which I had requested instead of the couscous), and served medium rare, even though the waiter had suggested it should be served medium. Stirfried red cabbage and red pepper strips were served with the dish, and had a surprising sweet taste. The dish was served with a Red Wine jus. I felt that the cost of R130 was expensive for a restaurant stuck away in the middle of nowhere, not having a sommelier, not serving bread, and for having no ambiance at all. Chef Neville admitted that he may not have cut off enough of the fat before preparing the dish. Other main course choices were Grilled Dorado (R95) and Oxtail (R140).
I had springrolls with an orange and chocolate filling, with a spoonful of vanilla pod ice cream served in a Chinese spoon for dessert (R45) - the rolls were very crispy, but I felt that the orange was dominated by the chocolate filling. Other options are creme brule (sic) and chocolate fondant with chocolate ice cream and chocolate sauce, at the same price.
Things looked up on the second night, as there were more guests in the restaurant, music was played and a candleholder was on the table, but the candle was not lit. A new waitress was far more efficient in service, but once again there was no bread (I had been promised it for the second night). Mannie, the Duty Manager of the hotel, came to the rescue, and bread was brought to the table. I had chosen to eat at the hotel again, because of the bad condition of the gravel road off the R45 to the hotel, and because the waiter Terence had promised that the menu changes every day. Only one of the three dishes per course was different to the menu of the night before. A Greek salad was brought to the table, which was not for me, and was not a menu option. I had the Beef fillet served on shitake mushroom risotto, served with vegetables, and could not help but think that the mushrooms were fresh out of a tin, chopped up. The size of the steak was tiny, meant to be 200 gram, I was told, and the risotto was heavily overcooked, cloying and mushy.
The bottom line is that the restaurant name is misleading, in there not being a sommelier. The quality of the service staff is poor, and there is no Restaurant Manager on duty in the evenings. The food is not well prepared, portion sizes are small, prices are high, and the kitchen seems to be out of its depth without an Executive Chef. The winelist is odd, the ambiance non-existent, and there is poor co-ordination between the kitchen and the waiters. The retrenchment of 20 staff last week, only two months after opening, plus the threatened further staff cuts, have created a staff complement that is ready to jump off what could become a sinking ship, badly influencing the operation of every aspect of the hotel, spa and restaurant.
Sommelier Restaurant, Sante Hotel and Spa, off R 45, between Klapmuts and Franschhoek. Tel (021) 875-1800. www.santewellness.co.za (The website does not feature the menu of Sommelier, but it does have a menu for Cadeaux, a restaurant which is meant to be run in the Spa building, but has not re-opened. It states that Chef Neil Rogers is running both these restaurants, but is dishonest in that only Sommelier is open, and that the Chef has been fired. The food photographs are extremely misleading relative to the presentation of the food).
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Bell Post, Bosman Old Bush Vines, Cadeaux, catering company, Chef Neil Rogers, Chris von Ulmenstein, closure, De Krans Tinta Barocca, De Toren Fusion V, Duty Manager, executive chef, fired, food presentation, Franschhoek, French Champagnes, GM Kristien de Kinder, gourmet menu, Grootbos, Groote Post Unwooded Chardonnay, hotel, Hotel and Spa, Idiom Sangiovese, international cuisine, Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Klapmuts, Krone Rose Cuvee Brut, lamb noisette, Larry and Heather Katz, Mannie, Miss Molly, Moreson, Overture, Platter star-rating, Proviant Hospitality, restaurant, Restaurant at Majeka House, Restaurant Manager, restaurant review, retrenchment, Rickety Bridge, Rijks Shiraz, Sante Hotel and Wellness Centre, sauvignon blancs, Seidelberg, sommelier, Sommelier Restaurant, spa, sparkling wines, staff cuts, Veenwouden Vivat Bacchus, Warwick Professor Black, website, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Wine Collection, wine variety, winelist
Tue 10 Aug 2010
It is not often that an evening that starts as a disaster ends off on such a high note. Our evening at the two month old Indochine at Delaire Graff could have gone horribly wrong, but the service recovery from the Duty Manager Sabrina D’Agrossi, chef Jonathan Heath and waiter Nick all combined to rescue the evening, pulling out all the stops to ensure that we were made to feel very special, and to enjoy the outstanding unique and special Asian-fusion menu.
I had booked a table for a Thursday evening two days earlier, and confirmed that I had pronounced the name of the new restaurant correctly, so there was no mistaking at which of the two restaurants on the estate I wanted to book. We drove through the open gates at the security entrance, passed the Delaire restaurant, looking for the new Hotel, designed by French architect Pierre Bories, but there was no signage yet for the hotel, and the security guard we asked in the parking area had never heard of Indochine, nor had the person he asked via his walkie-talkie! I then Googled the telephone number on my phone, and had the luck that Sabrina answered the phone. She gave me the news that the restaurant was closed as they had no bookings! I told her about my booking, and she told me where to find the hotel, through the gates, ‘guarded’ by the two Dylan Lewis cheetahs. Nick met us outside, and walked us into the restaurant, showing us the tiny cinema, and we noticed the outstanding artwork inside the generous hotel reception area. The chef was called and he came to the restaurant from Stellenbosch, to prepare our meal, with such graciousness that you could have sworn that it was a pleasure for him to be called away from home.
The owner Laurence Graff (owner of Graff Diamonds International Ltd, victim of one of the biggest jewellery robberies in London last year) is known as an art collector from the original Delaire restaurant, and he has invested in four further Dylan Lewis cheetahs on the lawn outside the restaurant, each costing R 250000, we were told. He has also focused on father Anton and son Lionel Smit, with sculptures and paintings by the Smits, especially the latter featuring strongly.
The restaurant is a large open plan one, with the bar at the entrance, and two comfortable chairs if one wants to sit at the fireplace. The interior design has been done by London-based David Collins, who did the Delaire restaurant and wine centre too. If the Delaire restaurant leans to the orange side in terms of its decor, Indochine is definitely blue - blue leather chairs (strangely low, indirectly admitted by Sabrina as not intended to have been so low), and small blue leather couches with round dining tables, one could say ”cut-up” and small versions of the large orange couches in the Delaire restaurant. The tables have a copper top, the colour a warm decor touch, but with a wooden bar underneath the tables facing one, which means that one can bump one’s knees against it, and one therefore has to put one’s legs on each side of it, an uncomfortable position. There is little art inside the restaurant, and it is understated relative to the sister Delaire restaurant. The view must be magnificent by day, onto Stellenbosch. The glassware probably is from Riedel, the cutlery is the most modern chic Italian, and a wooden board on the table holds a lantern with a candle. The music is reasonably soft Eastern style. The Hotel building only houses the spa and restaurant, and guests are accommodated in 10 “lodges” outside the hotel, with Cape Dutch style gables (the cost for one night starts at R8000). Graff has so much faith in his team, that he has supervised the building work via DVD, the staff tell us, and he has yet to see his new hotel and restaurant.
We were presented the blue-cover menu and winelist, and were served a glass of Delaire Sauvignon Blanc (initially the Chardonnay was brought to the table in error) for my guest, and a Red Blend 2006 for myself (the Delaire Shiraz was a 2009, so I declined), expensive I felt at R50 and R60, respectively. Only the Delaire wines are served by the glass. Nick told us that they had not intended to serve wines by the glass, but have realised that there is a demand for it, so they will be added to the winelist. Nick struggled to get away from serving us bottled water, when I asked for fresh Stellenbosch water. The Delaire wine labels are beautifully designed. The winelist is interesting, in being only two pages (not likely to win the Diner’s Club Winelist Award), and offering a very restricted choice of no more than four/five brands, but in many cases only one or two per varietal. Only the champagne (Billecart-Salmon Rose, Laurent-Perrier and Louis Roederer Cristal), and six other wines are imported (the Chateau Pichon Lalande 2005 costing R 5500, Hospices De Beaune 2002 R 1950), and Delaire Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rose’, and the Red Blend are offered. Vintages are specified on the winelist, but no wine descriptions are provided.
I noticed references to chilli, pepper and curry in the menu, and did not want to order anything that was too hot. The chef came to the table, and explained the menu to us (what a great touch, given that the menu creation is his “baby”, so who better to describe it?). I had not heard of Chef Jonathan Heath before, and most of his experience after he started his apprenticeship at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West was at Southern Sun Hotels both domestically and in Africa, his last stop having been the opening of a Southern Sun in Nigeria. He loves Asian-fusion food, and is therefore in his element. Mr Graff does too, and that is why such a style of restaurant was selected for the hotel. It also contrasts the cuisine of the Delaire restaurant, is healthier in that the food is only steamed and poached, and is light. Chef Jonathan is a big fan of Heston Blumenthal, and is into foams and froths, and molecular gastronomy, he says. He also sources organic produce where he possibly can.
Sabrina came to the table with a customer feedback form, so that the problems experienced can be addressed by the management, as well as a media pack. She also brought a gift pack with a bottle of Delaire Shiraz, to express her apology. She offered me her card, so that I could book directly with her in future.
The menu offers 2 courses for R 225, 3 courses for R290, 4 courses for R385, and 5 courses for R 470. Like Overture, one may choose the dishes from any of the sections on the menu. The Chef quickly sent an amuse bouche of duck liver parfait and a home-made paneer cheese, with a strong lingering aftertaste. Chef Jonathan impressed us by bringing each of the dishes to the table, and explaining the ingredients to us. My guest’s Tikka Duck Marsala was served with curried lentils, coriander, cumin, spring onion and red pepper, garnished with pea shoots, and had a wonderful cucumber and cumin riatta. My duck springroll was made from rice paper and was steamed, Chef Jonathan saying that it has close to zero calories, with julienned carrots and beans, and served with pickled cucumber and daikon radish, a bamboo shoot salad and dipping sauces. Other starters are marinated beef salad, tuna loin, poached tiger prawns, and wild mushroom salad. This was followed by a wildberry and litchi sorbet.
My guest had the salmon trout, topped with squid and caviar, with tomato and chilli broth poured over it by the Chef at the table. My four 7-Thai-spice braised pork belly slices also had caviar on them. We ordered a bowl of Jasmine rice and a butternut salad with the main course (one is allowed one side dish each). Other mains offered are seared scallops, steamed line fish, duck breast, and Green tea poached Quail Breast. We did not order dessert, but were served a trio of treats with our cappuccino - pistachio mousse, a chocolate amaretto cycle, and a macadamia nut spear. Dessert choices are de-molded chai brulee, butternut sponge, citrus baked cheesecake, 5-spice malva pudding, and passion fruit panna cotta.
Chef Jonathan impressed us with his ability to interact with his guests, with his creativity in food preparation and presentation, and the generosity of what was sent out of the kitchen (a 2-course meal had an added amuse bouche, sorbet and sweet treats). He comes to greet and chats with guests as a matter of course. One hopes it stays this way. But none of this would have been possible without the calm and efficient way in which the Duty Manager Sabrina dealt with the problem, and had turned it into a wonderful evening. The restaurant is one of the finest in Stellenbosch, its addition strengthening our call for Stellenbosch to be given the Gourmet Capital crown, and to develop a Restaurant Route. Another fan of foams and froths, Richard Carstens, opens across the road at Tokara in October.
Indochine, Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch. Tel (021) 885-8160 (Ask for Sabrina to book). www.delaire.co.za
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: amuse bouche, Anton and Lionel Smit, art collector, Asian-fusion, Billecart-Salmon Rose, Cape Dutch style gables, Chateau Pichon Lalande, Chris von Ulmenstein, David Collins, Deborah Bell, Delaire Chardonnay, Delaire Graff Hotel & Spa, Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa, Delaire Red Blend, Delaire Sauvignon Blanc, Delaire Shiraz, Diner's Club Winelist, Dylan Lewis cheetahs, foams, foams and froths, froths, Googled, Gourmet Capital crown, Graff Diamonds International Ltd, Helshoogte Pass, Heston Blumenthal, Hospices De Beaune, hotel, Indochine, Jonathan Heath, Laurence Graff, Laurent Perrier, lodges, Lord Charles Hotel, Louis Roederer Cristal, molecular gastronomy, organic produce, Overture, paneer cheese, Pierre Bories, restaurant review, Richard Carstens, Riedel, Sabrina D'Agrossi, Somerset West, Southern Sun Hotels, Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch Restaurant Route, Tikka Duck Marsala, Tokara, Whale Cottage Portfolio, wine labels, winelist
Mon 26 Jul 2010
Stellenbosch has always been top of the pops as far as its wine selection and quality goes (i.e. wines winning awards), but has played poor cousin to Franschhoek for many years when it comes to its restaurant status, that is until recently, when the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list included more Top 10 restaurants in Stellenbosch (Rust en Vrede, Overture and Terroir) than in Franschhoek (The Tasting Room and The Restaurant at Grande Provence). Stellenbosch has always been the best marketed collective wine region, and was the first to introduce the Wine Route concept, which has been adopted by most wine-growing regions now.
My visit to Stellenbosch last week, to experience recently opened restaurants, confirmed my view that Stellenbosch by rights now should be called the Gourmet Capital of South Africa, not only due to the Eat Out Top 10 listings, but also in terms of the newer restaurants bubbling under. I believe that the tourism authority should be ahead of the game, and introduce a Restaurant Route for Stellenbosch, given the wealth of its creative and gourmet talent. It is easy to see that opening good quality restaurants on wine estates is a growing trend in Stellenbosch, and is good for business, as Werner Els told me at Haskell Vineyards, its Long Table restaurant leading to wine sales from restaurant patrons.
My recommendation for the Stellenbosch Restaurant Route is the following, based on own experience and recommendations. It is not comprehensive. I have added links to the restaurant listings that I have reviewed, and reviews of the newer restaurants will be published shortly.
* Rust en Vrede - probably the best restaurant in the town currently, a slick operation, run by modest but talented chef David Higgs, on the Rust en Vrede wine estate. Featured on the Eat Out Top 10 list 2009 and 2010, number 74 on 50 Best Restaurants in the World 2010 list, and Top vineyard restaurant of 2010 Great Wine Capitals in the World - read the review here. Tel (021) 881-3881
* Overture - Chef Bertus Basson is a hard-working re-inventor of his menu and operation, always looking to improve his complete package. On the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list for 2009 and 2010. Fantastic views from the location on the Hidden Valley wine estate - read the review here. Tel (021) 880-2721
* Terroir does nothing for me, I must admit, and therefore I do not understand that it is a perennial on the Eat Out Top 10 list (2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 - the Terroir website does not list the awards after 2006, so some awards may have been left out!). I have been there a number of times, and have not been excited about its menu, restaurant interior, and service. The outside seating on the De Kleine Zalze wine and golf estate is great for a warm day. Tel (021) 880-8167
* Restaurant Christophe - Die Skuinshuis is the setting for this exceptional restaurant, Chef Christophe Dehosse being the hands-on owner and chef, who talks to his customers in his charming French accent, a rare treat in restaurants. The foie gras, served with toasted brioche, is to die for - read the review here. Tel. (021) 886-8763
* Delaire at Delaire Graff - no money was spared in building and decorating this restaurant and winery building, and it houses a most impressive art collection. Chef Christian Campbell is doing outstanding work, and his crayfish lasagne is exceptional. Turnover of staff has reduced the quality of service - read our review 1 and review 2. Tel (021) 885-8160
* Indochine at Delaire Graff - this is the newest Stellenbosch restaurant, and is relatively less opulent in its interior design compared to its sister restaurant. Young chef Jonathan Heath is a star to watch, and his Asian fusion menu is sure to attract the attention of the Eat Out Top 10 judges. He explains the menu, and the dishes when he serves them personally. The two course special at R225 sounds expensive, but it does not reflect the amuse bouche, sorbet and sweet treats (with cappuccino) one receives at no extra charge. The Tikka Duck Marsala starter is excellent - read our review. Tel (021) 885-8160
* Restaurant at Majeka House -the restaurant is overshadowed by the Boutique Hotel in terms of its branding, and is not known to most foodlovers, a hidden gem in Paradyskloof, a suburb opposite the Stellenbosch Golf Course. Its young Chef Anri Diener trained at Tokara and Delaire, and is a rising star, presenting exciting French cuisine. The Millefeuille of chocolate mousse served with coffee meringue bars is to die for - Read the review. Tel (021) 880-1512
* Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine - a mouthful of a brand name but also a mouthful in value and excellent quality, a far cry from Jardine, which he co-owns in Cape Town, but rarely still cooks at. It is set at the end of a long road, on the Jordan wine estate, overlooks a big pond and the beautiful Stellenbosch mountains in the far distance, teeming with birdlife. Interior functional, as in Cape Town. Most beautiful and unique ”bread” plate ever seen. Read the review. Tel (021) 881-3612
* The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe - set at the end of a long road up a hill, above Rust en Vrede, on the Haskell Vineyards (marketers of Haskell and Dombeya wines), the food of Chef Corli Els is a wonderful surprise. The restaurant interior and waiter service do not match the excellence of her food or the quality of the Haskell wines. The Papaya and Avo salad stands out as one of the special treats I enjoyed last week. Read the Review. Tel (021) 881-3746
* The Big Easy - set on Dorp Street with some parking, and owned by Ernie Els and Johan Rupert, the restaurant is large, but divided into different rooms, allowing private functions. Average food, below average service generally. Sweet Service Award. tel (021) 887-3462
* Warwick wine estate - owner Mike Ratcliffe is a good marketer, and his gourmet picnics, designed by Chef Bruce Robertson, and prepared by their chef Bruce, are a great hit in summer. Winter warmer foods available too - read the picnic review here. Tel (021) 884-3144
* Nook Eatery - has been operating for a year, and has developed a reputation for good value, healthy (organic where possible) and wholesome food. Restaurant location in ‘League of Glory’ TV series, and next door to Restaurant Christophe. Good value buffet lunch, Wednesday pizza evenings, and sweet treats throughout the day. Hands-on owners Luke and passionate Chef Jess do not open the Eatery if they are not there themselves. Read the review here. tel (021) 887-7703
* Tokara DeliCATessen - has a buffet lunch too, very large restaurant space combined with a deli, but service poor and food quality average - read the review here. Tel (021) 808-5950
* Eight at Spier - the menu was designed by Judy Badenhorst, ex-River Cafe, and now running the Casa Labia Cafe in Muizenberg. Have not read much about it, and not experienced yet. Tel (021) 809-1188
* Melissa’s on Dorp Street - a perennial favourite, with a limited menu and standardised across all the branches. Fresh and wholesome foods, service not always great. Sour Service Award Tel (021) 887-0000
* Wild Peacock Food Emporium on Piet Retief Street (ex Okasie) - this is the newest eatery to open, belongs to Sue Baker and is managed by ex-Rust en Vrede front of house manager and daughter Sarah, selling deli items, a range of cold meats, imported French and local cheese, fresh breads, and has a sit-down menu as well. Review to follow. Tel 082 697 0870
* Mila, The Cake Shop- this must be the tiniest eatery interior in Stellenbosch, next door to The Big Easy, but it is crammed full of the most delectable cakes and pastries. Service not great when sitting outside. Review to follow. Tel 074 354 2142.
* Cupcake - serves a range of cupcakes, but not as wide a variety as one would expect. Good sandwiches and cappuccino, pretty square with water feature in which to sit. No review written. Tel (021) 886-6376
* Bonthuys (guessing its name) - Etienne Bonthuys is due to open a restaurant in the old Dorp Street Teater building, opposite Cupcake, when the renovations have been completed - it is certain to be worth a visit, to see what a new space will do to the notoriously temperamental chef! Bonthuys appears to have served his last meal at the Tokara wine estate.
* Umami - set in the Black Horse Centre on Dorp Street, this restaurant had not wowed me, but serves satisfactory lunches and dinners. No review written, and I rarely hear anyone talk about it. Tel (021) 887-5204
* Wijnhuis - located on Andringa Street, in the vicinity of tourism outlets. Given its name, it should be very popular in this town, and given the connection to its namesake in Newlands, and its parental link to La Perla, it should offer a lot better food quality and service than it does. Not reviewed, and would not recommend. Tel (021) 887-5844
* Pane E Vino - this food and wine bar is hidden to those who do not come to Bosman’s Crossing. Owned by Elena Dalla Cia, husband George and father-in-law Giorgio do wine and grappa tastings in the restaurant too. Good Italian fare. Not reviewed yet. Tel (021) 883-8312
* Cafe Dijon - French-style bistro on Plein Street. One experience not satisfactory due to owner not being there. Rated by JP Rossouw of Rossouw’s Restaurants. Tel (021) 886-7023
* Bodega @Dornier - I have not been to this restaurant on the Dornier wine estate, and have not read any reviews yet. Tel (021) 880-0557
* Cuvee Restaurant, Simonsig - not tried. Not read any exciting reviews yet. Tel (021) 888-4932
* De Oude Bank Bakkerij, Church Street - newly opened, opposite Vida e Caffe, this artisan bakery and cafe allows one to order from a list of cold meats, cheese and preserves what one wants to eat with the breads they sell. No review yet. Tel (021) 883- 2188
* Tokara - Etienne Bonthuys has left Tokara, and Richard Carstens is said to be stepping in his shoes, when his contract with Chez d’Or in Franschhoek finishes in September. Tokara denied that Carstens is taking over the restaurant lease. It has now (30/7) been confirmed that Jardine’s Wilhelm Kuehn is taking over Tokara, and that Richard Carstens will be the Executive Chef, opening in October.
* Stellenbosch Slow Food Market, Oude Libertas - previously the Bosman’s Crossing Market, it moved to Oude Libertas late last year. Good quality and often organic foods, not quite as top level and exciting as in its previous location, only open on Saturdays.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Anri Diener, art collection, Black Horse Centre, Bodega@Dornier, Bonthuys, Bosman's Crossing, Boutique Hotel, brand name, Bruce Robertson, Cafe Dijon, Cape Town, Casa Labia Cafe, Chez d'Or, Christian Campbell, Corli Els, Cupcake, Cuvee Restaurant, De Kleine Zalze, De Oude Bank Bakkerij, Delaire, Delaire Graff, Die Skuinshuis, Dombeya, Dorp Street Teater, Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list, Eight, Elena Dalla Cia, Ernie Els, foie gras, Franschhoek, French cuisine, golf estate, Gourmet Capital of South Africa, gourmet picnic, Haskell Vineyards, Indochine, Jardine, Jardines, Johan Rupert, Jonathan Heath, Jordan's Restaurant with George Jardine, JP Rossouw, Judy Badenhorst, La Perla, Majeka House, Melissa's, Mila, Nook Eatery, Okasie, organic foods, Oude LIbertas, Overture, Pane e Vino, Paradyskloof, Restaurant at Grande Provence, Restaurant Christophe, Richard Carstens, Rossouw's Restaurants, Rust en Vrede, Simonsig, Sour Service Award, Spier, Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch Golf Course, Stellenbosch Restaurant Route, Stellenbosch Slow Food Market, Stellenbosch Wine Route, terroir, The Big Easy, The Cake Shop, The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe, The Tasting Room, Tokara, Tokara DeliCatEssen, Top 10 restaurants, Umami, Warwick, Werner Els, Wijnhuis, Wild Peacock Food Emporium, Wilhelm Kuehn, wine estates, wine marketing region, wine route, Wines
Mon 10 May 2010
“Overture” is a musical term, meaning introduction to a musical piece. As a restaurant, Overture has been operating on the Hidden Valley wine estate outside Stellenbosch for 2,5 years, and no longer needs to be introduced. With its owner and chef Bertus Basson, it has established itself as a most professional and passionate restaurant, which has made it on the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list for the last two years.
To receive an invitation to a lunch at Overture is a treat - to spend 2,5 hours hours with Bertus Basson enjoying his restaurant’s lunch with him was an absolute privilege. It was my fourth visit to Overture, having enjoyed each of our lunches in the past.
As I drove to the Hidden Valley Estate, well hidden at the end of a road that takes one past Ernie Els wines outside Stellenbosch, not far from another Eat Out Top 10 restaurant, Rust en Vrede, I had to think back how negative Rossouw’s Restaurants was about the road to Overture when JP Rossouw first reviewed it. It is no problem to drive at all, unless JP has a fear of heights. All is forgiven, Rossouw has been back, and now he has included Overture as one of his select top-rated 3-star restaurants.
Bertus and I started talking about the Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, which placed Overture and Le Quartier Francais’ Tasting Room at joint 10th position, an unprecedented occurrence in the history of the Eat Out awards, and which attracted a huge degree of criticism. Basson admits that he was extremely angry, using an unrepeatable word. He consoled himself by saying that at least he was in good company with Le Quartier Francais’ chef Margot Janse. Whilst he said he did not need to rethink his restaurant as a result of this ranking, he did make one immediate change - that was to start buying imported products, e.g. scallops, salmon, truffles, and foie gras, because the imported products offered a better range, and the service delivery from the importers suited his needs better, says Basson. Prior to this Basson had been ‘proudly South African’ in terms of sourcing his ingredients. Recently Basson has thrown out the clipboard menu holder, and changed to a beautiful brown leather holder for each of the winelist, and the daily menu, the latter which changes daily.
Bertus Basson is a character - for years he sported a Mohican, but he has grown his hair, and now hides it underneath a grey ‘Andy Capp’ cap. He had stopped smoking earlier in the week, and was really chuffed about this victory. The restaurant has added new round tables, for tables for two, and added beautiful white table cloths and serviettes. Bertus talks and talks, and he reflects confidence in his product and his staff, without ever sounding like he is bragging. He has found his niche, yet he never takes his restaurant’s success for granted. He often arrives at work, he says, and radically changes something about it - the winelist, a dish is added or removed, constantly reinventing the restaurant, believing that evolution is necessary for all restaurants.
We discuss the plethora of food blogs and restaurant websites, and he is critical of some, and complimentary of most. He says he reads Eat Out, Food24, JamieWho, Kim Maxwell, Tony Jackman, Michael Olivier and WhaleTales regularly, to stay up to date about what is being written about restaurants. While he wants to make sure that any mentions of Overture are positive, and he wants to learn more about his restaurant colleagues through these websites, he says that he does not care about reviews, because the success of his restaurant is purely measured by his bookings book. The summer season has been very good, mostly sold out, and so far the ‘green season’ has been better than last year.
One of his favourite restaurants is Restaurant Christophe (its foie gras in particular - read our review), and he raves about George Jardine’s new restaurant at Jordan, both in Stellenbosch.
At Overture a three course meal costs R 265, 4 courses R 315, 5 courses R 375, and 8 courses R 470. Pairing the courses to recommended wines costs extra. Each portion is roughly the same size, so that there is no differentiation between the size of a starter or a main course. In total, ten menu options are offered. The wine list has a choice of reasonably priced Hidden Valley and Lands End wines, which come from the wine estate, but Overture also offers a small collection of four Cap Classiques/champagnes, white and red wines, and dessert wines each. A special 4-course winter lunch menu is available at R 200, Tuesdays - Fridays.
We were spoilt by being served by the Maitre’d Kris van Zyl and the sommelier Kris Snyman. An amuse bouche was brought to the table on a wooden board, with a selection of coppa ham, sweet cream and onion, parmesan cheese straws, garlic aioli, and caviar salt. An olive roll was served with this, as was a refreshing glass of Graham Beck Brut Rose. A glass of Jordan Unwooded Chardonnay accompanied the first course, which was my favourite dish of the meal: cured salmon and kingklip terrine, a beautiful pink/white wheel, oyster beignet, and seared scallop in a sweetcorn and vanilla sauce. Tagliatelle, basil pesto, buffalo ridge mozarella and smoked aubergine puree, a symphony in green, was served with Aeternitas Blanc, a garagiste wine made by the Kanu winemaker after hours in his garage in the Strand. A matured entrecote with turnips and pomme fondant was paired with the Hidden Valley Gems, a Bordeaux style blend. When the dessert of chocolate torte, banana and banana sorbet was served, the sommelier brought two massive bottles of Bottega Chocolate Grappa, offering us a choice in white chocolate or dark chocolate. The glass bottles look less like alcoholic containers, and more like those for shampoo, and become a talking point at the table close by, being so unusual.
Our coffees were served with a collection of jugs, containing a most unusual vanilla syrup, grappa, and cardomon syrup, which one can add to one’s coffee, a nice touch. The ‘real’ Bertus came to the fore over coffee, and he talks almost emotionally about the new ‘addition to his family’, Patat his dog. One can hear the love for his pet when he speaks. He emphasises that Overture is family friendly, and he and his team will gladly prepare meals suitable for young guests.
I left Overture impressed with the slick operation which Bertus and his team runs. His staff appear happy, despite his reputation of being a tough boss, but he needs the best staff, to stay at the top. He sources the best products, and he has his hand firmly on his restaurant’s pulse, and is mostly in the kitchen himself. If there was anything to recommend, then it is to the Manager Kris to look a little less serious, and to smile more. I also found it hard to understand him explaining the elements of each dish, but was allowed to take the menu with me, to save me from having to write it all down. I know I will return to Overture regularly, and that Bertus and his team deserve better than joint 10th in this year’s Eat Out Top 10 restaurant awards list!
Overture Restaurant, Hidden Valley Wine Estate, Annandale Road, off R 44, Stellenbosch. Tel 021 880-2721. www.dineatoverture.co.za (the website is not very helpful, with barely any information, and an outdated menu of 12 March). Open for lunch Tuesdays - Sundays, and for dinner on Thursday and Friday evenings. Closed for a week for minor renovations from 10 May, re-opens on 18 May.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Aeternitas, Bertus Basson, Bottega Chocolate Grappa, chef, Chris von Ulmenstein, Eat Out, Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, Ernie Els, Food24, garagiste, George Jardine, Graham Beck, green season, Hidden Valley, JamieWho, Jordan, JP Rossouw, Kim Maxwell, Kris Snyman, Kris van Zyl, Lands End, Le Quartier Francais Tasting Room, Maitre'd, Margot Janse, Michael Olivier, Overture, restaurant, Restaurant Christophe, review, reviews, Rossouw's Restaurants, Rust en Vrede, sommelier, South Africa, Stellenbosch, Tony Jackman, Whale Cottage Portfolio, WhaleTales
Tue 13 Apr 2010
Cape Town’s restaurants are feeling the hospitality winter blues, with a large number of restaurants announcing their restaurant specials. The winter has claimed its casualties too, and there could be more in what has been a poor winter for many businesses.
La Mouette has opened at 78 Regent Road in Sea Point. Brio is a new jazz restaurant, in half of the ex-Riboville in town (on the Adderley Street side), while Liquorice and Lime has taken over the other half of Riboville (on the St George’s Mall side). Van Hunks has opened at 1 Union Street, off Kloof Street in Gardens. Cafe Nood has opened in Wilderness Road, Claremont. shu has opened next to Doppio Zero on Main Road, Green Point. Ryan’s Kitchen has opened at Rusthof guest house in Franschhoek - the chef Ryan Smith is ex-Mont Rochelle. On Broadway has moved to the New Space Theatre building at 44 Long Street, with a new restaurant where Anytime was. Buena Vista Social Club has moved to the top end of Portswood Road in the Waterfront. Madame Zingara has re-opened at Century City, after a two-year absence. The House of Meat has opened in the Pepper Club Hotel, corner Long and Bloem Streets, offering a full braai for R 295, from 3 pm every day. Amazink, ex-Roots, in Khayamandi in Stellenbosch, has opened, with Bertus Basson from Overture an advisor. Spiros has opened in Hout Bay. Mason’s Cafe & Grill has opened in the ex-Cafe Gainsbourg. La Cantina has opened in the Alliance Francaise. The De Leuwen Jagt restaurant on the Seidelberg wine estate outside Paarl has opened The Fabulous Bakery. Gesellig has opened on the corner of Church and Regent Roads in Sea Point, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chez d’Or has opened in Franschhoek, with Richard Carstens as consultant Chef, scheduled to stay until September, but he left on 28/7. It has been confirmed that Carstens will take over the running of Tokara in October, given that Etienne Bonthuys is set to open a new restaurant on Dorp Street in Stellenbosch. Gesellig is a cosy and friendly new eatery in Sea Point. The Restaurant at One&Only Cape Town has taken over from maze. Indochine has opened at the Delaire Graff wine estate in Stellenbosch. The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe has opened at Haskell Vineyards in Stellenbosch. The Wild Peacock Food Emporium has opened in Stellenbosch. Knife Restaurant has opened in the Crystal Towers Hotel & Spa, a sister restaurant to Fork. De Oude Bank Bakkerij has opened in Stellenbosch. Cafe Le Chocolatier has taken over from Cafe Vendome in Place Vendome in Franschhoek. Leaf Restaurant and Bar has opened where Portofino/The Showroom were located. Epicerie Fine is the new name of the L’Ermitage Deli in Franschhoek, and has a new owner. Sommelier Restaurant at the Sante Hotel and Wellness Centre has re-opened. Illyria coffee shop has opened in the Eikestad Mall in Stellenbosch. Babylonstoren is to open a restaurant in October, next door to Backsberg. The Fish Shack has opened at The Paddocks in Milnerton. Reubens at One&Only Cape Town opens on 1 October. Luigi’s from Hout Bay is said to be opening where Vista Mare was in The Promenade in Camps Bay. Satay Bar has taken over from Zucca in Kloof Street.
Portofino, which opened where The Showroom was, has closed its doors. The first review of Portofino appeared on this blog. Cafe Gainsbourg on Kloof Street, Anytime on Long Street, Josephine’s Patisserie, Ginja, maze at the One&Only Cape Town, La Table de France in Sea Point, Panarotti’s and Shimmi’s Bar in Hermanus, Miguel’s in Plettenberg Bay, and Bouillabaisse and La Brasserie in Franschhoek have also closed down. Camil Haas, the co-owner of Camil’s in the Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, has left the restaurant, but is doing food and wine pairing evenings in Franschhoek. Yum in Vredehoek has closed down. In Camps Bay the Cape Town Fish Market and Terra Mare have closed down. Luke Dale-Roberts is no longer the Executive Chef at La Colombe, but will consult to the restaurant. Tank in the old Cape Quarter is to get a new name. Cafe des Arts has taken over from Topsi’s in Franschhoek. Satay Bar has taken over from Zucca in Kloof Street.
Some restaurants are closing to have a winter break after the World Cup. Camil’s in Green Point re-opens on 1 September. The Mount Nelson’s Cape Colony re-opens with a new interior and new menu on 1 November. Reubens in Franschhoek is closing on certain dates due to business being so quiet, an unprecedented move: 3, 4, 10, 17, 18, 25, 26, 31 August and 1 September. Vaudeville is closing between August and October. Marianna’s in Stanford is re-opening on 14 October. Bistro 1682 is closing from 15 August - 5 September. The Salmon Bar in Franschhoek re-opens on 1 November, undergoing renovations in a new location (parts of ex-Bouillabaisse and Pam Golding venue). Massimo’s Pizza Club in Hout Bay has gone into winter hibernation, and is likely to reopen in November, in a new yet-to-be-announced venue in Hout Bay. Bistro 1682 re-opens from its break on 5 September. Rust en Vrede is closed from 3 - 28 September. The Sandbar in Camps Bay is closed until 16 September.
The following restaurant specials have been announced (NOTE: This Specials list is updated continuously). We have seen our list used without acknowledgement on other bloggers’ blogs - please acknowledge Whale Cottage Portfolio Blog as your source:
CAPE TOWN
* The Cru Cafe in the Cape Quarter: breakfast for 2 for R 85, 2 pasta dishes + 2 glasses of wine for R 119, all days of week, lunch and dinner, until 30 September
* Wang Thai: half-price sushi and cocktails, Mondays - Thursdays 12h00 - 18h00, at V&A Waterfront, Constantia, Somerset West, and Lagoon Beach branches
* Five Flies: Pay for one main course and get the other free, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, until September.
* Andiamo in the old Cape Quarter: R 49 breakfast special (juice, cooked breakfast, cappuccino), until 11h30 daily; 2 pizzas or 2 pastas with 2 glasses of wine R 125; Basil, chilli chicken/salmon salad with bottle of water or colddrink R 59, until 31 October. Tel (021) 421-3687
* Pure at Hout Bay Manor: 3 course dinner for R 220, and R 280 with a glass of wine added
* Catharina’s at Steenberg Hotel in Tokai: 2 course lunch at R 135, 3 course lunch R175/3 course dinner R195, May - September
* Vanilla in the Cape Quarter: 50% off the second person’s main course, and 1/2 price sushi 12 - 6 pm
* Tuscany Beach in Camps Bay - 50 % off second person’s main course, and 1/2 price sushi 12 - 6 pm, until August
* Pepenero in Mouille Point : sirloin and chips R 79, seafood platter R 129, prawn platter R 99, oysters R 9 each, half-price sushi
* Sinn’s Restaurant at Wembley Square: lunch (6 options) at R 50, including a glass of fruit juice. Dinner (5 options) at R 95, including a glass of wine.
* La Colombe : 3-course lunch at R 280 and 5-course dinner at R 380, with a carafe of wine, Mondays - Saturdays, May - September.
* Hussar Grill, in Camps Bay and Green Point: 1 kg ribs or kingklip plus chocolate mousse for R 99.
* Pepper Club on the Beach in Camps Bay: “Nip and Tuck promotion” - Prawn platter R98; Potjies R79,95; Sirloin and Prawn combo R89,50; Seafood platter R139,95; half-price sushi - until end September
* Kuzina in the new Cape Quarter: Meze platter for two plus bottle of wine R 189, Mondays - Fridays 12h00 - 18h00 and Sunday evenings from 18h00. Tel (021) 418-8000
* Saul’s Sushi@Vegas, 118 Main Road, Sea Point: “Eat as much as you like” sushi R 120 Mondays and Tuesdays, “two for the price of one” sushi Fridays and Saturdays
* Cape Town Fish Market: Salmon special, 1 course R 54,95, 2 courses R 69,95, 3 courses R 89,95. V&A Waterfront Cape Town, Parkview Pretoria. Eastgate Johannesburg, Hemingways East London.
* Cassis in Garden Centre: Lunch Box special - coffee/juice/colddrink + savoury tart (quiche/tomato tart/sandwich) + sweet tart = R 40, Mondays to Sundays
* Theo’s on Beach Road, Mouille Point: oysters R 6 each, 1 kg prawns R 99, line fish R79, for lunch and dinner. 300 gram sirloin steak, spatchcock chicken peri peri and 500 gram spare ribs all R 79 for lunch only. Tel (021) 439-3494.
* Salushi Intaba, 25 Protea Road, Claremont: 50 % off sushi on Mondays, Tuesdays and Sundays, from 12h00 - 17h00 (until end May), and other days of the week. Springroll + noodle dish R 70 on Wednesdays.
* Sevruga in the V&A Waterfront: Sole special, between R89 - R180, half price sushi 12h00 - 18h00 Mondays - Saturdays
* 1800 in the Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, Main Road, Green Point: Sparkling wine + 200 gram “Beef Wellington” + parking for R 99 (be warned - this is not a classic Beef Wellington - just a small fillet with a few chopped mushrooms and wrapped in pastry, no pate de foie gras). Until August.
* Myoga at Vineyard Hotel, Newlands: lunch: 2-courses R 95, 3-courses R 125, or salad or soup with bread at R 55, Mondays - Saturdays
* Myoga at Vineyard Hotel, Newlands: 6 course dinner for R 150, Mondays - Saturdays
* Tank in old Cape Quarter: 2 courses R R140, 3 courses for R 165, both with a glass of wine, until end September. Tel (021) 419-0007
* Beluga, The Foundry, Green Point: Prawn & Kingklip R 99, 24 sushi pieces for R 89. Tel (021) 418-2948.
* Butler’s Pizza, Newlands, Rondebosch, Wynberg, City Bowl, N1City, Bellville, Tableview: 3 pizzas for the price of 2; 2 medium pizzas + 4 toppings each at R 89.95; 2 large pizzas + 3 toppings each at R 109.95, Sundays - Thursdays.
* The Kove, Victoria Road, Camps Bay: 2-course meal with glass of wine R120; Fish and chips R 79, 400g ribs R75, Oysters R 9, Seafood Platter R129, Rump 250gm R 79, Rump 500gm R 109, 1kg of prawns R 99, Lamb chops R99. Tel (021) 438-0004
* St Elmo’s: 2 large regular pizzas cost R 105. 2 Dipping Strip pizzas and 3 dunking sauces R 99,90. On Tuesdays 2 large pizzas out of a choice of five cost R79,90. At lunch buy one pizza with Coke for R 29,90 Monday - Friday, until 16h00. Belgravia, Brackenfell, Claremont, Durbanville, Fishhoek, Gardens, Hout Bay, Kuilsriver, N1 Value, Paarl, Parow, Plumstead, Rondebosch, Somerset West, Stellenbosch, Strand, Tableview, Three Anchor Bay, Tokai, Tygervalley, Woodstock and Worcester.
* Cafe Sofia in Camps Bay, Green Point, etc: All pasta dishes R 49, 250 ml soup + ciabatta toast R 19.
* 221 Waterfront: two drinks for price of one, Mondays - Fridays, 16h30 - 18h30, two dishes on “Lite” and Sushi sections of menu for the price of one
* River Cafe, Constantia: four courses lunch + a carafe of wine R 195, 4 courses dinner + wine R 225. On Mondays to Thursday 1 child eats free, Mondays - Saturdays, May - September
* Diva Pizza, 81 Buitenkant Street: 2 pizzas + 2 toppings each take-away special price R 75
* Pastis in High Constantia Centre, Constantia: free glass of wine with meal.
* Trattoria Luigi in Hout Bay: margherita pizza plus Savanna for R 45 on Wednesdays. Mondays - Fridays pizza and pasta half price, until 31 August
* Constantia Uitsig: 3 courses and wine R 260 for lunch, and R 290 for dinner, until end September*
* Jakes in the Village/on Summerley, in Steenberg and Kenilworth, respectively: 25 % off all dishes, 5 - 7 pm only, Mondays - Saturdays, until end September
* Buitenverwachting in Constantia: 2 courses R 149, 3 courses R 169, 4 courses R 199, until 31 August
* Duchess of Wisbeach, corner Main and Wisbeach Roads, Sea Point - free bottle of wine for a table of four
* Salt, Ambassador Hotel, Bantry Bay : 2 courses R 140, 3 courses R 170, Mondays - Sundays, lunch and dinner
* Le Restau Paradiso, Kloof Street: Marie’s Menu 3 courses R 110; Capetonian Menu 3 courses R 130; French Classics Menu 3 courses R 150, until December.
* A Tavola in Claremont: 50 % off all pasta dishes on Mondays, prices reduced by R 4 - R14 per dish on menu (except for desserts)
* The Lookout Deck, Hout Bay: 1 kg tiger prawns R 125 (lunch and dinner), 6 oysters R 36 (5 - 7 pm only)
* La Mouette, Regent Road, Sea Point: 6 courses for R 175. Express Lunch - 2 courses (with 2 choices each) at R 99. Monday - Saturday dinner, Tuesday - Sunday lunch, September
* Blonde restaurant, Hatfield Street: “two …blondes are better than one” promotion of 33% off the bill, until September
* Lagoon Beach, Milnerton - 2 course meal from R 75, “all-you-can-eat” Sunday buffet R 99
* Jardine, Bree Street: 3-course dinner at R 150, Tuesdays - Saturdays
* The Round House in Camps Bay : 7 course menu for R 245, until 30 September
* Berthas in Simonstown: 1 kg mussels, 1 kg Queen prawns or 1 kg mini seafood platter cost R 99 each
* Ricks Cafe Americain, lunch special for R 39, Mondays - Saturdays, until 31 October
* The Square Restaurant, Vineyard Hotel, Newlands: 5-course dinner costs R 165. 2-course lunch R116, 3-course lunch R145. Tel (021) 657-4500
* Adega Sea Point, corner Main and Glengariff Roads:1 kg Tiger Medium prawns, R99. 300g Mozambican Pepper Fillet R79. Oysters R4,90. 21-piece Sushi Platter R 99. Lunch and dinner, until 31 August.
* Pepperclub Luxury Hotel & Spa: 6 oysters and a glass of bubbly R60, Fridays from 16h00, with jazz
* Aubergine: 2-course lunch R184, 3-course lunch R235, Wednesdays - Fridays
* Balducci’s: All pizzas (except Flaming Prawns) R49, 26-piece Platinum Sushi Plate for R99, Burgers from R55. Monday - Sunday, 12h00 - 18h00, until September.
* Ferrymans, V&A Waterfront: 3-course pairing meal, with wines matching starter and main course, at R200, until September.
* Bukhara : 2 course lunch or dinner plus glass of wine R125, Monday - Saturday, Sunday lunch
* Haiku: 2 course lunch or dinner plus glass of wine R125, Monday - Saturday, Sunday lunch
* Cafe Caprice, Victoria Road, Camps Bay: two burgers for the price of one, Mondays - Thursdays, 12h30 - 22h00
* Saul’s Taverna: for every meal ordered from main menu, the second person get’s a free main course from chef’s special menu
* Caviar Deli in the V&A Waterfront is offering 2 ready-made meals for R40 (one costs R25)
* Societi Bistro: “Tour of France” - 3-course French menu R 150, until October
* Chapman’s Peak Hotel, Hout Bay: 1kg Tiger Prawns R99; order 2 steaks, and get a bottle of wine and 2 Amarula creme brulees for free. Tel (021) 790-1036
* Quay 4: Snoek and chips R59, until October
* Black Marlin: Snoek on braai R55, half crayfish on braai R75, Saturdays and Sundays; 3 course meal plus glass of sherry R125, until October
* Hildebrand: 2 courses R 89, 3 courses R 120; 2 pastas for the price of one with a glass of wine, until September
* Chenin Restaurant and Bar: Sirloin steak R60, until September. Tel 021 425-2200
* Leaf Restaurant and Bar : 51 % (no typing error) off sushi from 11h00 - 16h00, and all day on Sunday.
* Cafe Chic: half-price off all dishes except Tapas, until 31 August.
* Gesellig, Regent Road, Sea Point: 2 courses plus soup or dessert = R 90 for dinner; lunch costs R40 for dishes usually costing R65 - R77 12h00 - 14h00
* The Fish Shack Restaurant and Wine Bar, Paddocks, Milnerton: Shack Platter and glass of wine R 90
* Blowfish in Blouberg: Seafood platter R 179, 20-piece sushi platter R99, 500g rump steak R 95, Lamb shank R95, Fish & chips R59, Prawn curry R69, Seafood Paella R79, until September. Tel 021 556-5464
* Ocean Basket: Starter, seafood platter, and bottle of Two Oceans wine for 2 for R 235 (only at Hout Bay, Plumstead, Tygervalley and V&A branches), until 31 October.
THE WINELANDS
* Reubens in Franschhoek : 3 course meal for R 150, or R 220 for a glass of wine per course. Mondays - Fridays, May until August. Tel (021) 876-3772
* D’Vine Restaurant at Willowbrook Lodge, Somerset West: 1 course R100, 2 courses R145, 3 courses R170, includes a glass of wine. Dinners only
* 96 Winery Road between Stellenbosch and Somerset West: 3-course meal plus a glass of wine for R 165, Mondays - Saturdays, lunch and dinner
* Terroir at Kleine Zalze, Stellenbosch: two-course meal at R 165, and 3-course meal at R 195, until the end of September
* Allee Bleue, outside Franschhoek: choice of four 250 gram steaks at R 99, including a glass of estate wine, May - September
* Allee Bleue, outside Franschhoek: 3 course meal plus a glass of wine, at R 130.
* Mont Rochelle Hotel in Franschhoek: 2006-priced 3-course dinner, each course accompanied with a glass of wine, as well as water, costs R 2006 for a party of six persons (R 334,33 per head).
* Olivello, Klapmuts, outside Stellenbosch: 2-course meal R 99, 3-course meal R 119.
* Mon Plaisir @ Chamonix in Franschhoek: 2 courses at R 170
* Le Bon Vivant in Franschhoek: 2-course meal for R 115, 3 courses for R 150
* iCi at Le Quartier Francais in Franschhoek: 2 courses cost R 120 and 3 courses R 150, Monday - Friday, until August
* Grand Provence in Franschhoek: Chef’s Table for 8 or more persons, 4 courses R 200 per person, June - August, lunch and dinner
* Warwick Winter Bistro, Warwick wine estate, Stellenbosch: Butternut soup R 30, Bobotie R 57, Steak and Mushroom pie R 70, Mushroom Risotto R 75. Mondays - Sundays.
* Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Jordan wine estate, Stellenbosch: 3 course Menu de Jour lunch R 180, R220 with 2 wines. 2-course a la carte lunch R 200, 3 courses R225. Wednesday - Saturday lunch, May - August
* Cuvee, Simonsig wine estate, outside Stellenbosch: 2 course lunch or dinner + glass of wine R 170, 3 courses R 200, August - October
* Clos Malverne wine estate outside Stellenbosch: autumn special - 2 course meal + quarter bottle of wine R 125, 3 course + half bottle of wine R 155, Tuesday - Saturday lunch and Wednesday and Friday dinner
* Bosman’s, Grand Roche Hotel, Paarl: 3-course lunch and 2 glassses of wine for R 260, Sundays
* Lanzerac Hotel in Stellenbosch : 2-course lunch R 145, 3 course lunch R 175, includes a glass of red wine. Chef’s soup of the day with rolls and house wine R 55. June - September
* Freedom Hill restaurant between Franschhoek and Paarl: 3 course meal and glass of wine R 150, Tuesdays - Sunday lunch, Tuesday - Saturday dinner, until end August
* French Connection, Franschhoek: 2 courses R 95 and three courses R 125
* Le Petite Ferme, Franschhoek: 2 courses R 100, 3 courses R 150, plus carafe of wine, every Friday evening
* Fyndraai at Solms-Delta wine estate: 2 course lunch R 135, 3 courses R 155.
* Ryan’s Kitchen at Rusthof, Franschhoek : 3 course meal and glass of wine at R 195, until August.
* Boschendal in Franschhoek: Buffet reduced cost R 145 (R 50 extra cost for dessert and cheeses)
* Noble Hill, Klapmuts: Farmer’s Lunch costs R 62, Mondays - Fridays
* Restaurant Christophe, Stellenbosch: business lunch - 2 courses R130, 3 courses R 150, Tuesday - Friday, served within one hour, all year
* Rickety Bridge Restaurant in the Vines in Franschhoek: 3 course lunch for R 150, and R25 extra for three Rickety bridge wines, paired per course. Monday - Sunday, until end September
* Allora in Franschhoek: 3 course winter menu at R89. Main course lunch plus live music plus ”drink” for R100 Saturday lunches. Tel (021) 876-4375.
* Epicerie Fine Deli/Coffee Shop, L’Ermitage, Franschhoek - bowl of pasta plus salad plus homemade bread plus glass of wine = R 45. Tel (021) 876-9200
OTHER AREAS
* Season in Hermanus: 2 course meal R 75, bredie of the day R 48, Sunday roast R 65, 3-course Sunday lunch R 110. Tel (028) 316-2854
* Mediterrea in Hermanus: 2-course R 105 and 3 course meal R 135, Monday - Thursday dinners and Sunday lunches, April - August
* Nguni in Plettenberg Bay: main course R 50, different every week, Wednesdays.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Copyright: Whale Cottage Portfolio
Tags: 1800, 221 waterfront, 96 Winery Road, A Tavola, Add new tag, Adega Sea Point, Allee Bleue, Allora, Amazink, Andiamo, Anytime, Aubergine, Backsberg, Balducci's, Beef Wellington, Beluga, Bertha's, Bertus Basson, Bistro 1682, Black Marlin, Blonde restaurant, Blowfish, Boschendal, Bosmans, Bouillabaisse, Brio, Buena Vista Social Club, Buitenverwachting, Bukhara, Butler's Pizza, Cafe Caprice, Cafe Chic, Cafe Gainsbourg, Cafe Le Chocolatier, Cafe Nood, Cafe' Sofia, Camil's, Camps Bay, Cape Colony, Cape Quarter, Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, Cape Town, Cape Town Fish Market, Cape Town Restaurant specials winter 2010, Cassis, Catharina's, Caviar deli, Chapman's Peak Hotel, Charly's Bakery, Chef's Table, Chenin Restaurant and Bar, Chez d'Or, Chris von Ulmenstein, Ci Casa at camil's, city center, Clos Malverne, Constantia Uitsig, Cormac Keane, Crystal Towers & Spa, De Oude Bank Bakkerij, De Waterkant, Delaire Graff, Delheim, Dutch East restaurant, Eikestad Mall, Epicerie Fine, Ferrymans, Five Flies, Fork, Franschhoek, Freedom Hill, French Connection, Fyndraai, Garden Centre, Gesellig, Ginja, Grand Provence, Grande Roche, Green Point, Haiku, Harbour House, Haute cabriere, Hermanus, Hidden Valley, Hildebrand, hospitality, House of Meat, Hout Bay, Hout Bay Manor, ici, Illyria, Indochine, Intimate Theatre, Jakes in the Village, Jakes on Summerley, Jardine, Jordan, Jordan restaurant, Josephine's Patisserie, Karoo lamb, Khayamandi, Klein Steenberg, Knife Restaurant, Kuzina, L'ermitage, La Brasserie, La Cantina, La Colombe, La Mouette, La Petite Tarte, La Table de France, Lagoon Beach, Le Bon Vivant, Le Petite Ferme, Le Quartier Francais, Le Restau Paradiso, Leaf Restaurant and Bar, Liquorice and Lime, Long Table Restaurant and Cafe, Luigi's, Luke Dale-Roberts, Madame Zingara, Mariana's, Marika's, Massimo's Pizza Club, Maze, Mediterrea, Miguels, Mon Plaisir, Mont Rochelle, Mount Nelson Hotel, Myoga, Newlands, Nguni, Noble Hill, noby, Ocean Basket, Olivello, On Broadway, One&Only Hotel, Overture, Paarl, Pam Golding, Panarotti's, Pastis, Pepper Club Hotel, Pepperclub on the Beach, Plettenberg Bay, Portofino, Pumphouse Shiraz, Pure, Quay 4, Restaurant Christophe, restaurant specials, Restaurant winter specials, restaurants, Reuben's at One&Only Cape Town, Reubens, Riboville, Richard Carstens, Rickety Bridge Restaurant in the Vines, Ricks Cafe Americain, Rumpsteak, Rusthof, Ryan's Kitchen, Salmon Bar, Sante Hotel and Wellness Centre, Satay Bar, Saul's Sushi@Vegas, Saul's Taverna, seafood platter, Season, Sevruga, Shimmi's Bar, shu, Sinns, Societi Bistro, sole, Solms Delta, Somerset West, Sommelier Restaurant, Spiros, St Elmo's, Steenberg, Stellenbosch, sushi, Terra Mare, terroir, The Cru Cafe, The Fish Shack, The Goose, The Grand, The Grand on the Beach, The House of Meat, The KOve, The Lookout Deck, The Restaurant at One&Only Cape Town, The Round House, The Roundhouse, The Showroom, The Square Restaurant, Tokara, Trattoria Luigi, Tuscany Beach, V&A Waterfront, Van Hunks, Vanilla, Vaudeville, Vineyard Hotel, Wang Thai, Warwick Winter Bistro, Waterkloof, Wembley Square, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Wild Peacock Food Emporium, winter restaurant specials, winter specials, World Cup, Yum, Zucca
Sat 27 Mar 2010
The “Taste of Cape Town” is in its third year, and its new location (it has had a different location every year) at the Rhodes High School in Mowbray is the best ever, with parking adjacent to the field on which the stands are set up. It is a wonderfully inexpensive and convenient way to taste one’s way through 19 of Cape Town’s, Franschhoek’s and Stellenbosch’s best (and some lesser good) restaurants.
Delegates at the S A Food Bloggers’ Conference received free entrance tickets to the “Taste of Cape Town” and only had to buy the crowns, which are the wine and food tasting currency. All wines and foods served cost between 4 - 8 crowns (R 20 - R 40).
With 18 restaurants present (as well as Camil’s serving oysters but being such a last minute stand it is not located with the other restaurants), it was not possible to taste all the dishes (each restaurant offered three choices in the main) at all the restaurant stands. My companion was our new Brazilian trainee Muriele Stefani, and we shared portions to allow us to taste a larger variety of foods:
* the highlight was Reuben’s prawn, rocket, yuzu dressing and wasabi cream, a mini-meal in itself, compared to the other stands, which mainly only served a piece of meat or fish without any other accompaniments. Impressively Reuben Riffel was in the makeshift “kitchen”, doing the hands-on preparation.
* Bistro Sixteen82, with chef Brad Ball, served a crispy panko crumbed fried crab, soft shell crab, with dressed pea shoots and smoked paprika aiolli
* Eric Bulpitt at Jardine Restaurant offered two very tasty Kroondal duck leg patties, which also contained pomegranate, celeriac, and walnut
* It was nice to meet hands-on Philip Carmichael from maze, who was taking orders rather than cooking. His peppered biltong consomme was the most attractive of all the dishes eaten, with a fried quail’s egg presented on top of the biltong consomme, with shaved biltong. The taste of the soup was disappointing, having a bean soup taste.
* At Nobu chef Hideki Maeda’s crispy pork belly with spicy miso was simply just that - nothing to distract from the compact dish.
* Grande Provence’s Darren Roberts served a ballantine of Elgin free-range chicken and lobster with white onion risotto. The lobster was nowhere to be seen, and gave the chicken a less-than-nice taste.
* From its name, Overture’s braised pig’s cheek, parsley pomme puree, carrots and gremolata was very popular, served by chef Craig Cormack. It was a very filling tasting portion.
* Overture’s chocolate mille-feuille and raspberry ice cream was a dreamy yet filling sweet end to a lovely tasting.
* A bonus was a chocolate cup filled with Nutella and topped with a cherry at the Southern Sun stand, with The Cullinan pastry chef Jean hand-making the lovely sweet treats at no charge. Macaroons and lemon meringue tartlets were also available for tasting.
Foodlovers will enjoy Pick ‘n Pay’s Fresh Living Chef’s Theatre, at which top chefs, including some of those with stands, do demonstrations, and Jenny Morris, the Giggling Gourmet, at the Checkers’ stand. The wine stands feel like “poor cousins”, receiving less attention than the restaurant stands, despite brands such as Hermanuspietersfontein, Thelema, Boschendal, Steenberg, Spier and many others being present.
What is lovely about the “Taste of Cape Town” is meeting up with other food and wine lovers. Some of the restaurant stands have a table and chairs, at which one can be lucky enough to sit to eat one’s tasting dish, and meet friends and acquaintances coming to the stand in this way. Reubens’ stand had its Franschhoek black-and-white checkered floor replicated as decor on one wall of the stand, and offered very comfortable white leather dining chairs.
Given the cooler weather, being wrapped up in a white blanket by a Heineken hunk at the end of the tasting and washing down all the lovely food with a Heineken was a lovely ending to a special evening.
Taste of Cape Town, Rhodes High School, off Klipfontein Road, Mowbray. Saturday 13h00 - 17h00, 18h30 - 22h30, and Sunday 12h00 - 17h00.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: "restaurant route", Bistro Sixteen82, Brad Ball, Camil's, Cape Town, Checkers, chefs, Chris von Ulmenstein, Craig Cormack, Darren Roberts, Eric Bulpitt, Franschhoek, Grande Provence, Heineken, Hermanuspietersfontein, Hideki Maeda, Jardine Restaurant, Jenny Morris, Maze, Nobu, Nutella, Overture, Philip Carmichael, Pick 'n Pay, restaurants, Reuben Riffel, Reubens, Rhodes High School, SA Food Bloggers' Conference, Southern Sun, Spier, Steenberg, Stellenbosch, Taste of Cape Town, The Cullinan, Thelema, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Wines
Thu 18 Mar 2010
Eighteen leading restaurants from Cape Town, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch will be on show at the “Taste of Cape Town” next week, which takes place from Wednesday 24 - Sunday 28 March at the Rhodes High School in Mowbray.
Leading restaurants which will be offering up to 3 interesting mini-dishes will be Bistro 1682, Cape Colony at the Mount Nelson Hotel, Ginja, Myoga, Grande Provence, Jardine, Le Quartier Francais, Bread & Wine, Overture, The Greenhouse and Reubens. Interestingly the One&Only Cape Town restaurants Nobu and Maze will also be presenting a taste of their dishes. Odd is that restaurants that cannot be compared to the gourmet level of those mentioned already are also part of the ‘Taste of Cape Town’: Wang Thai, Societi Bistro, Gold, Signal at Cape Grace, and Il Leone Mastrantonio.
“Taste of Cape Town” is a franchised event, that will also be held in Johannesburg, London, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Auckland, Sydney, Milan, Amsterdam, Melbourne, Dublin, and Dubai in 2010.
Dishes to be tasted are paid for in crowns, and each restaurant can name its price ranging between 4 - 8 crowns (or R 20 - R 40). Tickets can be bought at Computicket, either for R 80 for just the entrance, or at R 170 for entrance and crowns to the value of R 100.
Taste of Cape Town, 24 - 27 March from 18h30 - 22h30, as well as 13h00 - 17h00 on 27 March, and 12h00 - 17h00 on 28 March. www.tasteofcapetown.com
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Amsterdam, Auckland, Birmingham, Bistro 1682, Bread & Wine, Cape Colony, Cape Town, Chris von Ulmenstein, Computicket, Dubai, Dublin, Edinburgh, Franschhoek, Ginja, Gold, Grande Provence, Il Leone, Jardine, Johannesburg, Le Quartier Francais, London, Maze, Melbourne, Mount Nelson Hotel, Myoga, Nobu, Overture, restaurants, Reubens, Rhodes High School, Signal, Societi Bistro, Stellenbosch, Sydney, Taste of Cape Town 2010, The Greenhouse, Wang Thai, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Thu 14 Jan 2010
Christophe Dehosse is a passionate owner of his new Restaurant Christophe in the ‘Skuinshuis’ on Van Reyneveld Street in Stellenbosch, adding further weight to the prediction that Stellenbosch will soon wear the crown of the gourmet centre of South Africa His restaurant joins an illustrious collection of restaurants in this Winelands town, which includes Rust en Vrede, Overture, and Delaire Graff. The restaurant opened a month ago.
Dehosse first started cooking at Chamonix in Franschhoek, then was the chef at Au Jardin in the Vineyard Hotel, and moved to Joostenberg Deli nine years ago to join the Myburgh family he has married into, running a good value for money lunchtime restaurant there. While he was very low key at Joostenberg, JP Rossouw of Rossouws’ Restaurants awarded the restaurant his highest rating of 3 stars, awarded to such greats as Reubens, La Colombe, and Rust en Vrede. Le Quartier Francais did not even make his 3-star grade. Christophe speaks with a delightful French accent, and epitomises the French chef. What reflected his passion was that he spent more time with the patrons, after having done all the main courses, chatting at length at their tables, something rarely seen in restaurants these days. He even takes the bookings during the day. Chef Dane Newton of Allee Bleue also understands the art of connecting with his clients.
While his wife continues at Joostenberg, Christophe has set up in the building which also houses a coffee shop, and a décor shop. The transformation of the part of the building that he uses is almost unbelievable. It is a two-room restaurant, the entrance section having three tables and the other section almost three times in size, giving the restaurant the choice of where to seat the guests. Christophe proudly compliments interior designer Liesel Rossouw for the understated yet chic interior. The subtle green walls, tastefully decorated with beautiful works of art which can be bought, and shocking pink and orange chairs (with 5 colour variations) made from wine barrels especially made for the restaurant to give patrons a comfortable seat during the meal. The lamps are unusual too – they are made from woven laminated ads, creating an unusual effect. A simple metal structure serves as the desk at the entrance – slick and simply designed.
It having been a 42C day, and still hot at mid-30C in the evening, all patrons chose to sit outside. The tables were beautifully laid with white tablecloths, silverware, and glassware, and each table had a fresh rose on it. A lovely flower arrangement, in white and pink flowers, was the first statement the restaurant made on arrival. A single palm tree towers above the courtyard, and an almost wild bougainvilla hedge in shocking pink complements the pink and orange chairs.
Darren is the Manager, and he was very friendly in welcoming us, and patiently answered all the questions. He is from Birmingham, and last worked at Umami in Stellenbosch. He served all the tables.
The menu is very simply typed on a piece of paper, and looks unpretentious, and almost contradicts the lovely interior and special food served. It is short, offering four starter choices: quail salad (R 65), seafood salad (R 65), foie gras with Noble Late aspic (R130), and marinated vegetables and goat’s cheese (R 50). The foie gras was outstanding, and a surprise was the complimentary glass of Joostenberg Nobel Late Harvest, served well-chilled with it.
Five main courses were Cape Salmon (R 95), yellowtail (R 95), Bouillabaisse (R 110), beef fillet (R 135), and roast duck jambonette (R 110). The steak was pronounced to be excellent, while the duck was disappointing, probably due to a duck lover’s experience of ‘roasted’ being different to that served. The dessert choice costs R 45, and was apricot and almond tart, chocolate biscuit, and chilled fresh fruit soup, which would have been ideal for such a hot evening, but space did not allow it. A cheese selection is available at R 60. The fruit soup was a berry berry nice lunch the following day. The menu changes every two weeks.
The winelist is equally printed on white paper, and is unlikely to win a mention in the Diner’s Club winelist awards as far as presentation is concerned. It is very understated, yet offers a good selection of South African and even some French wines. A full page is devoted to sparkling wines, Graham Beck supplying the least and most expensive bottles, at R 150 – R 290. It can also be ordered by the glass, in a price range of R 22 – R 35. The Joostenberg wines appear in almost every category, as does a brand not commonly known, called MAN, named after three Myburgh ladies: Marie, Annette and Nicky. Jose Conde’s wines also feature on the wine list, as do Thelema (R 600 for Cabernet Sauvignon) , Klein Constantia, Kanonkop (Pinotage at R 480), Veenwouden (Merlot at R 420), Hartenberg (Shiraz at R 490), Hamilton Russell (Chardonnay at R 350), Paul Cluver, Simonsig and Villiera.
Restaurant Christophe, Skuinshuis side entrance, Van Reyneveld Street, between Nook Eatery and the synagogue, Stellenbosch, tel 021 886-8763.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
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