El Bulli was the world’s top S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants for a number of years, and its chef/owner Ferran Adria has been saluted as one of the world’s most creative chefs, who closed his restaurant near Roses in Spain for a number of months every year, to try out new recipes in Barcelona. Whilst he will close down his restaurant for an undefined period later this year, he remains a cuisine guru. For Tokara chef Richard Carstens Adria has been an icon chef, and Chef Richard has been following and has been inspired by Adria since 1999, buying Adria’s recipe books that he publishes annually, yet he has never eaten at El Bulli. After an invitation to try out Tokara’s new winter menu on Tuesday, I could not help but associate Tokara with El Bulli, and Chef Richard with Ferran Adria, always searching for a higher level of cuisine creativity.
Chef Richard showed me the five volume ‘Modernist Cuisine’, which he bought recently, and is edited by Nathan Myhrvold from America. This chef was an academic wizard, worked for Stephen Hawking and Microsoft, and moved into cuisine, one of his passions. The books document the newest ideas and techniques in cuisine, being modern interpretations of classical cuisine. Chef Richard described the movements in cuisine, from Auguste Escoffier, to Nouvelle Cuisine, to Deconstruction (now renamed Techno-Emotional, Chef Richard told me!) led by Adria, to Modernist Cuisine. Adria was the first chef to blur the definition between savoury and sweet, by creating savoury ice creams, for example.
Chef Richard has received six Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant awards in his career, whilst he was at Le Provencal (previous name of Grande Provence), Bijoux and Lynton Hall, and may have had more, had he stayed at past restaurants for longer than a year. He seems really happy and at home at Tokara, having been given the freedom to experiment and create, whilst serving food that the Tokara guests appreciate. Tokara Restaurant owner Wilhelm Kuhn wrote about Chef Richard: “Richard is a supremely talented chef and a real inspiration to the chefs in the kitchen. I haven’t met such a nurturing, creative and intelligent chef before. A lot of things that some chefs have cottoned on to recently, he was doing more than 10 years ago. He has an encyclopediac knowledge of food, techniques and the industry, local and international. It was overdue that someone gave him a chance to really show his mettle. I am sure he’ll be as much part of Tokara’s legacy as Etienne Bonthuys before him and winemaker Miles Mossop.”
I visited Tokara just after Kuhn and Carstens took over Tokara in October last year, and it was good to see that there were familiar waiters from then, and from Jardine, which Kuhn closed down in February. It being a cold wintry day, I was happy to sit at the table close to the massive fireplace. In the past few months the restaurant has had a make-over in terms of a new carpet, softening the sound in the room and the interior, and the chairs have been upholstered in an attractive blue fabric. Each of the chairs has the name of a wine cultivar on it, bringing the wine estate into the restaurant. New lights have been added too. Wooden tables and chairs fill the restaurant, and I liked the design of the half-round tables placed against the glass doors, seating couples. There is no table cloth, but material serviettes, Eetrite cutlery and good stemware. The Tokara tasting room is in the same building, a large room with a massive fireplace, that was buzzing with tasters. The cloakrooms are shared with the tasting room, and are a modern combination of stainless steel basins set in wood.
In the tasting room a specially designed William Kentridge drawing for his “The Magic Flute” opera and Tokara wine series hangs over a display of Tokara wines. In the restaurant a Kentridge tapestry called ‘The Porter and the Bicycle’, inspired by the Second World War and hence the map of Europe forming the background to the tapestry, Manager Johan Terblanche explained, dominates the interior, the only artwork in the main restaurant. It was specially made for Tokara owner GT Ferreira. A Jacqueline Crewe-Brown painting is in the second room, and a second is to come. Art is an important part of Tokara Winery, and they regularly exhibit art made from wine. An extensive collection of art is displayed in the passages leading to the restaurant and tasting room, and even in the cloakrooms. At the entrance to the building, a fascinating tree-shaped ‘sculpture’ attracts attention, a modern statement of what is lying inside the building.
Chef Richard came to welcome me at the table, and had prepared a special 10-course menu of small dishes to try, consisting of some of the starters, main courses and desserts on his new winter menu. He told me that he and his team try to take the menus one step higher. He invited me to come to the kitchen at any time, to see him and his team prepare the dishes, which offer I took up, and immediately another little dish of smoked salmon ice cream topped with caviar and served with a colourful citrus salsa was made for me to try. After the restaurant re-opens after a week’s break from 2 – 9 May, a Chef’s Menu will be introduced, consisting of three courses plus an amuse bouche and a palate cleanser, at an excellent price of R 225 (their 8-course degustation menu cost R400 in summer).
Staff look neat in white shirts and black pants. They exude efficiency and all are knowledgeable about Chef Richard’s dishes, one needing a good memory to remember all the ingredients that make up his masterpieces. Even Jaap-Henk Koelewijn, the sommelier, was perfectly at ease in explaining what was in the dishes that he brought to the table, helping the waiter Ivan on occasion. I made Jaap-Henk’s job difficult, in limiting my wine drinking over lunch, and stating my preference for Shiraz. He started me off with a Tokara Zondernaam Shiraz 2009, and told me that the ‘Zondernaam’ will be phased out in future vintages, due to the improved quality of the winemaking, and all wines will be marketed under the Tokara name in future. The wine was chilled to 16°C, quite cold for a red wine I felt, but Jaap-Henk explained that a colder temperature helps to temper the tannins in a red wine. This was followed up with a Sequillo Shiraz and Grenache blend, made by Eben Sadie.
I started with a beautifully presented and colourful hot butternut soup, thick and creamy, and served in a glass bowl, to which Chef Richard had added a smoked snoek croquette, which gave the soup an unusual distinctive taste. To this he had added shaved almonds and salted apricots, and drizzled it with coriander oil. On the winter menu this starter costs R60. This was followed by a calamari risotto, and its lemon velouté came through distinctly to enhance the calamari. It costs R65 as a starter, and was decorated with rice crisps and toasted brioche that had been dyed black with squid ink. A beautiful autumn-inspired dish contained beetroot, and leek which had been dyed a reddish colour using beetroot juice. It contained a number of interesting ingredients, including a Gewürztraminer-poached pear, gorgonzola balls, a ball each of yellow pepper and beetroot sorbet, pear compressed into small squares, and hazelnut. This starter costs R65 on the winter menu.
Another starter dish, costing R75 on the winter menu, was a chicken, crisp pancetta and prawn stack, served with an egg prepared at 62°C to get the white of the egg to set whilst keeping the yolk runny. It also contained almonds, and was served with a Spanish Sofrito smoked paprika sauce. This is a cold starter. So too was the starter of fig, teriyake glazed tofu, goat’s cheese, orange slices, hazelnuts and a tatsoi sauce. This starter does not appear on the winter menu, but was very popular on the summer menu, Chef Richard said. A palate cleanser of rose geranium sorbet (surprisingly white but tasting heavenly, more subtle in taste than that at Dash restaurant) and a pickled ginger sorbet (surprisingly pink) was a refreshing break on my culinary journey.
The first main course was a herb-crusted rainbow trout served on mash and wilted spinach, courgette and pine kernels, with a lovely violet beurre rouge, which costs R120 as a main course on the winter menu. As the eighth course, I could not finish all of the peppered springbok, which Chef Richard said he sources from Graaff Reinet, and this is one of his best sellers, costing R155. It was served on parsnip purée, with beetroot and croquettes, decorated with slices of plum, and served with an hibiscus jus.
The desserts were too delicious to refuse, and I had a wonderful strong cappuccino (R20) made from Deluxe coffee with each. The first dessert had no colour at all other than white, unusual given Chef Richard’s colourful dishes that had preceded the desserts. It consisted of a refreshing lemon mousse, mascarpone mousse, white chocolate sorbet, pieces of white chocolate and of meringue, and an almond financier, a type of sponge, cut into blocks. It costs R50 on the winter menu. The final course was a dessert (R55) made with hazelnut ice cream, pistachio sponge, aerated chocolate, coulant (a mini chocolate fondant), honeycomb and hazelnut streusel. As if there was not enough food already, the cappuccino was served with a coconut chocolate and two mini-meringues held together with chocolate.
The winelist and the menu are both presented in beautiful small black leather-covered holders, with the Ferreira family crest on them. The winelist states that BYO is not allowed. Cigars and cocktails are offered, as are 100 wines. Wines by the glass include Colmant Brut (R55/R290), Graham Beck Brut Rosé (R85/R430), Pol Roger Brut (R180/R890), and Sterhuis Blanc de Blanc (R50/R250). Seven red wines are offered by the glass, ranging from R60 for Hartenberg Merlot 2008 to R125 for Raats Cabernet Franc 2008. Tokara Zondernaam Cabernet Sauvignon (2008) and Shiraz (2009) cost R35. Ten white wines by the glass include seven Tokara ones, including Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, ranging in price from R25 – R55. Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé costs R1500, its Elisabeth Salmon 1996 R3000, and its Clos Saint Hilaire 1998 R7000. Steenberg 1682 Brut costs R290. Five Shiraz choices are offered, starting at R135 for Tokara Zondernaam 2009, to R1400 for Hartenberg’s Gravel Hill 2005. French wines dominate the imported wine section, with 38 choices, ranging from R600 for Château Margaux 1996, to R8500 for two wines: Chambertin Armand Rosseau 1995, and Le Musigny Comte George de Vogue 1995.
The only downside of the lunch was the number of noisy children running around, despite the menu not catering for children at all – half-portions of the linefish of the day and of steak are served with chips for children. I was impressed with the tolerance and patience shown to the children by the waiters, when stepping into the fireplace, for example.
Chef Richard Carstens is a definite Eat Out Top 10 Restaurant contender for 2011. He is constantly reinventing himself, not happy to just stay with one cuisine style, but looking to challenge himself and his menu regularly. He is hungry for new knowledge and inspiration, finding it in music, in fashion, in nature, and in books. His food is colourful, and incredible attention is paid to creating a dish consisting of a number of unusual elements, many of them having undergone prior work to add to the palette on the plate. When I first visited the new Tokara in October, Chef Richard sent out a carpaccio as an amuse bouche, and my son and I struggled to identify what it was made from, having quite a wild taste – we could not believe that it was made from watermelon, an idea that he had picked up from Mugaritz, now third ranked on the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, but that he had executed completely differently. Chef Richard has a passion for his craft, commendable from a chef who has been around for longer than most in the Cape, and it shows in his creative cuisine. I felt very privileged to have been invited by him to try his new winter menu.
Tokara Restaurant, Tokara Winery, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch, Tel (021) 885-2550. www.tokararestaurant.co.za (The website is disappointing for a top restaurant, only containing the address, telephone number, and Facebook and Twitter links. There is no menu, no winelist nor Image Gallery. Twitter: @Tokara_ @RichardCarstens. Tuesday – Sunday lunch, Tuesday – Saturday dinner.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: www.whalecottage.com Twitter: @WhaleCottage