Entries tagged with “La Colombe”.
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Thu 14 Jan 2010
Christophe Dehosse is a passionate owner of his new Restaurant Christophe in the ‘Skuinshuis’ on Van Reyneveld Street in Stellenbosch, adding further weight to the prediction that Stellenbosch will soon wear the crown of the gourmet centre of South Africa His restaurant joins an illustrious collection of restaurants in this Winelands town, which includes Rust en Vrede, Overture, and Delaire Graff. The restaurant opened a month ago.
Dehosse first started cooking at Chamonix in Franschhoek, then was the chef at Au Jardin in the Vineyard Hotel, and moved to Joostenberg Deli nine years ago to join the Myburgh family he has married into, running a good value for money lunchtime restaurant there. While he was very low key at Joostenberg, JP Rossouw of Rossouws’ Restaurants awarded the restaurant his highest rating of 3 stars, awarded to such greats as Reubens, La Colombe, and Rust en Vrede. Le Quartier Francais did not even make his 3-star grade. Christophe speaks with a delightful French accent, and epitomises the French chef. What reflected his passion was that he spent more time with the patrons, after having done all the main courses, chatting at length at their tables, something rarely seen in restaurants these days. He even takes the bookings during the day. Chef Dane Newton of Allee Bleue also understands the art of connecting with his clients.
While his wife continues at Joostenberg, Christophe has set up in the building which also houses a coffee shop, and a décor shop. The transformation of the part of the building that he uses is almost unbelievable. It is a two-room restaurant, the entrance section having three tables and the other section almost three times in size, giving the restaurant the choice of where to seat the guests. Christophe proudly compliments interior designer Liesel Rossouw for the understated yet chic interior. The subtle green walls, tastefully decorated with beautiful works of art which can be bought, and shocking pink and orange chairs (with 5 colour variations) made from wine barrels especially made for the restaurant to give patrons a comfortable seat during the meal. The lamps are unusual too – they are made from woven laminated ads, creating an unusual effect. A simple metal structure serves as the desk at the entrance – slick and simply designed.
It having been a 42C day, and still hot at mid-30C in the evening, all patrons chose to sit outside. The tables were beautifully laid with white tablecloths, silverware, and glassware, and each table had a fresh rose on it. A lovely flower arrangement, in white and pink flowers, was the first statement the restaurant made on arrival. A single palm tree towers above the courtyard, and an almost wild bougainvilla hedge in shocking pink complements the pink and orange chairs.
Darren is the Manager, and he was very friendly in welcoming us, and patiently answered all the questions. He is from Birmingham, and last worked at Umami in Stellenbosch. He served all the tables.
The menu is very simply typed on a piece of paper, and looks unpretentious, and almost contradicts the lovely interior and special food served. It is short, offering four starter choices: quail salad (R 65), seafood salad (R 65), foie gras with Noble Late aspic (R130), and marinated vegetables and goat’s cheese (R 50). The foie gras was outstanding, and a surprise was the complimentary glass of Joostenberg Nobel Late Harvest, served well-chilled with it.
Five main courses were Cape Salmon (R 95), yellowtail (R 95), Bouillabaisse (R 110), beef fillet (R 135), and roast duck jambonette (R 110). The steak was pronounced to be excellent, while the duck was disappointing, probably due to a duck lover’s experience of ‘roasted’ being different to that served. The dessert choice costs R 45, and was apricot and almond tart, chocolate biscuit, and chilled fresh fruit soup, which would have been ideal for such a hot evening, but space did not allow it. A cheese selection is available at R 60. The fruit soup was a berry berry nice lunch the following day. The menu changes every two weeks.
The winelist is equally printed on white paper, and is unlikely to win a mention in the Diner’s Club winelist awards as far as presentation is concerned. It is very understated, yet offers a good selection of South African and even some French wines. A full page is devoted to sparkling wines, Graham Beck supplying the least and most expensive bottles, at R 150 – R 290. It can also be ordered by the glass, in a price range of R 22 – R 35. The Joostenberg wines appear in almost every category, as does a brand not commonly known, called MAN, named after three Myburgh ladies: Marie, Annette and Nicky. Jose Conde’s wines also feature on the wine list, as do Thelema (R 600 for Cabernet Sauvignon) , Klein Constantia, Kanonkop (Pinotage at R 480), Veenwouden (Merlot at R 420), Hartenberg (Shiraz at R 490), Hamilton Russell (Chardonnay at R 350), Paul Cluver, Simonsig and Villiera.
Restaurant Christophe, Skuinshuis side entrance, Van Reyneveld Street, between Nook Eatery and the synagogue, Stellenbosch, tel 021 886-8763.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Allee Bleue, Au Jardin, Chamonix, Christophe Dehosse, Conde, Dane Newton, Delaire Graff, Diner's Club winelist awards, Franschhoek, Gourmet, Graham Beck, Hamilton-Russell, Hartenberg, Joostenberg Deli, Joostenberg wines, Jose Conde, JP Rossouw, Kanonkop, Klein Constantia, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Liesel Rossouw, MAN, Myburgh, Nook Eatery, Overture, Paul Cluver, Restaurant Christophe, restaurants, Reubens, Rossouw's Restaurants, Rust & Vrede, Simonsig, Skuinshuis, Stellenbosch, Thelema, Umami, Veenwouden, Villiera, Winelands
Mon 23 Nov 2009
The Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list can make, or break, restaurants, and so the tension in the ballroom of the Westin Grand Hotel in Cape Town was high when the top restaurant awards were announced last night.
Eat Out editor Abigail Donnelly indicated that the choice for this year’s Top 10 was very tough, and clarified that a chef owning more than one restaurant (e.g. Reuben Riffel) could be eligible for an award, as could a chef who will spend more time away from his namesake restaurant (George Jardine), at his new Country Restaurant at Jordan winery in Stellenbosch. In recent years a Top 20 list is announced a few months prior to the November highlight, and this year the new players on this list were The Round House in Camps Bay (who bravely stated at their inception that they want to be the best restaurant in Africa, and who are very Big Brother as far as observing their patrons is concerned), the Green House in the Cellars Hohenhort hotel, and Carne.
The scoring for the restaurants was 70 % for the food, 20 % for the service and 10 % for the ambiance. Restaurants had to have operated for a minimum of a year to be considered, the owner and the chef had to show a passion for their business, they had to show a dedication to uplift the industry, they had to show that quality sourcing of their supplies is important, and consistency and excellence had to be their foundation.
The winners of the 2010 Prudential Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards are as follows, in order of rank:
1. La Colombe in Constantia
2. Restaurant Mosaic in Pretoria
3. Rust en Vrede Restaurant in Stellenbosch
4. Terroir in Stellenbosch
5. The Roundhouse in Camps Bay
6. The Restaurant at Grande Provence in Franschhoek
7. The Green House at the Cellars in Constantia
8. Roots in Johannesburg
9. 9th Avenue Bistro in Durban
10. Overture in Stellenbosch and the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek.
The tension, excitement and shock was felt by all when the winners were announced. The first surprise of the evening was that Abigail Donnelly, the editor of Eat Out magazine, had created two new Award categories, in which only she had a say in the winners. The Best Country Kitchen Award went to a perennial favourite - Marianna’s in Stanford - while, very surprisingly, the other new category was Best Bistro, which was won by Bizerca Bistro in Cape Town, a top 20 Award finalist. This made it clear that Bizerca would not make the Top 10 Eat Out Awards list for 2010. Many heads were shaking, and it sounded as if Bizerca had won a consolation prize.
The next shock was that the 10th place winner was a jointly placed Overture and the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, once again sounding as if the judges could not decide which of the two restaurants to drop into 11th position, making both these restaurants joint 10th winners, and thus creating an Eat Out Top 11 Restaurants Awards this year! The list also created a stir in that Jardine fell out of the top list completely (from number 2 last year), as did Hartford House. La Colombe, 9th Avenue Bistro, Mosaic, Terroir, The Tasting Room, Roots and Overture were all on the Top 10 restaurant list last year. Restaurants that were on the Top 20 list, but which did not make the Top 10 list, are Reubens, Carne, Aubergine, Bread and Wine, The Food Barn, Hartford House, Zachary’s, Bizerca Bistro and Jardine.
Chantel Dartnall of Mosaic won the Chef of the Year award. Rust en Vrede won the Service Excellence award.
Cape Town and the Winelands retain their reputation as the gourmet centre of South Africa, three awards going to Cape Town and Stellenbosch restaurants each, and two to Franschhoek restaurants.
The 5-star Westin Grand Hotel disappointed hugely as the venue hosting an awards evening recognising the best of gourmet cooking and service in South Africa. Its standards have dropped significantly compared to the slick function a year ago. Luke warm waters and white wines were served, the service staff were initially unable to cope, and the airconditioning did not operate at an acceptable level.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio : www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 9th Avenue, Abigail Donnelly, Aubergine, Best Bistro, Best Country Kitchen, Bizerca Bistro, Bread and Wine, Cape Town, Carne, Cellars-Hohenhort Hotel, Chantel Dartnall, Chef of the Year, Chris von Ulmenstein, Country Restaurant at Jordan winery, Franschhoek, George Jardine, Gourmet, Hartford House, La Colombe, Mariana's, Overture, Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant awards, Restaurant Mosiac, restaurants, Reuben Riffel, Reubens, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Service Excellence Award, Stellenbosch, terroir, The Food Barn, the Green House, The Restaurant at Grande Provence, The Roundhouse, The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, Westin Grand Hotel, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Winelands, Zachary's
Tue 10 Nov 2009
The 2010 edition of Rossouw’s Restaurants, an independent restaurant guide that judges restaurants informally from 1 - 3 stars, has just been launched. It includes a few surprises in its inclusions, and more importantly exclusions, in its 3-star top restaurant list, coming just 13 days before the announcement of the 2010 Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards.
The biggest shock is the exclusion of Le Quartier Francais’ Tasting Room in the 3-star restaurant category, but is designated as “bubbling under” by the author JP Rossouw. Other “bubbling under” restaurants include Terroir, a long-standing Eat Out Top 10 restaurant, new restaurant The Roundhouse (on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist), Belthazar in the V&A Waterfront, The Greenhouse at the Cellars Hohenhort (on the top 20 shortlist for the Eat Out Top 10), and Mosaic (on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist).
In total 14 restaurants have been awarded 3-stars by Rossouw, of which 8 are in the Cape Town and Winelands areas: Aubergine, Bizerca, Jardine, Joostenberg Bistro (a surprise!), La Colombe, Overture, Reuben’s, and Rust en Vrede. (All of these restaurants, with the exception of the Joostenberg Bistro, are on the Eat Out Top 10 shortlist). The remaining 3-star winners are Ile de Pain and Zachary’s in Knysna (the latter is Eat Out Top 10 shortlisted), Mariana’s in Stanford, Ritrovo in Pretoria and The Butcher Shop & Grill and Thomas Maxwell Bistro in Johannesburg.
Rossouw defines a 3-star restaurant as one that “shines in its price point and offers a truly special food experience…. it’s the all-round feeling of pleasure that’s created by a lovely space, warm hospitality, good service, and crackerjack food. Track record is also important : three star restaurants should consistently deliver on their promise”.
Rossouw has dropped the controversial 2009 3-star Magica Roma from the 3-star list in his latest guide, for which he received much criticism. Comments left on Rossouw’s website are critical of his treatment of Le Quartier Francais, given that it is a Top 50 restaurant in the world, but Rossouw was prepared for the question: “The Tasting Room’s move from three stars in 2009 to two stars in 2010 was not a decision easily made, but it was certainly not influenced by what other reviews/guides/Top 50’s say”. Rossouw adds that he is guided by customer reviews he receives, but the final score is his. See full details here.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portoflio http://www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Aubergine, Belthazar, Bizerca, Cape Town, cellars Hohenhort, Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant Awards, Ile de Pain, Jardine, Joostenberg Bistro, JP Rossouw, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Magica Roma, Mariana's, Mosaic, Overture, Reubens, Ritrovo, Rosouw's Restaurants 2010, Rust en Vrede, Tasting Room, terroir, The Butcher Shop & Grill, The Greenhouse, The Roundhouse, Thomas Maxwell Bistro, Top 50 restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Winelands, Zachary's
Thu 29 Oct 2009
This week marks the official launch of two competing but neighbouring restaurants in the new Cape Quarter extension on Somerset Road in De Waterkant. Cru Cafe’ (see review here) has been open since the beginning of the month, but celebrated its launch on Tuesday. Vanilla has also opened, and its launch evening is on Friday. In general, these are the two ’serious’ restaurants in this new lifestyle centre, that is set to take off as Capetonians discover its unique combination of high quality shops. Lazari is a restaurant that disappointed on a first visit, with a shrieking pink interior, and the restaurant staff and the patrons being unsure as to which of their two terraces are for smokers and non-smokers! The visible food preparation area when one enters the restaurant is enough to put one off from entering and sitting down!
This week saw the opening of the long-awaited Crepe et Cidre in Franschhoek, near Huguenot Fine Chocolates. It belongs to Robert Maingard, the largest hospitality owner in the village, also owning Le Franschhoek, and Dieu Donne, and he is also set to open a sports bar in the old station building soon. He is opening two further restaurants in Franschhoek, on opposite sides of the main road, when he completes the malls next year, one being on the current Pick ‘n Pay site and the other on the site where the Huguenot Hotel was located. Crepe et Cidre will be run by Gerhard van Staden, previously chef of the Le Franschhoek. The creperie has “imported” Yann Guyonvarch from Brittany in France to train the staff in crepe-making. His true French accent is a delight, but his stay will be a short 2 weeks. Imported French cider is served.
At La Brasserie in Franschhoek, the Friday jazz evenings will start again tomorrow (30 October), and the opening session will be dedicated to the launch of a CD ‘Tribute to Alex van Heerden’, who played with the Cape Dutch Connection, and passed away tragically.
In Hermanus the new Hermanos restaurant has opened in the building in which Joubert restaurant operated before closing down earlier this year, with a new chef and owner Wayne Spencer. He was originally the Executive Chef at Birkenhead House in Hermanus, and at Phinda Game Reserve, and worked at the Michelin-starred Port Palace in Monaco. He says of his new restaurant that it is fine-dining but that it is not intimidating, and he will not place a lot of emphasis on plating the food. He intends to come out of the kitchen, to chat to his guests, which is commendable - too few chefs do so. The menu is small, with 5 starters (R36 - 48), 7 mains (R68 - R 110), and 4 desserts (ranging betwen R 30 - R 40), and sounds interesting. The winelist is more extensive, and is very proudly-Hermanus. The restaurant is open Mondays to Saturdays for dinner only initially, and can be booked at tel 028 313-1916.
The Seafood at The Marine restaurant in Hermanus was a pleasant surprise earlier this week, when the most delicious kingklip was served. The restaurant offers a choice of two courses at R 180 and 3 courses cost R 215. A number of irritations on arrival - struggling to find the booking on the reservation list and a wobbly table - were sorted out when addressed, and the Relais & Chateaux crested butter arrived rock hard, so much so that it was unspreadable. The restaurant has no ambiance, it being too brightly lit and it not having any attempt at a decor focus. But the food cooks, and the hand of Executive Chef Peter Tempelhoff, a previous Eat Out Top Ten chef whilst at Grande Provence, is evident. The biggest surprise was the presentation of three scoops of ice cream on a block of ice, serving a functional as well as an aesthetic role. The whale-shaped biscuit served with the coffee, whilst not new, remains a cute and clever touch. The service is friendly and willing, and a miscommunication between the waiter and the kitchen was quickly rectified. No senior management was visible all evening. The cloakrooms are most disappointing for a five-star hotel, and the owner Liz McGrath would do well to invest some monies in upgrading these at The Marine.
The speculation in a previous WhaleTales blog post that Ginja is to move to New Church Street (between Buitengracht and Kloofnek Roads), into the previous Relish and Nova restaurant space, has been confirmed by the EatOut website. “Executive Chef Chris Erasmus will continue the Ginja legacy with his playful take on gastronomy, abundant with colour, texture and taste - using the finest local produce”, the website says.
Allee Bleue in Franschhoek is hosting its first Sushi and wine-pairing evening on Friday 6 November, at R 195, with a miso soup and tempura prawn starter, and five main sushi courses, each paired with a different Allee Bleue wine. The dessert is a green tea brulee. Chef Dane Newton, previously at Chamonix, is known in Franschhoek for his sushi. In addition to Allee Bleue’s Bistro, the new Winetasting Courtyard 5-item menu, and the scrumptious picnic baskets, a small beer garden menu is also available to be enjoyed with the Paulaner draught beer served at the lower end of the estate.
Jordan wine estate is opening its The Restaurant at Jordan on 21 November. The e-mail sent to announce the opening looks amateurish, and is an instant turn-off, as one is asked to commit to the food one would like to eat on that day, and the exact time slot in which one would like to eat it in. Payment must also be done by bank transfer prior to arrival. For a weekend treat, a visit to a wine estate is enjoyed in leisurely fashion, without being so prescriptive! George Jardine of Jardine is the new chef of the country restaurant.
Cafe’ Sofia is boldly advertising its seven branches (Green Point, Camps Bay, Sea Point, Rondebosch, Gardens, Greenside and Blouberg) in a striking half-page advertisement: “Come and experience our new 2010 menu, the best breakfast in town or Happy Hour Cocktails. You may be in for a surprise”. The Happy Hour cocktails are priced at R 25 for cocktails and R 15 for beer on tap between 17h00 - 19h00, while breakfasts range from R 19 - R 29.
It was a food book launch week last week, with“Franschhoek Food”, written by Myrna Robbins, featuring the main chefs of Franschhoek’s restaurants, and some of their favourite restaurant menu recipes, as well as wine pairing suggestions. “South Africa On a Plate” was also launched, a book featuring restaurants that deduct R 5 off the patron’s bill to go toward the Streetsmart charity. A three-course dinner suggestion, with the recipes, is featured for each restaurant. Grande Provence, Cafe’ 1999, Jewel of India, Auberge Michel, Ginga, Haiku, Rust en Vrede, Jardine, La Colombe, Ninth Avenue Bistro, Myoga, Mosaic, Bosman’s, Hartford House, Roots, The Saxon, Ile Maurice, and Terroir are some of the restaurants included in the book. The inspiration for the book comes from Jess Meredith-Watts and his fiance’ Louise, who were touched by beggars on the streets, and felt that they could make a difference, by giving all the profits of the book sales to the Streetsmart charity. More details about the book are available here.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 'Franschhoek Food', 'South Africa on a Plate', Alex van Heerden, Allee Bleue, Auberge Michel, Birkenhead House, Bosmans, Cafe' 1999, Cafe' Sofia, Cape Dutch Connection, Cape Quarter, Chamonix, Chris Erasmus, Chris von Ulmenstein, Crepe et Cidre, creperie, Cru Cafe, Dane Newton, Dieu Donne, Franschhoek, George Jardine, Gerhard van Staden, Ginja, Grande Provence, Haiku, Hartford House, Hermanos, Hermanus, Huguenot Fine Chocolates, Ile Maurice, Jardines, Jess Meredith-Watts, Jewel of India, Jordan wine estate, La Brasserie, La Colombe, LAZARI, Le Franschhoek, Mosaic, Myoga, Myrna Robbins, Ninth Avenue Bistro, Nova, openings, Paulaner, Peter Tempelhoff, Phinda, Pick 'n Pay, Relish, restaurants, Robert Maingard, Roots, Rust en Vrede, Seafood at the Marine, Streetsmart, sushi and wine-pairing, terroir, The Restaurant at Jordan, The Saxon, Vanilla, Wayne Spencer, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Thu 1 Oct 2009
Sixteen of the 20 finalists on the Prudential Eat Out Restaurant Awards list, from which the Top 10 list will be selected at the Awards function on 22 November, are from Cape Town and the Western Cape, proving that the Cape is the Gourmet Centre of the country.
Eight finalists are from Cape Town alone, four are from Franschhoek and three are from Stellenbosch.
The three Stellenbosch finalists all made the Top 10 list last year - Terroir, Overture and Rust & Vrede. Franschhoek’s finalists are Reubens (Top Chef and Top Restaurant winner five years ago), The Restaurant at Grande Provence, Bread & Wine, and The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais (the only current Top 10 restaurant in Franschhoek). All the Franschhoek finalists have been previous Top 10 winners.
New entrants to the Top 20 list, having been open for more than a year, are Carne, The Greenhouse at The Cellars Hohenhort, and The Roundhouse, all based in Cape Town. All other finalists were finalists last year as well.
Finalists of last year that did not make the Top 20 list this year are The Showroom (closed down earlier this year and now houses Portofino), Myoga, The Saxon (chef Rudi Liebenberg has moved to The Mount Nelson Hotel) and Linger Longer.
The full list of Top 20 finalists is as follows:
1. 9th Avenue Bistro, Durban
2. Aubergine, Cape Town
3. Bizerca Bistro, Cape Town
4. Bread and Wine, Franschhoek
5. Carne SA, Cape Town
6. The Foodbarn, Cape Town
7. The Greenhouse at The Cellars-Hohenort, Cape Town
8. Hartford House, Mooi River, KZN
9. Jardine, Cape Town
10. La Colombe, Cape Town
11. Mosaic Restaurant, Pretoria
12. Overture, Stellenbosch
13. The Restaurant at Grande Provence, Franschhoek
14. Reuben’s Restaurant & Bar, Franschhoek
15. Roots, Johannesburg
16. The Roundhouse, Cape Town
17. Rust en Vrede, Stellenbosch
18. Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français, Franschhoek
19. Terroir, Stellenbosch
20. Zachary’s, Knysna
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 9th Avenue Bistro, Aubergine, Bizerca Bistro, Bread & Wine, Cape Town, Carne, Chris von Ulmenstein, Franschhoek, Gourmet Centre, Hartford House, Jardine, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Linger Longer, Mosaic Restaurant, Mount Nelson, Myoga, Overture, Portofino, Prudential Eat Out Top 10, restaurants, Reubens, Roots, Rudi Liebenberg, Rust & Vrede, Stellenbosch, terroir, The Foodbarn, The Greenhouse at The Cellars Hohenhort, The Restaurant at Grande Provence, The Roundhouse, The Saxon, The Showroom, The Tasting Room, Whale Cottage Portfolio, Zachary's
Wed 23 Sep 2009
The winelist of maze at One&Only Cape Town has won the Best Winelist overall in the 2009 Diner’s Club Winelist Awards.
Cape Town restaurants made a clean sweep, by winning each of the Winelist Award categories, including Best Platinum winelist, which was won by Jardine, Best Gold winelist was won by Tuscany Beach, and Best Silver winelist was won by Boulder’s Beach (shared with Casa Toscana). Best Wine Steward/Sommelier was announced as Pearl Oliver at Catharina’s at the Steenberg Hotel. Ben’s on the Beach in Strand won in the Best New Entry category.
The maze winelist is a 35 page document, which documents wine by region and then by variety, an irritation for a winelover wishing to choose a wine by variety firstly. It is impressive due to the extensiveness of the wine range offered.
The top Cape winelist winners are maze, Bushman’s Kloof, Poplars, Flavours, Belthazar, Karibu, Catharina’s, The Square, The Plettenberg Bay Hotel, Bosman’s, Marc’s Mediterranean Cuisine, Westin Executive Club, Panama Jacks, Emily’s, Myoga, Ellerman House, Signal, Blowfish, Zachary’s, The Cellar’s Hohenhort Hotel, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Asara, Cape Malay restaurant, Azure, The Atlantic Grill, The Kove, Rodwell House and Nobu.
Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 2009 Diner's Club Winelist, Asara, Azure, Belthazar, Ben's on the Beach, Blowfish, Bosmans, Boulders' Beach, Bushman's Kloof, Cape Malay, Cape Town, Casa Toscana, Catharina's, Ellerman House, Emily's, Flavours, Jardine, karibu, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Marc's, Maze, Myoga, Nobu, One&OnlyCape Town, Panama Jacks, Pearl Oliver, Poplars, restaurants, Rodwell House, Signal, Steenberg Hotel, The Atlantic Grill, The Cellar's Hohenhort Hotel, The KOve, The Plettenberg Bay Hotel, The Square, Tuscany Beach, Westin Excecutive Club, Whale Cottage Portfolio, winelist, Zachary's
Sat 5 Sep 2009
A week ago I heard about Portofino opening in the ex-Showroom space at a dinner party, and all I could find out was that an unknown Irish 30-something, with no previous restaurant experience, by the name of Cormac Keane, was opening the restaurant. I googled his name, and there were no entries for him. I bumped into Vaughn Johnson, and he told me that he is doing Portofino’s winelist. The opening date was vague, being sometime this week.
On Thursday evening I drove by, coming from a concert close by, at 10 pm. The security guard assured me that the restaurant was open. I went in, unsure if it had indeed opened, and whether I would be welcomed at that time of night. The door was opened by Keane himself, and I received a most hearty welcome. He was intrigued about what I had heard about him, and sat down to chat, sharing some of his story with me. I noticed his red sneakers immediately and told him that they reminded me of David Kramer’s red velskoens, but he had not heard of Kramer. The shoes stand out in the otherwise white interior.
Whilst Keane has had an interior decorator attend to his restaurant, few changes are visible. The ghost chairs of The Showroom are still there, giving the restaurant a familiarity if one has been there before. White curtains separate the restaurant from the luxury car showroom next door, and help to protect oneself against its bright light. Noticeably, the counter is uncluttered, relative to its predecessor, and the chef, Stephen Kruger, previously working alongside Richard Carstens, is very clearly to be seen and willing to assist customers.
Keane grew up in Ireland, with a teacher father and principal mother, but says he was not a good scholar, and never wrote any exams. He did not do anything after finishing school, except fly around the world with a friend in that person’s private jet, partying for three years all over the world. Despite his lifestyle he did not have a cent to his name, he says. Returning to London, he was headhunted to become the social secretary of Oleg Deripaska, a close personal friend of Putin, Russia’s richest man, and 9th on the Forbes international billionaire’s list, with a worth of $ 40 billion prior to the credit crunch, created mainly from aluminium. Keane worked for him for a year, and rubbed shoulders with Silvio Berlusconi, Tony Blair, Putin and Roman Abramovich. A six-month stint working for an American hedge fund investor living in London followed. In this time he discovered Cape Town, and came to Cape Town regularly.
No matter how little money he had, Keane has never cooked food for himself, and has been eating out since he was 17, he says. “I have never cooked a meal in my life, and I have no fridge, and no ‘cooker’ in my home”, he says with pride. This has made him an astute restaurant-goer, who knows what he wants, and is not afraid to ask for it, and to express his dissatisfaction, having been thrown out of restaurants as a result.
His view on other local restaurants is interesting, and he has a few favourites - Bizerca is his top favourite, but he also rates the Foodbarn, Manna, and Table 13. He does not like La Colombe.
Opening a restaurant is something Keane feels he can do well. He is hands-on, changing a table cloth, welcoming guests arriving even later (the ambassador to the United Nations, who lives in the apartment block above the restaurant). He put the menu together himself, buying the best Italian cookbooks in London, and choosing recipes that he likes for his menu.
The prices are reasonable, with starters ranging from R 40 - R 85, pasta dishes at R 50 - R 85, mains mainly costing R 105, and desserts at R 40 each.
Generously Keane offers me a glass of Bruce’s Merlot, which is still in the restaurant. He is selling off the old Showroom wine stock, so that he can bring in new wines, as per Vaughn Johnson’s recommendation. He has the staff bring a platter of dessert samplers, including a pure pannacotta, a mint pannacotta, a delicious Lindt chocolate mousse cake, and an unusual tiramisu. The honey and mustard pork fillet is tasty, and I particularly liked the pumpkin and potato mash and green beans.
Portofino is Cormac Keane, and he is a most amusing host. He is who he is - cross him in his own space, and you stand the chance of being thrown out. Should he not be there, it may not be the same experience. He is irreverent, and a rebel, and has the confidence to believe in his new project and in himself, and to not have to compromise on what he is and what he wants from his staff and his clients. He feels like a friend already, something one does not experience in restaurants easily.
I felt at home at Portofino, and will definitely go back.
Portofino menu
Antipasti
Bruschetta x 3 – fresh tomato and basil, griddled courgettes and mint, chicken livers R55
Antipasti plate (for 2) – chilli salt squid, marinated vegetable rolls, Parma ham, salami, olives R85
Beef carpaccio – watercress, parmesan shavings, olive oil and lemon R 60
Melanzane all parmigiana – layers of griddled aubergine, mozzarella tomato, basil R45
Tuscan minestrone soup R45
Orange, almond, parmesan and goats cheese salad with lemon dressing R 45
Seasonal salad R 40
Pumpkin, goats cheese and pumpkin seeds salad with honey mustard dressing R 45
Pasta
Risotto of the day R75
Warm risone with pancetta, peas, asparagus, porcini mushrooms with truffle infusion R70
Fresh gnocchi of the day R60
Lasagna alla Bolognese R70
Spaghetti Carbonara R65
Broccoli and anchovy pasta R65
Penne Arrabbiata – fresh tomato and chilli R60
Butternut and ricotta ravioli with pine nut butter R55
Tagliatelle with fresh mussels R85
Mains
Veal parcel filled with pesto and buffalo mozzarella and ricotta and butternut stuffed ravioli R 105
Grilled fish of the day R105
Honey and mustard pork fillet – pumpkin and potato mash, green beans R 90
Lamb cutlets with rosemary jus – cannellini bean puree, vegetables R 105
Grilled baby chicken marinated in olive oil, garlic and chilli with baby pesto potatoes R 105
Desserts
Pistachio andalmond cake with yoghurt and honey sorbet and mint pannacotta
Homemade lemon tart with lemon ice cream
Ricotta and honey tart
Lindt Nemesis cake with honeycomb ice cream
Portofino Tiramisu
Selection of ice creams or sorbets
R40
Portofino Bar & Restaurant
Harbour Edge, 10 Hospital Street, Green Point
tel : 021 418 4500
info@portofinoct.co.za
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Bizerca, Bruce Robertson, Cape Town, Chris von Ulmenstein, Cormac Keane, David Kramer, La Colombe, Manna, Oleg Deripaska, Portofine, Putin, restaurant, Richard Carstens, Roman Abromovich, Silvio Berlusconi, Stephen Kruger, Table 13, The Showroom, Tony Blair, United Nations, Vaughn Johnson
Wed 10 Jun 2009
FEDHASA Cape, the hospitality association, appears to focus on the restaurants closing down on Cape Town, as opposed to saluting the new restaurants opening in these most difficult times. One of the new restaurants to open is The Quarter, the gourmet bunny-chow restaurant of Bruce Robertson, the previous owner of The Showroom, which closed in April.
FEDHASA has publicly listed restaurants that have not closed down when they went into liquidation, over-dramatising the severity of the effect of the recession on restaurants - Summerville in Camps Bay is one such example, which is alive and well and living!
Despite the recession, the hospitality industry has a lot to be grateful for - bookings are still rolling in for the summer months ahead, for World Cup 2010, and for the two British and Irish Lions’ rugby matches to be played in Cape Town on 13 and 23 June, ensuring that Cape Town will be full around these dates.
The restaurant industry has had it good for many years, and the number of new restaurants opening up is testimony to the fact that they have received good support from Capetonians. Those restaurants that are arrogant, that do not deliver good service, and that do not understand that value for money is key for customers, will feel the economic pinch. Cape Town has a seasonality problem, and guest houses led the way many years ago in reducing their rates by up to 50 % in the winter months. For the first time ever, restaurants are offering excellent winter specials. An e-mail doing the rounds lists 30 restaurants with winter specials. These include specials at Aubergine, Beluga, Bungalow, Cafe Caprice, Catharina’s, Five Flies, Myoga, Sinns, Pepenero, Tank, The Food Barn, The Kove, Tuscany Beach, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig, Cuvee, La Colombe, Terroir, Cape Colony and Salt.
Statements made by Rey Franco of FEDHASA are publicity opportunities for the four restaurants that he is the commercial manager of, rather than in providing a balanced view of the whole hospitality industry. They also do not offer advice as to how businesses in the hospitality industry can stay alive in this recession.
Tags: Aubergine, Beluga, Bruce Robertson, Buitenverwachting, Bungalow, Cafe Caprice, Camps Bay, Cape Colony, Cape Town, Catharina's, Constantia Uitsig, Cuvee, FEDHASA, Five Flies, hospitality industry, La Colombe, Lions' rugby tour, Myoga, pepenero, restaurants, Rey Franco, Salt, Sinns, Summerville, Tank, terroir, The Food Barn, The KOve, The Quarter, The Showroom, Tuscany Beach, World Cup 2010
Wed 3 Jun 2009
At the ‘Tribute to Topsi’ held on 18 May at the Barnyard Theatre in the Willowbridge Centre 500 foodie and Topsi lovers gathered together to “honour a doyenne and living legend of South African food and a wonderful human being”, and to collect funds for a knee replacement operation for her.
A jointly organised event by John Jackson of African Banquet Collections and the Chaine des Rotisseurs, in conjunction with the Franschhoek Lion’s Club, the evening had a strong Franschhoek presence, with many local residents attending the fabulous evening. The food was prepared and donated by leading restaurants including Le Quartier Francais, Bruce Robertson’s new The Quarter, Cellars Hohenhort, La Colombe and many more. Delectable wines were donated. Neil Els of Boschendal was the master of ceremonies and auctioneer.
A line-up of excellent performers, including Rocco de Villiers, Coenie de Villiers, Daniele Pascale, Elzabe Zietsman, boy group BRAVO and Nataniel entertained the appreciative crowd utilizing a very “gay-pink Liberace piano”, and dedicated their talent to Topsi. Nataniel brought the house down with his stories about his 30-year friendship with Topsi, and when he presented her with a rosary (“instead of rosemary”)!
Topsi was praised by speakers for her generosity, having given her dog away to an American tourist who asked her for the dog, and she gave away a diamond brooch because a friend complimented her on it. Topsi answered that she was as close to heaven on earth as she could be, with all the tributes spoken and sung to her whiles she is still alive, and wished her Franschhoek friend Di Gage, who died recently, could have enjoyed such a feast of appreciation too. Topsi was described as the “Madiba of cooking in South Africa”.
The who’s who of chefs attended the wonderful evening, and included Bruce Robertson, Pete Goffe-Wood, Bertus Basson, Camil Haas, Peter Veldsman, Marlene van der Westhuizen, Jenny Morris, Reuben Riffel, and Garth Stroebel.
This article was written by Chris von Ulmenstein, and was first published in the June 2009 issue of The Franschhoek Month.
Tags: Arican Banquet Collections, Barnyard Theatre, Bertus Basson, Boschendal, BRAVO, Bruce Robertson, Camil Haas, cellars Hohenhort, Chaine de Rotisseurs, Chris von Ulmenstein, Coenie de Villiers, Daniel Pascale, Elsabe Zietsman, Franschhoek Lion's Club, Garth Stroebel, Jenny Morris, John Jackson, La Colombe, Le Quartier Francais, Madiba, Marlene van der Westhuizen, Nataniel, Neil Els, Pete Goffe-Wood, Peter Veldsman, Reuben Riffel, Roco de Villiers, The Franschhoek Month, The Quarter, Topsi Venter, Willowbridge
Thu 21 May 2009
Posted by Chris von Ulmenstein under Cape Town, Restaurant news
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Jean-Pierre Rossouw, compiler of ‘Rossouw’s Restaurants’ guide, has just published his 2009 edition, and awarded 3-stars, his top rating, to 13 restaurants in the country.
The Cape-based 3-star restaurants, according to the Weekend Argus, are Aubergine, Bosman’s, Ile de Pain, Jardine, La Colombe, Magica Roma, Mariana’s, The Tasting Room , Rust & Vrede and Zachary’s. Other 3-star restaurants are Butcher Shop & Grill and Thomas Maxwell Bistro in Sandton, and Ritrovo in Pretoria.
Interesting omissions are Overture, the scenic restaurant of Bertus Basson on the Hidden Valley Estate and close to Rust & Vrede, and Terroir, outside Stellenbosch, both restaurants being on the Top Ten Eat Out list. In his previous edition, Rossouw was demeaning to Overture about its driveway being very steep, which is absolute nonsense, and should not have clouded his judgement of the restaurant!
Tags: Aubergine, Bertus Bssson, Bosmans, Butcher Shop & Grill, Eat Out Top Ten, Hidden Valley Estate, Ile de Pain, Jardine, Jean-Pierre Rosouw, La Colombe, Magica Roma, Mariana's, Overture, Ritrovo, Rossouw's Restaurants, Rust & Vrede, Stellenbosch, terroir, The Tasting Room, Thomas Maxwell Bistro, Zachary's