Entries tagged with “Bruce Robertson”.
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Mon 26 Jul 2010
Stellenbosch has always been top of the pops as far as its wine selection and quality goes (i.e. wines winning awards), but has played poor cousin to Franschhoek for many years when it comes to its restaurant status, that is until recently, when the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list included more Top 10 restaurants in Stellenbosch (Rust en Vrede, Overture and Terroir) than in Franschhoek (The Tasting Room and The Restaurant at Grande Provence). Stellenbosch has always been the best marketed collective wine region, and was the first to introduce the Wine Route concept, which has been adopted by most wine-growing regions now.
My visit to Stellenbosch last week, to experience recently opened restaurants, confirmed my view that Stellenbosch by rights now should be called the Gourmet Capital of South Africa, not only due to the Eat Out Top 10 listings, but also in terms of the newer restaurants bubbling under. I believe that the tourism authority should be ahead of the game, and introduce a Restaurant Route for Stellenbosch, given the wealth of its creative and gourmet talent. It is easy to see that opening good quality restaurants on wine estates is a growing trend in Stellenbosch, and is good for business, as Werner Els told me at Haskell Vineyards, its Long Table restaurant leading to wine sales from restaurant patrons.
My recommendation for the Stellenbosch Restaurant Route is the following, based on own experience and recommendations. It is not comprehensive. I have added links to the restaurant listings that I have reviewed, and reviews of the newer restaurants will be published shortly.
* Rust en Vrede - probably the best restaurant in the town currently, a slick operation, run by modest but talented chef David Higgs, on the Rust en Vrede wine estate. Featured on the Eat Out Top 10 list 2009 and 2010, number 74 on 50 Best Restaurants in the World 2010 list, and Top vineyard restaurant of 2010 Great Wine Capitals in the World - read the review here. Tel (021) 881-3881
* Overture - Chef Bertus Basson is a hard-working re-inventor of his menu and operation, always looking to improve his complete package. On the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list for 2009 and 2010. Fantastic views from the location on the Hidden Valley wine estate - read the review here. Tel (021) 880-2721
* Terroir does nothing for me, I must admit, and therefore I do not understand that it is a perennial on the Eat Out Top 10 list (2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 - the Terroir website does not list the awards after 2006, so some awards may have been left out!). I have been there a number of times, and have not been excited about its menu, restaurant interior, and service. The outside seating on the De Kleine Zalze wine and golf estate is great for a warm day. Tel (021) 880-8167
* Restaurant Christophe - Die Skuinshuis is the setting for this exceptional restaurant, Chef Christophe Dehosse being the hands-on owner and chef, who talks to his customers in his charming French accent, a rare treat in restaurants. The foie gras, served with toasted brioche, is to die for - read the review here. Tel. (021) 886-8763
* Delaire at Delaire Graff - no money was spared in building and decorating this restaurant and winery building, and it houses a most impressive art collection. Chef Christian Campbell is doing outstanding work, and his crayfish lasagne is exceptional. Turnover of staff has reduced the quality of service - read our review 1 and review 2. Tel (021) 885-8160
* Indochine at Delaire Graff - this is the newest Stellenbosch restaurant, and is relatively less opulent in its interior design compared to its sister restaurant. Young chef Jonathan Heath is a star to watch, and his Asian fusion menu is sure to attract the attention of the Eat Out Top 10 judges. He explains the menu, and the dishes when he serves them personally. The two course special at R225 sounds expensive, but it does not reflect the amuse bouche, sorbet and sweet treats (with cappuccino) one receives at no extra charge. The Tikka Duck Marsala starter is excellent - read our review. Tel (021) 885-8160
* Restaurant at Majeka House -the restaurant is overshadowed by the Boutique Hotel in terms of its branding, and is not known to most foodlovers, a hidden gem in Paradyskloof, a suburb opposite the Stellenbosch Golf Course. Its young Chef Anri Diener trained at Tokara and Delaire, and is a rising star, presenting exciting French cuisine. The Millefeuille of chocolate mousse served with coffee meringue bars is to die for - Read the review. Tel (021) 880-1512
* Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine - a mouthful of a brand name but also a mouthful in value and excellent quality, a far cry from Jardine, which he co-owns in Cape Town, but rarely still cooks at. It is set at the end of a long road, on the Jordan wine estate, overlooks a big pond and the beautiful Stellenbosch mountains in the far distance, teeming with birdlife. Interior functional, as in Cape Town. Most beautiful and unique ”bread” plate ever seen. Read the review. Tel (021) 881-3612
* The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe - set at the end of a long road up a hill, above Rust en Vrede, on the Haskell Vineyards (marketers of Haskell and Dombeya wines), the food of Chef Corli Els is a wonderful surprise. The restaurant interior and waiter service do not match the excellence of her food or the quality of the Haskell wines. The Papaya and Avo salad stands out as one of the special treats I enjoyed last week. Read the Review. Tel (021) 881-3746
* The Big Easy - set on Dorp Street with some parking, and owned by Ernie Els and Johan Rupert, the restaurant is large, but divided into different rooms, allowing private functions. Average food, below average service generally. Sweet Service Award. tel (021) 887-3462
* Warwick wine estate - owner Mike Ratcliffe is a good marketer, and his gourmet picnics, designed by Chef Bruce Robertson, and prepared by their chef Bruce, are a great hit in summer. Winter warmer foods available too - read the picnic review here. Tel (021) 884-3144
* Nook Eatery - has been operating for a year, and has developed a reputation for good value, healthy (organic where possible) and wholesome food. Restaurant location in ‘League of Glory’ TV series, and next door to Restaurant Christophe. Good value buffet lunch, Wednesday pizza evenings, and sweet treats throughout the day. Hands-on owners Luke and passionate Chef Jess do not open the Eatery if they are not there themselves. Read the review here. tel (021) 887-7703
* Tokara DeliCATessen - has a buffet lunch too, very large restaurant space combined with a deli, but service poor and food quality average - read the review here. Tel (021) 808-5950
* Eight at Spier - the menu was designed by Judy Badenhorst, ex-River Cafe, and now running the Casa Labia Cafe in Muizenberg. Have not read much about it, and not experienced yet. Tel (021) 809-1188
* Melissa’s on Dorp Street - a perennial favourite, with a limited menu and standardised across all the branches. Fresh and wholesome foods, service not always great. Sour Service Award Tel (021) 887-0000
* Wild Peacock Food Emporium on Piet Retief Street (ex Okasie) - this is the newest eatery to open, belongs to Sue Baker and is managed by ex-Rust en Vrede front of house manager and daughter Sarah, selling deli items, a range of cold meats, imported French and local cheese, fresh breads, and has a sit-down menu as well. Review to follow. Tel 082 697 0870
* Mila, The Cake Shop- this must be the tiniest eatery interior in Stellenbosch, next door to The Big Easy, but it is crammed full of the most delectable cakes and pastries. Service not great when sitting outside. Review to follow. Tel 074 354 2142.
* Cupcake - serves a range of cupcakes, but not as wide a variety as one would expect. Good sandwiches and cappuccino, pretty square with water feature in which to sit. No review written. Tel (021) 886-6376
* Bonthuys (guessing its name) - Etienne Bonthuys is due to open a restaurant in the old Dorp Street Teater building, opposite Cupcake, when the renovations have been completed - it is certain to be worth a visit, to see what a new space will do to the notoriously temperamental chef! Bonthuys appears to have served his last meal at the Tokara wine estate.
* Umami - set in the Black Horse Centre on Dorp Street, this restaurant had not wowed me, but serves satisfactory lunches and dinners. No review written, and I rarely hear anyone talk about it. Tel (021) 887-5204
* Wijnhuis - located on Andringa Street, in the vicinity of tourism outlets. Given its name, it should be very popular in this town, and given the connection to its namesake in Newlands, and its parental link to La Perla, it should offer a lot better food quality and service than it does. Not reviewed, and would not recommend. Tel (021) 887-5844
* Pane E Vino - this food and wine bar is hidden to those who do not come to Bosman’s Crossing. Owned by Elena Dalla Cia, husband George and father-in-law Giorgio do wine and grappa tastings in the restaurant too. Good Italian fare. Not reviewed yet. Tel (021) 883-8312
* Cafe Dijon - French-style bistro on Plein Street. One experience not satisfactory due to owner not being there. Rated by JP Rossouw of Rossouw’s Restaurants. Tel (021) 886-7023
* Bodega @Dornier - I have not been to this restaurant on the Dornier wine estate, and have not read any reviews yet. Tel (021) 880-0557
* Cuvee Restaurant, Simonsig - not tried. Not read any exciting reviews yet. Tel (021) 888-4932
* De Oude Bank Bakkerij, Church Street - newly opened, opposite Vida e Caffe, this artisan bakery and cafe allows one to order from a list of cold meats, cheese and preserves what one wants to eat with the breads they sell. No review yet. Tel (021) 883- 2188
* Tokara - Etienne Bonthuys has left Tokara, and Richard Carstens is said to be stepping in his shoes, when his contract with Chez d’Or in Franschhoek finishes in September. Tokara denied that Carstens is taking over the restaurant lease. It has now (30/7) been confirmed that Jardine’s Wilhelm Kuehn is taking over Tokara, and that Richard Carstens will be the Executive Chef, opening in October.
* Stellenbosch Slow Food Market, Oude Libertas - previously the Bosman’s Crossing Market, it moved to Oude Libertas late last year. Good quality and often organic foods, not quite as top level and exciting as in its previous location, only open on Saturdays.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Anri Diener, art collection, Black Horse Centre, Bodega@Dornier, Bonthuys, Bosman's Crossing, Boutique Hotel, brand name, Bruce Robertson, Cafe Dijon, Cape Town, Casa Labia Cafe, Chez d'Or, Christian Campbell, Corli Els, Cupcake, Cuvee Restaurant, De Kleine Zalze, De Oude Bank Bakkerij, Delaire, Delaire Graff, Die Skuinshuis, Dombeya, Dorp Street Teater, Eat Out Top 10 restaurant list, Eight, Elena Dalla Cia, Ernie Els, foie gras, Franschhoek, French cuisine, golf estate, Gourmet Capital of South Africa, gourmet picnic, Haskell Vineyards, Indochine, Jardine, Jardines, Johan Rupert, Jonathan Heath, Jordan's Restaurant with George Jardine, JP Rossouw, Judy Badenhorst, La Perla, Majeka House, Melissa's, Mila, Nook Eatery, Okasie, organic foods, Oude LIbertas, Overture, Pane e Vino, Paradyskloof, Restaurant at Grande Provence, Restaurant Christophe, Richard Carstens, Rossouw's Restaurants, Rust en Vrede, Simonsig, Sour Service Award, Spier, Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch Golf Course, Stellenbosch Restaurant Route, Stellenbosch Slow Food Market, Stellenbosch Wine Route, terroir, The Big Easy, The Cake Shop, The Long Table Restaurant and Cafe, The Tasting Room, Tokara, Tokara DeliCatEssen, Top 10 restaurants, Umami, Warwick, Werner Els, Wijnhuis, Wild Peacock Food Emporium, Wilhelm Kuehn, wine estates, wine marketing region, wine route, Wines
Tue 23 Feb 2010
The “Boozy Bloggers Picnic” at Warwick wine estate on Sunday was a disappointment in a number of respects, despite the bloggers (and other visitors) present having a good time on a perfect picnic Sunday.
WhaleTales has not written about wine estates much, except if they have restaurants on them. Warwick wine estate, on the R44 between Klapmuts and Stellenbosch, attracted attention because Chef Bruce Robertson, a previous Top 10 chef when he owned The Showroom, was contracted to put together the picnic at Warwick. When the invitation was received that bloggers were welcome to attend the picnic on Sunday, and that a generous special bloggers’ rate was offered, the booking was made immediately
Despite being a big fan of Chef Bruce, and enjoying meeting Warwick owner Mike Ratcliffe on the day, one left the picnic disappointed in that a golden opportunity had been lost by Warwick. Whilst the bloggers were on a special list, they were not told to sit in a defined section with other bloggers, so that they could get to know each other, and exchange information about this new medium. Not even Ratcliffe knew who the bloggers were and what they looked like. On a Big 5 wine safari drive during the afternoon, the Backsberg bloggers were on board, and at least one connection was made. Anel Grobler from @spitorswallow was also present, and came over to chat later in the afternoon. By this time Ratcliffe had left for his home already.
The vast picnic area is located around a dam, with lawns, and a section with tables under trees, as well as private “picnic pods”, resembling birdwatching ‘houses’, so one has a good choice. Unfortunately one is not told where one can or should sit. Also unfortunate is that one cannot see vines from the picnic area at all, so it feels less like a wine farm when one is there. When one goes on the drive there is no mistaking that Warwick is a wine farm.
The picnic is a little higgeldy-piggeldy, much like the character of the wine estate. The building houses the wine tasting section when one enters, and here the dissonance begins. On the right is a beautiful modern wine cooling “cabinet”, with glass and modern white shelving. In the middle of the room, along the wall, is a ‘mature’ wooden shelf with wine related gadgets for sale. Behind the ordinary wooden counter the wines are sold. It is a long room, not well filled, with wasted space at the back end of it. One walks through to the picnic section, and there is another ordinary looking counter, with a table behind it, filled with the picnics. It is a vast room, with a single table with things to sell, lost in the open space. A decor hand is clearly missing in this venue, all is functional but not particularly attractive.
Given this decor, a ‘gourmet’ picnic concept for this wine estate is ill-matched. One gets the feeling that the staff are very friendly, but things are not well organised. Time is a commodity the staff have, but maybe not their guests. The staff are still putting things together for the picnics when one arrives, even though they have taken bookings for them in advance. One pays and receives a most unusual “picnic basket”, nothing like one has ever seen before. A bottle of water is sold as is a cold drink, but no glasses are provided. No attempt is made to sell one a bottle of wine with the picnic - is that not what the picnic is all about? The wine sales department is in the first room, so the two departments do not marry their services and sales. The sweet picnic lady tells us that it is the first day that the guests have to collect their picnics - previously they were brought to the tables. Perhaps the former method would have caused less of a queue at the collection point.
We sit at a table under the trees, in what is meant to be the bloggers’ section, but see no one familiar, not that a list of names has been provided. We unpack our picnic: it has been cleverly put together in a stacked fashion, with two boards, one plastic and one wooden, a baguette wrapped in a massive “Warwick News”, a box of treats, a table cloth, and plates and cutlery, with a silver handle that clips underneath the boards, making one able to carry everything. The tablecloths are brightly coloured (ours a grass green polka dot). The cutlery is ‘green”, being biodegradable, made from “a starched (sic) based bioplastic”.
The box of treats contains the food in little plastic and cardboard boxes, and it is a treat to open them to see what is inside: a delicious “Bruce’s ‘lekker’ biltong and brandy pate”, hummus with peppadew coulis, a small camembert, charcuterie (2 tiny slices of smoked something), poached chicken breast with truffle mayo (chicken tastes bland, but interestingly cut in tiny round slices), “frikkadelle” with tomato bredie (not out of the ordinary), “tabouli” - a green salad with couscous sprinkles (difficult to eat), baby potato salad with yummy mayo), “maketaan” - a yummy watermelon and ginger preserve, a box of Maynards wine gums, and a ‘death by chocolate’ brownie (not very special). The most gourmet out of all this is the biltong pate. The food is more wacky than gourmet, and is enough. We hear bloggers mutter about the price of R 150 per head. The pink paper menu is not of a “gourmet” standard.
We buy a bottle of wine (we would have loved a Rose with the picnic, but Warwick only does a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc on the light side), but receive no ice bucket on a 30+ C day. No staff come to the tables at all, to sell us more to drink. When we do see some, and call them over, they look at us in surprise that we could ask them for another bottle of water and for an ice bucket. But it is brought to the table. Do not expect any proactive service from the staff.
Verdict - Warwick is sooo laid back, that it does itself a disservice in not focusing on its wine sales. We left the wine estate knowing little more about Warwicks’ wines (except that there are 5 varieties planted on the farm, hence the Big 5 Landrover drives they do). The newspaper wrapped around the baguette was placed under the boards for later reading, and was cleared by the staff before one could think of reading it - it is massive, and one is more interested in the contents of the boxes than in the newspaper at that stage.
Great concept, but on the wrong wine estate, in that its design does not reflect “designer” nor “gourmet”, normally associated with Chef Bruce Robertson. Very child-friendly, and the kids get their own picnic box. Mike Ratcliffe is a very nice owner, and he came to check on us regularly, and very friendly staff. Very clean and modern bathroom, which is commendable. A lost opportunity by Warwick, in getting bloggers together and connected, the prime reason for them coming. A lost marketing opportunity in that the paper menu does not have contact details nor the web address if one wanted to book again or tell others about it.
Warwick wine estate, R44, Stellenbosch, tel 021 884-3144. www.warwickwine.com Twitter @mikeratcliffe
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: @spitorswallow, Backsberg, Big 5 wine safari, biodegradable, bloggers, Bruce Robertson, chardonnay, Chris von Ulmenstein, gourmet picnic, Maynards gums, Mike Racliffe, picnic, sauvignon blanc, Stellenbosch, The Showroom, Warwick wine estate, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Tue 22 Dec 2009
Cape Town and its surrounding towns are seeing a flood of restaurant openings and relaunches, to such an extent that one wonders how they, and all the existing restaurants, will be full when the Festive Season is over.
New restaurants that have opened recently are the following:
* Kuzina is a Greek restaurant in the Cape Quarter, which opened last weekend
* Salt Deli opens later this week, in the space that was Carlucci’s in Bantry Bay, across the road from the Ambassador Hotel and its Salt restaurant. Its interior is Stefan Antoni designed, with an eclectic flooring mix of slate, wood and tiles, and an eyecatching desk which looks like a pile of wood. It has a staircase to an upper level, and the deli will serve oysters and bubbly.
* Eight has just opened at Spier outside Stellenbosch
* Waterkloof restaurant opened 2 weeks ago at Waterkloof wine estate in Somerset West - read our review here
* Vaudeville opened as a supper club in the city center a week ago - its show is outstanding, but it needs work on the menu and food preparation - read our review here
* The Grand on the Beach has only recently received its liquor licence, and is fully booked for dinners 2 weeks ahead. Lunch bookings can be made more quickly. The newest of the three Grand Cafe’s, it is located on the beach between the Water Club in Granger Bay and the V&A Waterfront.
* Truth.coffeecult is a new coffee shop and roastery, and has opened in the hard-to-find Prestwich Memorial center on the corner of Somerset and Buitengracht Streets, owned by David Donde
* Warwick’s gourmet picnics, designed by chef Bruce Robertson, opened at the beginning of the month on Warwick wine estate outside Stellenbosch
* Jardine at Jordan opened on the Jordan wine estate outside Stellenbosch at the end of last month
* Camil’s opened in the Cape Royale Luxury Hotel in Green Point last month - read the review here
* DeliCATessen has opened at Tokara wine estate in the Helshoogte Pass, and is owned by Tokara owner GT Ferreira’s daughter
* Cafe Chic is a new French-style restaurant in a beautifully renovated and chic building on Breda Street in Gardens. Read the review here
* Bistro 1682 has opened at Steenberg wine estate in Constantia.
Restaurant relaunches include the following:
* Sapphire is a new bar serving snacks, redecorated and renamed from the previous Baraza, next to Blues in Camps Bay
* St Yves is the new nightclub in the place of Ignite in Camps Bay, above Pepper Club on the Beach
* Pepper Club on the Beach is the new restaurant previously called Summerville in Camps Bay, above Paranga. It is linked to the Pepper Club, a hotel/apartment block opening in the city centre (on Pepper Street) in February. It will offer Pepper Club hotel clients changing rooms, when they return from the Camps Bay beach. Dinner Dance ”in the tradition of grand Old Hollywood” is offered on Friday and Saturday evenings. The Group Executive Chef is Michelin-starred Carsten Kocke, who has 30 years of experience in Germany. The menu contains a selection of starters such as Avocado Ritz (R 79) and Lobster Cocktail (R 98); crayfish, prawn and avocado, and Caesar salads; seafood dishes such as salmon, calamari, and prawns; steaks at around R 120 for 200 grams - R 165 for the beef fillet, as well as ostrich game, curry, and duck; pasta dishes ranging from R 70 - R 189; and desserts.
* The Raj in Camps Bay has taken over from where the Gateway to India restaurant was in The Promenade in Camps Bay, taking over the furnishings of the restaurant as well. The Raj has sister restaurants in Johannesburg.
Other restaurant news is the following:
* Top 10 Eat Out chef Jacques de Jager is moving to Salt restaurant at the Ambassador Hotel in January, leaving Grand Provence just 2 months after winning the Top 10 accolade. This is the second time that a chef has left Grande Provence soon after winning the Top 10 award - Peter Tempelhoff left even sooner after his win in 2007, joining the McGrath Hotel Collection.
* Table 13, a lovely breakfast and lunch venue inside the T & Co furniture and deco shop across the road from the Green Point Traffic department, is offering a 3-course dinner and a glass of bubbly for R 170, for the first time, tonight and tomorrow night. They serve all day breakfasts, and lovely home-made lunches. Tel 021 418-0739
* Overture has started its Le Piqnique picnics at Hidden Valley wine estate outside Stellenbosch.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Ambassador Hotel, Barraza, Bistro 1682, Bruce Robertson, Cafe Chic, Camil's, Camps Bay, Cape Town, Carlucci's, Carsten Kocke, Chris von Ulmenstein, David Donde, DeliCATessen, Eat Out Top 10, Eight, Gateway to India, Hidden Valley, Jacques de Jager, Jardine at Jordan, Kuzina, McGrath Collection, Overture Le Piqnique, Pepper Club on the Beach, Peter Tempelhoff, Salt deli, Salt restaurant, Sapphire, St Ives, Stefan Antoni, Summerville, T & Co, Table 13, The Grand at the Beach, The Raj, The Slug and Lettuce, Truth, Vaudeville, Warwick gourmet picnics, Waterkloof, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Mon 19 Oct 2009
The Cape Town restaurant scene has been buzzing this month, with a number of new restaurants opening, and an e-mail exchange creating the biggest restaurant stir ever experienced in the city.
The opening of the Cape Quarter extension on Somerset Road in De Waterkant has seen two restaurants open in the centre to date: Cru Cafe, a restaurant which has created “its own terroir” in the centre, says director Elsie Pells, in serving a selection of 150 wines hand-picked by Pells, a Cape Wine Master. Voila, an all day breakfast and light meal restaurant, owned by the owners of Wakame, is a friendly addition, with cakes, muffins, croissants, fudge, toffee apples and many more treats prepared on site. A clever touch is that glass domes presenting the treats are placed upon stacks of cookery books! Downstairs, at the entrance, is an Andiamo Espresso, which is a sister coffee shop to the one in the original Cape Quarter, but on a very much reduced scale, only selling coffee, ice creams, juices, sandwiches and muffins. It belongs to the same owners as the amazing Spar Gourmet Food Store at the entrance to the center. Vanilla will open at the end of the month, and is owned by father and son duo Nigel and Simon Newhouse from Tuscany Beach in Camps Bay. It will be the lead restaurant in this centre, with 180 diners catered for on two levels. The chef Evan Coosner worked at Reuben’s and Ginja previously. Kuzina - Greekooking, LAZARI, and BICCCS (Bread, Ice Cream, Cakes, Coffee, Croissants, Sandwiches) are restaurants still set to open in the centre. To celebrate its opening, the Cape Quarter has organised a Food & Brandy Festival on 13 and 14 November, with Giggling Gourmet Jenny Morris, in conjunction with the Alchemy of Gold (Klipdrift, Flight of the Fish Eagle, Oude Meester, Nederburg, Uitkyk and Van Ryn’s brandies), talking and preparing food all day long.
The talk and tweet of the town has been an e-mail exchange between Cormac Keane, owner of new restaurant Portofino, and a client, who cancelled a 5 pm dinner reservation one hour before time of arrival. Keane expressed his frustration to the client in no uncertain terms and with true Irish directness. The client was not happy with the replies he received from Portofino, and made contact with some websites that had written favourable reviews of the restaurant, including WhaleTales. He also sent it to a hip website called 2oceansvibe, which decided to post the e-mail exchange on its blog, leading to an outburst of mainly critical and at times extremely crass and defamatory attacks against Keane. On the other hand, many readers of the exchange admired Keane for standing up to an inconsiderate customer, and lauded him for his bold and direct stand. The end result: the customer has gone into hiding, and has requested that his name be deleted from the exchange on the 2oceansvibe website. For Portofino, it has meant a fully booked restaurant ever since the e-mail exchange was circulated around the city, reinforcing that there is no such thing as bad publicity! The WhaleTales’ review of Portofino, which was written shortly after Portofino opened, was offered as a link in some of the website comments, and the review attracted more than 2000 readers in the past week, a record readership. A vindictive customer tried to show up what he felt was a rude restaurateur, and got more than he bargained for. Instead of spreading the word to prevent others from going to Portofino, he has done the restaurant the best possible favour by creating wide-spread exposure for it, a bonus for a restaurant which only opened 6 weeks ago, and now has become the best known restaurant in town! Portofino is not the first restaurant to have told a customer to not return: Le Quartier Francais, Carne, Beluga and Sevruga are known to have done so too! Carne and Le Quartier Francais are finalists for the Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant awards, and it begs the question whether such poor restaurant customer care should make them eligible for such a sought-after award.
Another restaurant that is on the Eat Out Top 10 restaurant shortlist is The Roundhouse in Camps Bay, which has demonstrated its arrogance almost since its inception, stating at the outset that its goal is to become the best restaurant in Africa. A response of the owner Fasie Malherbe to a customer comment on the Eat Out website is a scary reflection of what one might encounter at this ‘Big Brother’ restaurant: “every guest that has ever walked through our door and dined with us is on record to the extent that I will outline your exact time of arrival, what you ate, what you drank as aperitif’s, digestif’s wine that was served to you, the guests comments made on each dish, positive or negative feedback, special dietry (sic) requirements, the guest interaction between staff is noted, what car you drove, whether you smoked or not, how many times you went to the restroom and any other details that we could use to ensure that when you return that we may ensure consistency in offering or if you have complaints as we have here that we have all our ducks in a row and can learn from the ordeal”!
Bruce Robertson, the previous owner of The Showroom, which is where Portofino is now located, has confirmed that the Franschhoek restaurant that he is consulting on is that of La Motte, which is due to open in May. The wine estate has just opened its new tasting room. Robertson is also working with Warwick wine estate outside Stellenbosch on their gourmet picnic offering, which will be available from 1 December. Robertson is also a gourmet food tour guide now, and he led the editor and 8 readers of USA foodie magazine Bon Appetit around the culinary delights of the Cape, including Reuben preparing a meal at Boekenhoutskloof in Franschhoek; a winepairing dinner at Grand Roche with Cederberg Wines; a malas tasting at Paul Cluver matched to organic farm foods; a seafood braai paired with Hamilton-Russell wines at Birkenhead in Hermanus, with the Southern Right whales frolicking in the ocean as a backdrop; and an interactive Cape Malay cooking demonstration with Cass Abrahams and paired with L’Omarins wines.
OYO, the restaurant in the V&A Hotel in the Waterfront, is offering a crayfish special at R 185 for 500 grams. A choice of hot or cold crayfish is offered. Sister restaurant SALT at the Ambassador Hotel in Bantry Bay is also offering this special.
Alle’e Bleue wine estate has opened its beautiful top class winetasting room, and has a new outside courtyard restaurant seating about 80 linked to it, serving only five options: Flammkuchen, Bobotie, a cheese platter, a chicken/spinach salad and a mixed grill.
Delaire Graff has made three changes after only being open for four months: its prices have increased, its staff have changed, losing their exceptional Maitre’d, and their menu has changed. Read a report on the latest visit here.
New Italian restaurant Alla Posta is to open at 51 Kloof Street shortly. It will not only offer Italian delicacies, but also Italian furniture, decor and books, and show Italian movies.
Two new restaurants are set to open in Franschhoek soon, both owned by one of Franschhoek’s largest retail and hospitality landowners Robert Maingard. In the old station building once hosting the Tourism Bureau, a sports bar is set to open, while a creperie should have opened a few months ago already close to the Huguenot Fine Chocolate shop. A Franschhoek branch of Gelato Mania, which already exists on Somerset Road, in Green Point, opened recently and is tucked away alongside Col’Cacchio.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 2oceansvibe, Alchemy of Gold, Alla Posta, Allee Bleue, Ambassador Hotel, Andiamo Espresso, Beluga, BICCCS, Boekenhoutskloof, Bon Appetit, Bruce Robertson, Camps Bay, Cape Malay, Cape Quarter extension, Cape Town, Cape Wine Master, Carne, Cass Abrahams, Cederberg, Chris von Ulmenstein, Col'Cacchio, Cormac Keane, crayfish, creperie, Cru Cafe, Delaire Graff, Elsie Pells, Fasie Malherbe, Flight of the Fish Eagle, Franschhoek, Gelato Mania, Ginja, gourmet picnics, Grande Roche, Hamilton-Russell, Huguenot Fine Chocolate shop, Jenny Morris, Klipdrift, Klipsdrift, Kuzina - Greekooking, La Motte, LAZARI, Le Quarteir Francais, Nederburg, Oude Meester, OYO, Paul Cluver, Portofino, Prudential Eat Out Top 10 restaurant awards, restaurants, Reubens, Robert Maingard, Salt, Sevruga, southern right whales, Spar Gourmet Food Store, The Roundhouse, The Showroom, Tuscany Beach, Uitkyk, V&A Hotel, Van Ryn's, Vanilla, Voila, Wakame, Warwick wine estate, Waterfront, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Tue 22 Sep 2009
More restaurant opening and movement news continues to reach WhaleTales.
Klein Genot is ending its relationship with Mark Radnay, of the Overture partnership with Top 10 chef Bertus Basson, after a one-year marriage, due to the restaurant not being financially viable, says Basson. Angie Diamond, the owner of the luxury 5-star Klein Genot boutique hotel and winery called WhaleTales to say that she is taking over the Genot restaurant, with a name refinement to Genot Restaurant Cigar Bar, from 1 November, and is celebrating the opening with a Frank Sinatra tribute evening on 5 November, and a jazz evening on 6 November. Diamond says her new restaurant model is Baia, the upmarket seafood restaurant in the V & A Waterfront, but at far reduced prices. Starters range in price from R 38 for sardines to R 68 for parma ham and melon, with mussel and prawn starters costing R 58. Salads average R 48, and the fish main courses range between R 78 for the calamari and sole to R 98 for baby kingklip. Meat dishes range from R 78 for a spatchcock chicken to R 138 for rack of lamb. Pasta dishes are available at R 48 - 58, and desserts cost R 48 each. Live music will be offered on Friday and Saturday evenings. The restaurant is also offering a new service to guest houses, with complimentary transfers to the restaurant. Genot is also offering picnic baskets, to be enjoyed at 20 picnic spots along the riverbank of the wine estate.
Overture restaurant on the Hidden Valley wine estate outside Stellenbosch is going from strength to strength, and chef Bertus Basson says a younger more affluent clientele is booking at the restaurant. A sommelier starts at Overture at the beginning of October. The sister catering company has been awarded the catering for all events at Lourensford, and will be moving its operation to the Somerset West wine estate.
Chef Bruce Robertson has revealed that two of his current restaurant consulting projects are for two hotels managed by Queensgate Holdings. The Upper East Side Hotel is opening as a 4-star conference hotel in Woodstock in May 2010, and Robertson is setting up a 260-seater restaurant and kitchen. He is also setting up the 160-seater restaurant and kitchen for the hotel Queensgate is opening in Pearl House on Adderley Street, Furthermore, Robertson is setting up a gourmet picnic service at Warwick Estate in November, according to a recent tweet from Mike Ratcliffe (”Gourmet picnic project with Chef Bruce Robertson taking shape”). About the Franschhoek restaurant that he is helping to set up, Robertson is staying mum, only revealing that it is on a wine estate. Robertson has also become a gourmet tour guide, and has teamed up with Bon Appetit magazine and Ryan Hilton from AdmiralityTravel to bring tour groups from the USA to South Africa, with Robertson taking them to unusual gourmet highlights, including slowfood, outstanding herb gardens, wine biodiversity, and cooking for his guests.
More than seventy restaurants received 2010 American Express Platinum Fine Dining Awards this month, 13 of these going to new restaurants winners, reports TravelWires. The new restaurant winners in the Western Cape include Bizerca, Gold, Salt, The Pavilion in Hermanus, Grande Provence, and Rust en Vrede. Those from other parts of the country, receiving the Awards for the first time, include Mastrantonio, Osteria Tre Nonni, Sel et Poivre, Harvey’s, Roma Revolving Restaurant, and Orange. The Award winners are judged on the basis of cuisine, service, wine list, decor, ambiance and overall excellence and consistency. Standards are checked regularly, says American Express.
The Caviar Group of restaurants, which already includes Beluga and Sevruga, as well as the Caviar deli in the V & A Waterfront, is opening its first non-caviar named restaurant, to be called Blonde. Its newsletter is keeping the location of the new restaurant a secret, but hints at the decor and style as follows: it will be a 120-seater restaurant offering ‘fine-dining cuisine’, and will only be open in the evenings. It is in a Victorian building, it has a ’seductive interior of bar and lounge’, it has ’couches covered in rich fabrics, the gorgeous wooden floors and high ceilings, to the crisp white linen, designer chairs, beautiful staircase, and romantic balcony” They gush on : “One thing’s for sure. Blonde will be in a class of its own. We love Blonde!” It refers one to the website www.blondedining.co.za for more information, but there is none! Caviar’s design agency Malossol has tweeted on Twitter that they are currently designing a Caviar “group menu”, which means that Blonde could be opening soon.
Ginja restaurant, currently located off Buitengracht Street, in a building which has not benefited the image of the restaurant, and once a national top 10 restaurant, is said to move to the building in which Nova restaurant was, on New Union Street in the City Bowl.
George Jardine of Jardines is said to be opening the new restaurant on Jordan Wine Estate in Stellenbosch, and to be moving to the Winelands, for a lifestyle change.
Allee Bleue’s plans to open a fine dining restaurant lower down on the Franschhoek estate appear to be on ice, due to the economic climate. However, construction work on its second informal restaurant linked to its wine tasting venue, adjacent to the security entrance, is almost complete.
Few details are available about the restaurant which is opening at La Motte wine estate. About ten days ago Hein Koegelenberg, the owner, posted the following blog post: “Construction of La Motte’s restaurant and art gallery is coming along nicely on the grounds of the estate in Franschhoek….A bridge will connect the restaurant and the tasting room. Whilst the team …is working hard to build the structure, other teams are equally busy to make sure that the restaurant and gallery are going to be world class and offer unforgettable experiences”.
Reuben and Maryke Riffel’s baby daughter Latika was born last Monday. Congratulations go to them from all at Whale Cottage.
DoppioZero in Main Road, Green Point, has an impressive decor, with the luxury of space. It has opened a bakery in the restaurant, with breads, rolls, croissants, cakes and other sweet treats for sale. The franchisor was hands-on in the restaurant last weekend, serving customers, and checking customer satisfaction, to ensure the success of this newest restaurant in the franchise chain, having opened less than 2 weeks ago. An interesting and clever service offered by the restaurant is a “mess-bib”, Doppio branded, which is put around patrons eating pasta or any dishes with a sauce.
New restaurant Le Tique opens in the Sugar Hotel on Main Road in Green Point tomorrow. Restaurant-lovers can pay R 250 each to attend the opening. “Entice yourself with the finest gourmet from the earliest renaissance, contemporary twisted, French with a hint of European Influences. Featuring South Africa’s Finest Venison. Platinum wines of this worlds, proudly South African viticulture. Bellini’s & cocktails to lure your fantasies” is the copy contained in the invitation.
Basil O’Hagan, whose O’Hagan’s pub chain was liquidated 8 years ago, is reinventing himself and has launched a new pub and restaurant chain called Brazen Head, with 23 pubs planned for the greater Cape Town area in the next ten years, including the city center, Hermanus, Paarl, Somerset West, George, Knysna, and Tygervalley. An outlet is already trading in Stellenbosch, reports Cape Business News, and other Brazen Head pubs are already operating in Gauteng.
Bukhara was to have re-opened its restaurant in Burg Street, but the person answering the call yesterday said that there is no opening date in sight yet, it probably being another 2 - 3 weeks. Bukhara is doing renovations and repairwork after a fire caused damage in the restaurant some time ago. A restricted Bukhara menu is available at Haiku, the sister restaurant downstairs from Bukhara.
Late casualties of the credit crunch are Aqua D’or and the Franschhoek Water Company, both of which have closed down. The Franschhoek Water Company was the supplier of the L’Aubade and Franschhoek mineral water brands. Earlier this year the Franschhoek Water Company had handed over the distribution of its water brands to Aqua D’or, but took the distribution back when customers complained about the poor service from Aqua D’or. NOTE: SINCE THIS POST WAS WRITTEN, AQUAD’OR HAVE CONTACTED WHALETALES TO DENY THEIR CLOSURE. THE INFORMATION OF THE CLOSURE WAS INDUSTRY TALK, AND WHEN THE COMPANY WAS CALLED FOR CONFIRMATION, THE SALES AND ADMIN DEPARTMENT LINES JUST RANG, WHICH WAS TAKEN AS A CONFIRMATION OF THE CLOSURE OF THE COMPANY. EARLIER THIS YEAR AQUA D’OR FACED PROVISIONAL LIQUIDATION. WE APOLOGISE TO AQUA D’OR FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE WHICH THIS POST MAY HAVE CREATED.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 2010 American Express Platinum Fine Dining Awards, Admirality Travel, Allee Bleue, Aqua D'or, Baia, bakery, Basil O'Hagan, Beluga, Bertus Basson, Bizerca, Blonde, Bon Appetit, Brazen Head pub and restaurant, Bruce Robertson, Bukhara, Caviar deli, Caviar Group of restaurants, Chris von Ulmenstein, credit crunch, Doppio Zero Green Point, Franschhoek, Franschhoek Water Company, Genot, Genot Restaurant Cigar Bar, George Jardine, Ginja, Gold, Grande Provence, Haiku, Harvey's, Jordan wine estate, Klein Genot, L'Aubade, Le Tique, Lourensford, Malossol, Mark Radnay, Mastrantonio, mess-bib, mineral water, Nova, Orange, Osteria Tre Nonni, Overture, Pearl House, picnic baskets, Queensgate Holdings, restaurant, Roma Revolving Restaurant, Rust & Vrede, Salt, Sel et Poivre, Sevruga, Sugar Hotel, The Pavilion in Hermanus, Upper East Side Hotel, V & A Waterfront, V&A Waterfront, Warwick wine estate, Whale Cottage Portfolio, wine estate, Winelands, Woodstock
Mon 14 Sep 2009
Following on from the restaurant opening news posted on the WhaleTales blog less than a week ago, more restaurant opening (and temporary closing) news has reached WhaleTales.
Reuben Riffel, who opened a small 30-seater restaurant in Robertson last month, has two new babies up his sleeve - he and his wife Maryke are expecting the birth of their first child in the next week. He is also planning his next restaurant opening, in the old Pippin farmstall building at the entrance to Franschhoek, alongside the Franschhoek Cellars, focusing on steaks. Reuben’s has a new attractively designed menu, in A3 size, listing his starters (expensive in ranging from R 58 - R 75), mains ranging from R 89 - R 145, and desserts expensive in ranging between R 50 - R 70. Interestingly, his new menu has a listing of the who’s who cooking in the kitchen, with Reuben listed as the “Concept chef”, and his executive chef as William Carolissen, his commis chefs as Luzette Riffel and Lizel Blanckenberg, and his pastry chef as Corien Hattingh. Unfortunately this can only mean that Reuben will be less likely to be in the kitchen himself. The duck liver starter especially, but also the calf’s liver main course, were excellent last night, and the service good. The only complaint was that a vintage of Lynx wine by the glass stated on the winelist was no longer available, and the waiter did not inform the customers about this. He was ready to pour a younger vintage without communication.
Adrian Buchanan, who was the chef at Monneaux restaurant at the Franschhoek Country House for many years, has recently opened a restaurant with two partners at Freedom Hill Country Restaurant on the road between Paarl and Franschhoek, near the Wemmershoek Dam.
In Franschhoek Allee Bleue will be a space to watch, with ambitious plans for two further restaurants to open on the estate in the summer, in addition to its Bistro. The estate has re-opened for weekend dinners and brunches. It has also just introduced picnics 7 days a week, at R 145 per head, with delicacies such as avocado ritz, snoek pate, roast beef, and chocolate mousse.
The Bombay Bicycle Club, which has a namesake in London, but is no relation, opened recently where Amigos used to be at the top of Kloof Street in the City Bowl, and Richard Griffin, previous owner of the liquidated Madame Zingara, is one of the partners. The opening and his involvement have been very low key. The restaurant is booked out up to 3 weeks ahead over weekends, yet has received less than favourable feedback on restaurant review websites.
Chenin has opened as a restaurant and a wine bar where The Nose Bar used to be in the Cape Quarter, with chef Daniel Heyns, previously with Zevenwacht and ZeroNineThreeTwo, reports EatOut.
In Sea Point, two restaurants have opened: La Boheme on Main Road, and Duchess of Wisbeach, on Wisbeach Road. Reviews will be posted on the WhaleTales blog shortly.
Not much is known yet about the projects that chef Bruce Robertson is consulting on, but they are said to be a new restaurant each in Woodstock and in Franschhoek.
Just six days ago, WhaleTales wrote how the financial shenanigans of Conrad Gallagher had affected the business of Bouillabaisse and Crepe Suzette in the Rockwell Center in De Waterkant. Its unfortunate location, in being hidden from view from Somerset Road, and the demise of the promised epicurean food market in the Centre, severly impacted on the business of the two restaurants, with the Main Ingredient newsletter just 2 weeks ago writing a denial by Bouillabaisse that it was closing down in Cape Town. Today the restaurant sent an e-mail to its database, to say that both restaurants have closed in Cape Town, and are relocating to an undisclosed address in Cape Town, re-opening in November. The Bouillabaisse website also carries the news, and the restaurants’ telephone rings through to a Telkom answering service.
Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Add new tag, Adrian Buchanan, Allee Bleue, Bistro, Bombay Bicycle, Bouillabaisse, Bruce Robertson, Cape Quarter, Chenin, commis chef, Concept chef, Conrad Gallagher, Crepe Suzette, Duchess of Wisbeach, executive chef, Franschhoek, Franschhoek Country House, Freedom Hill, La Boheme, Lynx, Madame Zingara, Main Ingredient, Monneaux, Paarl, pastry chef, picnics, restaurants, Reuben Riffel, Reubens, Robertson, Rockwell Centre, Rust & Vrede, Sea Point, steak restaurant, Stellenbosch, The Nose Bar, WhaleTales, wine estate, winelist, Woodstock, Zevenwacht
Tue 8 Sep 2009
Restaurant closures seem to have ground to a halt, the last being the final liquidation of celebrity chef Conrad Gallagher’s Geisha Wok in the Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, and his Sundance coffee shops. His departure from Cape Town and his shady business dealings have also influenced the operation of Crepe Suzette and Bouillabaisse in the Rockwell Centre in De Waterkant, which opened on the basis of Gallagher setting up an Epicurean Food Market on the ground floor, around the two new restaurants. This deal fell flat earlier this year already, just as the restaurants were moving into the building.
Last month Reuben Riffel opened his second Reuben’s restaurant, in the new Small Hotel in Robertson. Nook is the cutest ’cosy eatery that specialises in homemade pastries, cakes, sandwiches and a wide variety of daily specials’, that also opened last month in Stellenbosch’s Van Reyneveld Street, where the Greek Kitchen used to be. The owners Luke and Jessica are young, and this is their first restaurant venture. They are refreshing in the way they connect with their clients, and understand customer relationships.
Last week Portofino opened where the Showroom used to be in De Waterkant, by fun and hands-on owner Cormac Keane with chef Stephen Kruger, previously working with Richard Carstens, in the kitchen. See the review on this blog.
Yesterday the 12th branch of Doppio Zero opened on Somerset Road, Green Point, in a lovely renovated Victorian building with modern lighting, and is fantastically positioned opposite the Green Point stadium. Doppio Zero is a franchise operation, which has an impressive website that is upfront about what the company stands for. Its promise is “to consistently deliver beyond your expectations”. The company’s vision is to be a “leader in our industry and in the market in which we trade, and to imprint the Doppio experience in the culture of our guests.” Its mission is to ensure that guest satisfaction is “number 1″, to offer staff growth opportunities, to offer uncompromising best quality food, service and people, to develop lasting relationships with guests, to continuously improve, and to make a “fair profit.” Its values are passion and enthusiasm, integrity and honesty, an unconditional commitment to the brand, and individual responsibility and accountability. These are strong words, and one hopes that the company can keep its promises, especially as they are stated so publicly.
Bruce Robertson’s Showroom Cafe and The Quarter on Long Street are doing well, and he was bubbling last week about four restaurant openings he is consulting on, all scheduled for October. October also sees the opening of Vanilla, owned by the Newhouse father and son duo from Tuscany Beach in Camps Bay, in the new Cape Quarter building on Somerset Road. Cru Cafe will also open in the center.
Kathy and Gary Jordan from Jordan Wines in Stellenbosch will also open a restaurant for light lunches in October, on their wine estate, reports The Sunday Independent. Critically, they comment:”Too many people chase Michelin stars, but I am not a fan of that system. To win those stars, you have to throw away your food from one sitting, and start again in the evening. To me, it is just a waste. It adds a huge cost to the restaurant bill. Almost all the food rejected is still perfectly good. I can’t stand seeing food wasted.” Their restaurant will “offer simple, well-cooked, wholesome food”. The Jordans are co-owners of the High Timber restaurant in London, with Neleen Strauss, and “a significant percentage” of the 40 000 wines in the restaurant are Jordan wines.
The Waterkloof wine estate in Somerset West, which belongs to one of the largest wine importers in the UK, Paul Boutinot, and who calls himself the “Custodian” of the wine estate, according to its website, will open its restaurant in November, with chef Gregory Czarnecki in the kitchen and Julian Smith from Grande Provence managing the restaurant. Czarnecki was previously at The BIg Easy in Stellenbosch, the restaurant belonging to Johan Rupert and Ernie Els, amongst others, and left when he was expected to cook hamburgers, it is said. He worked with 3*** Michelin chef Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton. Waterkloof’s website states that it makes ’slow wines’, with fermentation taking place between one to eleven months instead of the usual 20 days, and it would be excellent if its new restaurant embodies “slow food”.
Little has been said or written about maze and Nobu locally lately, and one wonders what the effect of the poor reviews Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants in the UK got in the 2010 edition of The Harden’s restaurant guide will be on the local restaurant in the OneandOnly Cape Town hotel. According to a report in the Daily Mail, the guide has placed four of Ramsays’ restaurants on the “10 most disappointing restaurants” list. Three of the restaurants also featured on the ‘most overpriced’ list. The author of the guide, Richard Harden, said of maze and of Ramsay that it is suffering from “imperial over-reach” and feels that ‘it has deep-seated problems’. Harden continues about Ramsay: ”He wants to be an international film star and be accorded Beckham levels of international fame yet he wants to run this internationally recognised group of restaurants.” Ramsay’s profits fell by 90 %, according to the report, in the last year, and received negative feedback when it was discovered that some of his restaurants serve mass-produced food, prepared off-site and delivered to the restaurants.
Word about Stellenbosch town is that Etienne Bonthuys will not be at Tokara restaurant in the Helshoogte Pass for much longer. He is opening up a new restaurant in Stellenbosch later this year, it is rumoured. No doubt Tokara owner GT Ferriera will look for a heavyweight chef to counteract the competition from Delaire Graff across the road.
A late-comer to social media marketing is Le Quartier Francais, which announced with fanfare that it was starting a blog at the beginning of this month. It has only posted two posts, of which one has already been removed again. Perhaps the owner does not know that a blog needs a dedicated commitment to regular posting to be credible and to help with search engine optimisation.
Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: 'slow food', 'slow wines', Add new tag, Alain Senderens, Beckham, Big Easy, Bouillabaisse, Bruce Robertson, Cape Quarter, Cape Royale Luxury Hotel, Conrad Gallagher, Cormac Keane, Crepe Suzette, Cru Cafe, Delaire Graff, Doppio Zero, Emile Bonthuis, Ernie Els, Geisha Wok, Gordon Ramsay, Greek Kitchen, Green Point Stadium, Gregory Czarnecki, GT Ferreira, Harden's guide 2010, High Timber, Johan Rupert, Jordan wines, Kathy and Gary Jordan, Le Quartier Francais, Lucas Carton, maaaze, Michelin, Newhouse, Nobu, Nook, One&Only Cape Town, Portofino restaurant, restaurants, Reuben Riffel, Reubens, Richard Carstens, Richard Harden, Robertson Small Hotel, Rockwell Centre, Showroom Cafe, Stellenbosch, Stephen Kruger, Sundance, The Quarter, Tokara, Vanulla, Waterkloof wine estate, Whale Cottage Portfolio, wine estate
Sat 5 Sep 2009
A week ago I heard about Portofino opening in the ex-Showroom space at a dinner party, and all I could find out was that an unknown Irish 30-something, with no previous restaurant experience, by the name of Cormac Keane, was opening the restaurant. I googled his name, and there were no entries for him. I bumped into Vaughn Johnson, and he told me that he is doing Portofino’s winelist. The opening date was vague, being sometime this week.
On Thursday evening I drove by, coming from a concert close by, at 10 pm. The security guard assured me that the restaurant was open. I went in, unsure if it had indeed opened, and whether I would be welcomed at that time of night. The door was opened by Keane himself, and I received a most hearty welcome. He was intrigued about what I had heard about him, and sat down to chat, sharing some of his story with me. I noticed his red sneakers immediately and told him that they reminded me of David Kramer’s red velskoens, but he had not heard of Kramer. The shoes stand out in the otherwise white interior.
Whilst Keane has had an interior decorator attend to his restaurant, few changes are visible. The ghost chairs of The Showroom are still there, giving the restaurant a familiarity if one has been there before. White curtains separate the restaurant from the luxury car showroom next door, and help to protect oneself against its bright light. Noticeably, the counter is uncluttered, relative to its predecessor, and the chef, Stephen Kruger, previously working alongside Richard Carstens, is very clearly to be seen and willing to assist customers.
Keane grew up in Ireland, with a teacher father and principal mother, but says he was not a good scholar, and never wrote any exams. He did not do anything after finishing school, except fly around the world with a friend in that person’s private jet, partying for three years all over the world. Despite his lifestyle he did not have a cent to his name, he says. Returning to London, he was headhunted to become the social secretary of Oleg Deripaska, a close personal friend of Putin, Russia’s richest man, and 9th on the Forbes international billionaire’s list, with a worth of $ 40 billion prior to the credit crunch, created mainly from aluminium. Keane worked for him for a year, and rubbed shoulders with Silvio Berlusconi, Tony Blair, Putin and Roman Abramovich. A six-month stint working for an American hedge fund investor living in London followed. In this time he discovered Cape Town, and came to Cape Town regularly.
No matter how little money he had, Keane has never cooked food for himself, and has been eating out since he was 17, he says. “I have never cooked a meal in my life, and I have no fridge, and no ‘cooker’ in my home”, he says with pride. This has made him an astute restaurant-goer, who knows what he wants, and is not afraid to ask for it, and to express his dissatisfaction, having been thrown out of restaurants as a result.
His view on other local restaurants is interesting, and he has a few favourites - Bizerca is his top favourite, but he also rates the Foodbarn, Manna, and Table 13. He does not like La Colombe.
Opening a restaurant is something Keane feels he can do well. He is hands-on, changing a table cloth, welcoming guests arriving even later (the ambassador to the United Nations, who lives in the apartment block above the restaurant). He put the menu together himself, buying the best Italian cookbooks in London, and choosing recipes that he likes for his menu.
The prices are reasonable, with starters ranging from R 40 - R 85, pasta dishes at R 50 - R 85, mains mainly costing R 105, and desserts at R 40 each.
Generously Keane offers me a glass of Bruce’s Merlot, which is still in the restaurant. He is selling off the old Showroom wine stock, so that he can bring in new wines, as per Vaughn Johnson’s recommendation. He has the staff bring a platter of dessert samplers, including a pure pannacotta, a mint pannacotta, a delicious Lindt chocolate mousse cake, and an unusual tiramisu. The honey and mustard pork fillet is tasty, and I particularly liked the pumpkin and potato mash and green beans.
Portofino is Cormac Keane, and he is a most amusing host. He is who he is - cross him in his own space, and you stand the chance of being thrown out. Should he not be there, it may not be the same experience. He is irreverent, and a rebel, and has the confidence to believe in his new project and in himself, and to not have to compromise on what he is and what he wants from his staff and his clients. He feels like a friend already, something one does not experience in restaurants easily.
I felt at home at Portofino, and will definitely go back.
Portofino menu
Antipasti
Bruschetta x 3 – fresh tomato and basil, griddled courgettes and mint, chicken livers R55
Antipasti plate (for 2) – chilli salt squid, marinated vegetable rolls, Parma ham, salami, olives R85
Beef carpaccio – watercress, parmesan shavings, olive oil and lemon R 60
Melanzane all parmigiana – layers of griddled aubergine, mozzarella tomato, basil R45
Tuscan minestrone soup R45
Orange, almond, parmesan and goats cheese salad with lemon dressing R 45
Seasonal salad R 40
Pumpkin, goats cheese and pumpkin seeds salad with honey mustard dressing R 45
Pasta
Risotto of the day R75
Warm risone with pancetta, peas, asparagus, porcini mushrooms with truffle infusion R70
Fresh gnocchi of the day R60
Lasagna alla Bolognese R70
Spaghetti Carbonara R65
Broccoli and anchovy pasta R65
Penne Arrabbiata – fresh tomato and chilli R60
Butternut and ricotta ravioli with pine nut butter R55
Tagliatelle with fresh mussels R85
Mains
Veal parcel filled with pesto and buffalo mozzarella and ricotta and butternut stuffed ravioli R 105
Grilled fish of the day R105
Honey and mustard pork fillet – pumpkin and potato mash, green beans R 90
Lamb cutlets with rosemary jus – cannellini bean puree, vegetables R 105
Grilled baby chicken marinated in olive oil, garlic and chilli with baby pesto potatoes R 105
Desserts
Pistachio andalmond cake with yoghurt and honey sorbet and mint pannacotta
Homemade lemon tart with lemon ice cream
Ricotta and honey tart
Lindt Nemesis cake with honeycomb ice cream
Portofino Tiramisu
Selection of ice creams or sorbets
R40
Portofino Bar & Restaurant
Harbour Edge, 10 Hospital Street, Green Point
tel : 021 418 4500
info@portofinoct.co.za
POSTSCRIPT: Portofino closed its doors on 10 April 2010.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com
Tags: Bizerca, Bruce Robertson, Cape Town, Chris von Ulmenstein, Cormac Keane, David Kramer, La Colombe, Manna, Oleg Deripaska, Portofine, Putin, restaurant, Richard Carstens, Roman Abromovich, Silvio Berlusconi, Stephen Kruger, Table 13, The Showroom, Tony Blair, United Nations, Vaughn Johnson
Mon 6 Jul 2009
Good news for Cape Town food lovers is that the restaurant closures trend seems to have stopped, and is being reversed by new restaurants opening up.
The most interesting of the new restaurant openings is The Quarter, a gourmet bunny-chow restaurant owned by Bruce Robertson, previously of The Showroom.. Located at 44 Long Street, underneath The New Space Theatre, The Quarter is more of a take-out than sit-down restaurant, due to its small size, but is not for the faint-hearted. Robertson has glass jars quirkily “decorating” his restaurant, containing various food types preserved in glass jars, including octopus, crayfish, and the most off-putting of all, a de-skinned rabbit.
The New Space Theatre building also has the popular Italian style Anytime, Boo Radleys and Union at St Stephens Church connected to it.
The Eastern Food Bazaar has opened in the old Wellington Fruitgrower’s building, on the corner of Darling and Adderley Streets, and serves value-for-money Indian foods. It is taking Cape Town by storm.
Sadly, the latest restaurant to close is Nova, off New Church Street in Cape Town. Chef Richard Carstens has been a Top 10 restaurant chef. Nova tried to appeal to guest houses to visit the restaurant, offering them a special discount, instead of inviting these owners to experience the restaurant with their compliments. In Hermanus too, the excellent Joubert closed on 3 July. The chef and owner says he is just not able to keep the restaurant alive financially, and is looking for a job.
Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com.
Tags: Anytime, Boo Radleys, Bruce Robertson, bunny chow, Cape Town, Eastern Food Bazaar, Indian food, Joubert, Nova, Richard Carstens, The New Space Theatre, The Quarter, The Showroom, Wellington Fruitgrowers, Whale Cottage Portfolio
Wed 10 Jun 2009
FEDHASA Cape, the hospitality association, appears to focus on the restaurants closing down on Cape Town, as opposed to saluting the new restaurants opening in these most difficult times. One of the new restaurants to open is The Quarter, the gourmet bunny-chow restaurant of Bruce Robertson, the previous owner of The Showroom, which closed in April.
FEDHASA has publicly listed restaurants that have not closed down when they went into liquidation, over-dramatising the severity of the effect of the recession on restaurants - Summerville in Camps Bay is one such example, which is alive and well and living!
Despite the recession, the hospitality industry has a lot to be grateful for - bookings are still rolling in for the summer months ahead, for World Cup 2010, and for the two British and Irish Lions’ rugby matches to be played in Cape Town on 13 and 23 June, ensuring that Cape Town will be full around these dates.
The restaurant industry has had it good for many years, and the number of new restaurants opening up is testimony to the fact that they have received good support from Capetonians. Those restaurants that are arrogant, that do not deliver good service, and that do not understand that value for money is key for customers, will feel the economic pinch. Cape Town has a seasonality problem, and guest houses led the way many years ago in reducing their rates by up to 50 % in the winter months. For the first time ever, restaurants are offering excellent winter specials. An e-mail doing the rounds lists 30 restaurants with winter specials. These include specials at Aubergine, Beluga, Bungalow, Cafe Caprice, Catharina’s, Five Flies, Myoga, Sinns, Pepenero, Tank, The Food Barn, The Kove, Tuscany Beach, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig, Cuvee, La Colombe, Terroir, Cape Colony and Salt.
Statements made by Rey Franco of FEDHASA are publicity opportunities for the four restaurants that he is the commercial manager of, rather than in providing a balanced view of the whole hospitality industry. They also do not offer advice as to how businesses in the hospitality industry can stay alive in this recession.
Tags: Aubergine, Beluga, Bruce Robertson, Buitenverwachting, Bungalow, Cafe Caprice, Camps Bay, Cape Colony, Cape Town, Catharina's, Constantia Uitsig, Cuvee, FEDHASA, Five Flies, hospitality industry, La Colombe, Lions' rugby tour, Myoga, pepenero, restaurants, Rey Franco, Salt, Sinns, Summerville, Tank, terroir, The Food Barn, The KOve, The Quarter, The Showroom, Tuscany Beach, World Cup 2010